New Hearthstone Clydesdale - best thermometer placement?

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jpl1nh

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 25, 2007
1,595
Newfields NH
Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.
 
Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.

We used to have a magnetic mount temp gauge next to the draft bolt on top. Just left the warming grill off. Now we have a digital gauge with the sensor held down by part of the draft bolt. Allows us to have the warming grill back on.
 
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Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.

As you can see from the photo, I have an Omega, 0 to 700 degrees F, thermometer, leaning up against the flue collar - more or less. No mater where you place any temperature measuring device, all measurements are going to be relative. I put the Omega where it is just to avoid over-firing Clyde. I try to keep the indicated temperature under 500 degrees F. I don't overload Clyde - I never pack it to the gills - just enough to keep the house (2000 sf ranch) comfy. And then I adjust the air control so that Clyde is not burning too hot. I close the air down substantially to get a longer burn. I burn very dry wood - most of my wood has been drying for four years. So I get very little material when I clean the liner.

I have to be careful about running Clyde when it gets too cold ( I think that it hit -10F last night) because my plumbing runs under my floors in a crawl space. We have no basement. What we do have is laval rock. When Clyde is burning, the thermostats don't call for heat from my forced-air natural gas furnace. The leakage from my forced-air ductwork keeps my plumbing from freezing. So in more temperate conditions, I use Clyde to keep the gas bills low. Clyde's heat is very comfortable - much more so than forced-air.

Good Luck and have great 2017.
 

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We used to have a magnetic mount temp gauge next to the draft bolt on top. Just left the warming grill off. Now we have a digital gauge with the sensor held down by part of the draft bolt. Allows us to have the warming grill back on.
That sounds like a good set up. I must say the stove is incredibly easy to use. I'm not sure how necessary a thermometer is.
 
As you can see from the photo, I have an Omega, 0 to 700 degrees F, thermometer, leaning up against the flue collar - more or less. No mater where you place any temperature measuring device, all measurements are going to be relative. I put the Omega where it is just to avoid over-firing Clyde. I try to keep the indicated temperature under 500 degrees F. I don't overload Clyde - I never pack it to the gills - just enough to keep the house (2000 sf ranch) comfy. And then I adjust the air control so that Clyde is not burning too hot. I close the air down substantially to get a longer burn. I burn very dry wood - most of my wood has been drying for four years. So I get very little material when I clean the liner.

I have to be careful about running Clyde when it gets too cold ( I think that it hit -10F last night) because my plumbing runs under my floors in a crawl space. We have no basement. What we do have is laval rock. When Clyde is burning, the thermostats don't call for heat from my forced-air natural gas furnace. The leakage from my forced-air ductwork keeps my plumbing from freezing. So in more temperate conditions, I use Clyde to keep the gas bills low. Clyde's heat is very comfortable - much more so than forced-air.

Good Luck and have great 2017.
We have a large well insulated house with a fairly unique open concept floor plan. I'm guessing this can cut our heating bill at least in half if we use it all the time. I was running a Woodstock Keystone before and I brought about 6 cords of wood with me when we moved to the new house. This stove I think will run better on thicker pieces of wood than the Keystone liked so I suspect we'll be reloading a bit more often than necessary until we get to wood cut and split for the Clydesdale. Gotta burn dry wood, that is key! Most of mine is probably at least 3 years dry, perhaps some pine and red maple might be two but you are so correct. DRY wood, thanks for your input.
 
That sounds like a good set up. I must say the stove is incredibly easy to use. I'm not sure how necessary a thermometer is.

I really like the alarm feature that alerts us when we forget about the stove and it hits 600 degrees!
 
Like said before take you readings near the front by the draft bolt under the warming grill and dry wood is always a good idea. I am using a PID and a thermocouple off EB total cost less then $30 it also has an alarm feature and can control external devices. I also have another thermocouple inserted in the flue behind the stove and use that alarm set at 900°f. This setup has worked well. Don't be afraid of stuffing the stove to the air tube station, the Clydesdale is very forgiving I have had it over 700°f but try to operate under 600°f to help prevent the gaskets between the section from failing prematurely.