Need help choosing the right stove for me

[RoseB]

Hi all! I’m new here. Pretty new to wood heating as well.
Just bought a house in Eastern Quebec, by the St. Laurence River. Winter will get down to -30 Celsius with high winds.
House was built in the mid 90’. There is already a JA Roby wood stove in the basement (late 2000 I guess). I would like to upgrade the whole thing.
House dimensions are 29’ x 29’ (basement, main floor and second floor). Chimney is approximately 30’ high and runs outside the house in a closed box, probably not so well insulated. I know this is not ideal.
Heat will come up through staircase. Would like to maximize wood heating but I have electric baseboards if needed.
Looking for a stove that will give maximum heat. Don’t care if the basement gets a bit too hot. I won’t spend time there.
I have read different threads here. But I am a bit confused. Which stove would give maximum heat and long burn.
Was looking at BK Princess, PE Summit LE, Enerzone Solution 3.5. Price tags are quite different. Not sure if high price range is worthed.
Have I skipped some other interesting models? How should I choose the right one for my house?
I might forget some important details. If so, please ask.
Thanks for your valuable advice.

 

[begreen]

It might be good to try it out for a season as long as it's in good condition. If this is the J.A. Roby Ultimate, it's about the largest firebox available with a 6" flue. Check the label on the back of the stove to identify.
Often the best heating for main and second floors is done with a stove on the main floor. Would it be possible to add one on the main floor and keep the basement stove for those extra cold days?

Note that any stove is going to need fully seasoned firewood to perform well. Poorly seasoned wood can make the best stove seem anemic.

 

[RoseB]

Unfortunately , there is no possibility to add one on the main floor.
I want to get the maximum from the actual setup even if it’s not ideal, I really understand your point though.
Yes, it’s the Ultimate.
I have hardwood cut in winter two years ago.

 

[stoveliker]

Do you have walk-in access to the basement? It'll get old to walk down the stairs with fire wood.

For a basement stove, if the current one does work, leave it. That's the cheapest option.
See how you like burning, the work and cleaning it entails before investing. You're not looking at the thing anyway if you don't spend time there.

If you do decide to replace the basement stove, burn time is tough to discuss - but what is clear is that the largest firebox volume gets you the longest burn at the same heat output per hour.

 

[RoseB]

Do you have walk-in access to the basement? It'll get old to walk down the stairs with fire wood.

For a basement stove, if the current one does work, leave it. That's the cheapest option.
See how you like burning, the work and cleaning it entails before investing. You're not looking at the thing anyway if you don't spend time there.

If you do decide to replace the basement stove, burn time is tough to discuss - but what is clear is that the largest firebox volume gets you the longest burn at the same heat output per hour.

Thanks for your input. In the attached garage, there is trap on the floor that leads to a room beneath to pile the firewood. Interesting setup. So firewood is already stored at the basement level. In a non heated section.
I should have been more specific about my wood burning experience. I do have a Regency insert in the house I am leaving. I have burned 7 hardwood cords last winter. But I have zero experience with a stove.
For sure I could try that J.A. Roby for this coming winter and see how I like it.
But I was wondering if there is more efficient models out there that would provide more heat, less consumption, longer burning time. I guess I can’t have it all. Trying to figure out the right balance.

 

[RoseB]

It might be good to try it out for a season as long as it's in good condition. If this is the J.A. Roby Ultimate, it's about the largest firebox available with a 6" flue. Check the label on the back of the stove to identify.
Often the best heating for main and second floors is done with a stove on the main floor. Would it be possible to add one on the main floor and keep the basement stove for those extra cold days?

Note that any stove is going to need fully seasoned firewood to perform well. Poorly seasoned wood can make the best stove seem anemic.

Sorry , I have now found the reply button so I’ll replicate my answer here.
Thanks for your input.
Unfortunately , there is no possibility to add one on the main floor.
I want to get the maximum from the actual chimney setup even if it’s not ideal. I really understand your point though.
Yes, it’s the Ultimate. I could ask some technician to come verify the unit. I know the previous owners were heating a lot.
I have hardwood that was cut down in winter two years ago.

 

[stoveliker]

A insert is basically the same as a free standing stove, but with a different suit on.
I.e. if you'd buy a Regency free standing stove you'd be handling it exactly the same as your previous insert.

 

[RoseB]

A insert is basically the same as a free standing stove, but with a different suit on.
I.e. if you'd buy a Regency free standing stove you'd be handling it exactly the same as your previous insert.

You have a good point, thanks for the perspective.
I really liked the Regency insert, much more than the Vermont Casting Montpelier I had previously, which I disliked badly.
I was able to get great heat output from the Regency but the burning time was not that great.
I will have a look at the Regency stoves.
Which stove on the market would give the biggest heat output with the longest burning time?

 

[stoveliker]

The one with the largest belly; biggest heat and long times means a lot of BTUs need to be stuffed into it in the form of wood.
So the largest stove.
begreen noted that the one you have is about the largest (for a 6" flue). And he knows this much better than I do.

The point is that there will be stoves that have far longer burning times. But given the fixed amount of wood BTUs one can put in them, that means those longer times will be at a lower BTU per hour rate. I.e. a 3.5 cubic foot box gets you xx hours burning hot/high. There may be a 3.5 cubic ft stove that can burn twice as long, but that necessarily means it'll be at half the output per hour. Stoves don't magically make BTUs appear out of thin air - they appear out of wood only...

It is advisable to keep the 6" flue as many more options are available for that size than for an 8" flue. Although 8" flues generally are needed for even larger stoves. I think there's a large Buck stove, there is a large Blaze King stove (though these are not known for their large high-end output), and there may be a few others (is there a Regency on an 8" flue?).
However, you see the list is short.
And replacing the current flue with 8" stuff is expensive - and thus limits future options if the new 8"-flue'd stove you hypothetically get either dies or is not satisfying.

So it seems you can't do much better in terms of heat output and duration than with the thing you have there - if you stay with 6".

 

[begreen]

The JA Roby has about the same size usable capacity as the Enerzone 3.5. It's a modern efficient stove. Member @joop has been running one for about a decade.

 

[RoseB]

The one with the largest belly; biggest heat and long times means a lot of BTUs need to be stuffed into it in the form of wood.
So the largest stove.
begreen noted that the one you have is about the largest (for a 6" flue). And he knows this much better than I do.

The point is that there will be stoves that have far longer burning times. But given the fixed amount of wood BTUs one can put in them, that means those longer times will be at a lower BTU per hour rate. I.e. a 3.5 cubic foot box gets you xx hours burning hot/high. There may be a 3.5 cubic ft stove that can burn twice as long, but that necessarily means it'll be at half the output per hour. Stoves don't magically make BTUs appear out of thin air - they appear out of wood only...

It is advisable to keep the 6" flue as many more options are available for that size than for an 8" flue. Although 8" flues generally are needed for even larger stoves. I think there's a large Buck stove, there is a large Blaze King stove (though these are not known for their large high-end output), and there may be a few others (is there a Regency on an 8" flue?).
However, you see the list is short.
And replacing the current flue with 8" stuff is expensive - and thus limits future options if the new 8"-flue'd stove you hypothetically get either dies or is not satisfying.

So it seems you can't do much better in terms of heat output and duration than with the thing you have there - if you stay with 6".

Thanks so much for this detailed answer. Highly valuable to me.
I am a rational person and all you say definitely makes sense.
For sure I will stay on a 6” flue.
I will get my J.A. Roby inspected and will start from there.
Saving 7-8-9K CAD is also part of the equation.
Thanks again stoveliker and begreen for sharing your knowledge and some kind of wisdom. You gave me the perspective I needed.

 

[RoseB]

The JA Roby has about the same size usable capacity as the Enerzone 3.5. It's a modern efficient stove. Member @joop has been running one for about a decade.

Thanks begreen. I’ll try the JA Roby this winter. But will get it inspected first. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.

 

[begreen]

The first year in a new house can be a little stressful as one discovers the quirks and issues that need fixing. I found some real doozies when we move into out house in 1994. Some needed immediate fixing, so the wood stove stayed as it was for the first season.

 

[RoseB]

The first year in a new house can be a little stressful as one discovers the quirks and issues that need fixing. I found some real doozies when we move into out house in 1994. Some needed immediate fixing, so the wood stove stayed as it was for the first season.

So true. I hope my J.A. Roby is in good shape, maybe with some bit of maintenance.
I thought J.A. Roby were low quality stoves. You made me see it differently. I went to look at the specs and it’s for sure a decent stove. Not high end but might just do the job for now.
I had been juggling with which stove model to choose for weeks. You guys took some weights off my shoulders. Big thanks.

 

[begreen]

They are comparatively less expensive stoves, but so are Drolets. With care and proper operation they can provide years of good service.

 

[Southwestpaburner]

Should she maybe at the least swap out that 90 for 2-45s

 

[begreen]

Should she maybe at the least swap out that 90 for 2-45s

Maybe not. That is a tall chimney. The draft reduction might be desirable.

 

[RoseB]

Should she maybe at the least swap out that 90 for 2-45s

Interesting that you raise this point. One of the guy who came evaluating for a new stove did suggest to change to 45.
The chimney runs outside the house and I guess is not so well insulated. So any small improvement might help. All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Southwestpaburner]

That’s why you guys are the professionals and I usually just shut up and listen and learn LOL

 

[begreen]

Interesting that you raise this point. One of the guy who came evaluating for a new stove did suggest to change to 45.
The chimney runs outside the house and I guess is not so well insulated. So any small improvement might help. All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I'd try it first. A typical, cold-start behavior in cold weather with a chimney like this is a balky start until the chimney liner is warmed up. After that, it may suck like a tornado. Does the chimney have a 6" stainless liner in it?

 

[RoseB]

Maybe not. That is a tall chimney. The draft reduction might be desirable.

Very good point indeed. Best would be to start with the actual setup. And see if some improvements are needed later on.

 

[RoseB]

I'd try it first. A typical, cold-start behavior in cold weather with a chimney like this is a balky start until the chimney liner is warmed up. After that, it may suck like a tornado. Does the chimney have a 6" stainless liner in it?

There is no stainless liner in it for now. The chimney is made of cast iron. Would it be better to install a stainless liner? For sure there is no space for an insulated liner. The installers who came to evaluate have suggested to put a 6” stainless liner. But I wasn’t sure if was a good recommendation or if they only wanted to sell me something. I’ll do everything that can help the situation.

 

[begreen]

I haven't heard of that before. I wonder if this is steel pipe like well casing pipe. What is the diameter of the cast iron pipe?

 

[RoseB]

I haven't heard of that before. I wonder if this is steel pipe like well casing pipe. What is the diameter of the cast iron pipe?

Only one installer went on the roof to look down into the chimney. He told me the pipe is a little larger at the bottom, probably around 8” and it gets slightly narrower as it goes up. At the top it’s around 7”. Just enough space for a 6” liner. The installer recommended to leave the cast iron pipe in place as it was crazy heavy.

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

I have hardwood that was cut down in winter two years ago.

Hope it was split at that point too.