Napoleon owners before replacing baffles read this and save money

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Dolmar7900

New Member
Dec 22, 2013
22
Whitewater Wisconsin
Sorry if this information is already been posted. If you own the a Napoleon stove and need to replace the baffles don't buy $80 worth of baffle material. From my understanding the baffles were a cheap alternative to the bricks that were designed to go in their place to keep shipping costs down. Minard's sells a six pack of bricks for $15. I would only assume the bricks would be a better choice than the baffles from what I understand. I would assume any stove Napoleon makes the takes the same baffles as found in the 1402 would be able to utilize the brick instead.
 
It would suck if the baffle supports were redesigned since it didn't have to to carry the weight of the bricks and something like secondary tubes warped under the heat and weight.

Be careful with a mod like that.
 
The insulated baffle is to keep the firebox hotter. This helps the stove burn cleaner and put out more heat. Bricks may work, and could be a good quick local repair, but the real solution is to treat the baffle with respect and don't try loading the stove to the ceiling.
 
I became aware of using brick instead of the baffles because of A discussion I had with a 30-year veteran of the stove industry who was familiar with the Napoleon 1402 and the Lopi freedom bay. I was discussing the difference between the baffles on The Napoleon and the brick that is used in the Lopi freedom Bay. He said both were designed to use brick but Napoleon chose to ship it with baffles because it was cheaper for shipping. I told him I thought the baffles were some high-tech design as well. He did not agree with me.
There is a bit of logic in the fact that the bricks lining the top of the firebox on the Napoleon would possibly hold more heat and possibly have a better Reaburn affect for the fire. Does anyone out there have any information to support or refute these ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
I would also think that would be a lot of weight for the tubes to support especially when the tubes turn cherry red.
 
Depends on the density of the brick, many types out there. If you have a local refractory ( kilns, heat treat furnaces) build/repair company that would be your source for most anything in the 2k deg resistance zone that you would need.
 
I have experience with both the thick (vortex) baffels and bricks. My insert has bricks, 2 layers and 4 bricks are cut so you overlap the seams. Start with a shorter brick in the back on the first layer, then finish with a short brick in the front of the top layer. This is how my manual shows the install. Performance wise the baffels hands down beat the bricks. The baffels smoke much less on startups and reloading. The bricks on the other hand are much more durable. Some day I will probably switch the insert to the vortex baffels. My 1450 is on winter #2 with the vortex and they look like new.
 
Folks- Napoleon at one time did use bricks (lightweight pumice style) for their top baffle in their woodstoves, as did Quadrafire, Lopi Enviro and others. Over time, they have almost all moved to the lightweight ceramic fiberboard baffle systems. Regardless of whether you think bricks would be better, please please please do the right thing and use what your stove was listed and tested to use. I do not understand why people want to take it upon themselves to just "change their stove designs" because they "think" it would be ok? I doubt an insurance co would go along with that line of thinking in the event of a tragedy. We invite fire into our houses, treat it respectfully. Of course there are so many customers who know more than us stove "sales" guys, but I'm asking you, use your stove the way it was meant to be used per the manufacturer. Don't change parts, don't add parts that aren't supposed to be in stoves, but use the correct parts, that keeps things safe. Good luck to us all.
 
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Thanks stovelark. I hear this folklore about switching to ceramic board or pumice bricks to save stove shipping weight a few times every year. In the case of PE stoves I can say that is bunk. It is designed for efficiency. Insulating the firebox is a good thing. That is not to say that other companies haven't been successful with other methods, but I agree with you that altering the stove's original design is not necessarily an improvement.
 
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