My Garn Has arrived and Have some ???

[Kemer]

Got my garn thursday from This Warm House.It is a 1500 vertical.I have a attached boiler room and it worked out better to go with vertical. I have some questions after readin the supplied manuals.
I thought I had everything figured out but the manaul is contradicting

It states in manaul that you should only put styro under skids.I was told to put a whole sheet of 1 1/2" under all of it.If they want 2" clearance the styro would be touching

Is there a special collar to attach to the air intake? 6" or 7" don't seem to fit snug

Do you really need a vacum relief opening?

I don't know if we have 3" metal studs so I'll just use 1 1/2" track and turn studs flat Ok?

I'm just starting so I'm sure more questions will follow but I think I'll be ok because this is replacing a eko 60 and I have most plumbing in place and have been burning for two years now.

Thanks in advance

 

[heaterman]

Got my garn thursday from This Warm House.It is a 1500 vertical.I have a attached boiler room and it worked out better to go with vertical. I have some questions after readin the supplied manuals.
I thought I had everything figured out but the manaul is contradicting

It states in manaul that you should only put styro under skids.I was told to put a whole sheet of 1 1/2" under all of it.If they want 2" clearance the styro would be touching

Is there a special collar to attach to the air intake? 6" or 7" don't seem to fit snug

Do you really need a vacum relief opening?

I don't know if we have 3" metal studs so I'll just use 1 1/2" track and turn studs flat Ok?

I'm just starting so I'm sure more questions will follow but I think I'll be ok because this is replacing a eko 60 and I have most plumbing in place and have been burning for two years now.

Thanks in advance

Kemer. The first place you should go with those questions is This Warm House. They will be more than happy to assist and answer and as the rep for Garn in your area, it's what they are there for.

 

[Kemer]

Heaterman,Sorry to offend you but it is the weekend and I would like to set this thing today.Warm house has answered my questions but the manual says differnt.I was told to put a sheet of dow board under the unit but the manual on page 19 says not to.It looks like everybody else put it fully under the unit.On page 3 it states not to put on combustable floor.Even the demensions in the manual are wrong so now I don't know what to think.Should I follow the owners manual or what a salesman tells me.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Heaterman,Sorry to offend you but it is the weekend and I would like to set this thing today.Warm house has answered my questions but the manual says differnt.I was told to put a sheet of dow board under the unit but the manual on page 19 says not to.It looks like everybody else put it fully under the unit.On page 3 it states not to put on combustable floor.Even the demensions in the manual are wrong so now I don't know what to think.Should I follow the owners manual or what a salesman tells me.

As a non expert on this I would put the dow board fully under. If you need some peace of mind spray some fireproofing on(asuming dow doesn't have some sort of skin), Randy

 

[heaterman]

Well I guess I have done about 20 of them wrong..... Every last one of 'em has full coverage under the unit. The bottom of the Garn runs the same temp as the water so you want to prevent heat loss to whatever is under the thing.

The combustible surface simply means that you shouldn't install the thing on something like a hardwood floor. The area of concern of course being the front by the loading door where as with any wood burning device, there is a danger of coals and/or sparks hitting the floor. Hence the combustible surface thingy.
That's also the reason you'll see Garn recommend installing a flame resistant front covering such as drywall. The insulating kit I developed for these things has solid fiberglass board covered with an aluminum skin on the face for the same reason.

AFA the 7x6 reducer is concerned, some variation in the size of that rear collar can lead to a less than snug fit like you'd get with two pieces of stove pipe. We simply wrap them up with some aluminum plenum tape. Again, when the blower is off, that area can never reach a temperature higher than the water in the Garn.

Take your time and enjoy doing the process well. I can only think of one time that we installed one in less than a day. ......and that was with myself and 2 crew working on it.

 

[Kemer]

Heaterman I don't doubt you advice in mater of fact I wanted to hear from you because you seem the most knowlagble on Garns.I"m worried about haveing a air leak on the intake,maybe I will make a filler out of sheet metal to take up the gap between the inlet and pipe and screw and tape it.It is atleast an1/8" all around.Do you run 6" or 7" intake pipe?
I was told to use 6" but the manual says 7".I will take your advice and put insulation all underneath.Makes the most sence.I only wanted to move the unit in place and I'm a little short on space in the back and wanted to have all conections in rear done before I slid it in place.

Thanks for you advice

Harry

 

[heaterman]

Heaterman I don't doubt you advice in mater of fact I wanted to hear from you because you seem the most knowlagble on Garns.I"m worried about haveing a air leak on the intake,maybe I will make a filler out of sheet metal to take up the gap between the inlet and pipe and screw and tape it.It is atleast an1/8" all around.Do you run 6" or 7" intake pipe?
I was told to use 6" but the manual says 7".I will take your advice and put insulation all underneath.Makes the most sence.I only wanted to move the unit in place and I'm a little short on space in the back and wanted to have all conections in rear done before I slid it in place.

Thanks for you advice

Harry

As a matter of habit, I keep it the size of the through wall hood and use the adapter at the back of the Garn. Usually the length of pipe is so short it would make no practical difference.

Thanks for the kind words.

 

[Kemer]

Because of the position of my garn and it is a vertical I have to run about 12 ft. of air intake pipe and want it to be very sturdy.Because of the long run I will go with 7"

 

[heaterman]

Because of the position of my garn and it is a vertical I have to run about 12 ft. of air intake pipe and want it to be very sturdy.Because of the long run I will go with 7"

That'll be fine. Use three screws to join each length of stove pipe on the intake, spaced equally around the seams and then tape over top. It'll be air tight.

 

[Jim K in PA]

Harold - congrats on getting the beast.

For the connection of the intake pipe to the GARN intake collar, I used high temp rope gasket for wood stoves to make a tight seal between the single wall galv and the GARN. It was about 1/4" thick or so. I used the 7" and slipped it over the collar. Worked great.

Ppost up some pictures of your installation as you go.

Best of luck.

 

[Kemer]

Thanks Jim,
I got a 7" elbow and it fit snug enough that some screws and silicone worked out.I have it in place today with all the connections on in the hard to reach places.I will post pic's when I can.
and Jim I'll email or call you if you don't mind

 

[Jim K in PA]

That's fine Harry. email or phone would be best, since I don't check in here that often anymore.

Thanks Jim,
I got a 7" elbow and it fit snug enough that some screws and silicone worked out.I have it in place today with all the connections on in the hard to reach places.I will post pic's when I can.
and Jim I'll email or call you if you don't mind