My favorite chain sharpener.

[karri0n]

So, I noticed my saw wasn't self-feeding like it had been, and some of the chips were noteably more "dusty" than previously. I wasn't aware of how to sharpen a chain, so I went online and looked up hand sharpening guides, videos, manufacturer instructions, etc. Hand filing appeared to be pretty simple after looking at the videos, and I was confident enough to give it a go. I headed to the hardware store with every intention of getting a file and a guide. When I arrived, I noticed that the oregon file and guide(the only choice) was the same price as the chainsaw bit for my dremel tool. I opted to give it a try. I set the dremel to medium speed, and touched up the chain in exactly the same way you would do it with a hand file, except it took less than a second for each tooth. I had my chain done within less than 2 minutes of installing the bit. There's even a handy angle guide that will fit the official dremel tools, though mine is a black and decker and doesn't have the same nose as the real Dremel brand ones do. The top plate on my chain was plenty intact for me to use that angle as the guide, anyway.

On the test, the chain seemed to cut even better than when I bought the new chain. There was no noticeable wear after two tanks of gas, either.


If you've got a dremel or similar rotary tool, and don't want to throw down $30+ for an electric sharpener that won't get the same results you can do by hand, This guy is very recommended. They had 3 standard sizes, and I chose the one for my chain - 5/32". 7 Dollars at my local true value, probably a bit cheaper from a big box store.

You'll still need a flat file when it comes time to file down the rakers.

 

[cre73]

One thing to remember is unless yor dremel tool is battery powered you'll propably still want a file for those quick touch ups out in the timber.

 

[savageactor7]

Wow...must be a pretty good aid to have been able to help you out so quickly. Lot's of folks get frustrated hand filing chains ...now after awhile you'll see your chain stretch to the point you have to take a link out of it cause it's still got legs. That's because hand filing doesn't take off much ...next ya know you'll be getting a chain breaker re-spinner. good for you karri0n.

 

[karri0n]

Wow...must be a pretty good aid to have been able to help you out so quickly. Lot's of folks get frustrated hand filing chains ...now after awhile you'll see your chain stretch to the point you have to take a link out of it cause it's still got legs. That's because hand filing doesn't take off much ...next ya know you'll be getting a chain breaker re-spinner. good for you karri0n.

Yeah, it seemed like the tool took almost no meat off of the cutters. Just a quick touch for a fraction of a second put a razor edge on the cutter tips, and that was at 15k RPM, not 30. I wouldn't want to use this if my rotary tool was an all-or nothing 30k RPM like some of their models. I would think the 30k RPM would produce quite a bit of heat and blue the chrome. This was such an easy operation to perform, I can't see what would be very difficult about sharpening using a hand file, other than the fact it takes a bit longer due to multiple strokes.

I know some folks who have been sharpening chains for years will find a particular grinding angle, and like the way the saw performs at that angle. this seems like the perfect tool for being able to do that with. I really like the fact that you hold it basically the same way you would hold a file, so you have the same measure of control and customization you could get with a hand file.

As to the breaker/spinner, after seeing the prices on those, I think it'd be quite a while before I got a good return on investment for that thing.

 

[savageactor7]

Well karri0n then just save your stretched out chains when you get half a doz or so look up a granberg 'break and mend'. They're just 50USD.
(broken image removed)

Some manly men can use 'em out in the field...but that aint me, I have a wrist thing going on. I have to drill a small hole in the rivet to help break 'em. imo you may as well forget about tie's as well...not that I claim to be a great thinker in this application. But some claim a used tie or the same tie will marry up better with a working chain. I dunno for sure but that made sense to me so that's what I do and never had a repaired one break...or any chains (Stihl or Oregon) break for that matter.

As with anything you do that isn't 1,2,3, by the book blah, blah you have to think it threw and ask yourself ...am I feeling lucky?

 

[Kong]

Save your stretched chain?

I have never - in over 30 years of cutting - had a chain stretch such that it could not be used. I suppose one could stretch that far but its hard to immagine it wouldn't have just plain broken in the wood long before it got that bad. But of course they never get that bad because even with minimal maintainence hand sharpeing you will file the cutter clean off the chain long long before the rivets and time straps wear so badly that the chain would need to be shortened to be at all useful. My goodness, they don't cost that much to replace.

You can disregard the above if you have a brace of saws and a crew of men running them every day - but for home use, well, ....

 

[herbdan]

Is the stone and guide you bought made by Dremel or Oregon?

Thanks, sounds like a great idea.

 

[charly]

I've always filed by hand. One chain will last me 10-20 cords of wood cutting, plus. I touch up when ever I feel the cutters are getting dull. About three strokes on each cutter. Rakers are important too. Too straighten a chain , I use dial calipers. I put a single paint dot on one cutter. Than I mic or measure each cutter, each time I find a shorter cutter, I rezero the dial calipers, to zero. Once around the chain loop, I now know the the shortest cutter on the loop, has been set to zero. Then I set the dial caliper to .005-.010 below the zero mark, and that's how much I'll be taking off the shortest cutter , plus the difference of any longer cutters. When I get done, the cutters are all the same length. Makes for a nice cutting chain. I took a brand new oregon chain and checked the cutters with my dial calipers. Out of the box, they allowed .010 in length from one cutter to the next. I've found Timber Savage files to be the best I've used. It's well worth the time get use to sharpening a chain free hand. I did it for years. I look at the hash mark on the top of the cutters , to gauge the length on left to right cutters, and that seems to work well too. I worked on a couple of different tree crews for years , and have sharpened my share of chains. It does take a while to understand and learn, but it's easier than alot of people think. You don't need alot of special jiggs, you just need to understand the principle of sharpening. Don't forget the rails on your chainsaw bar.If there is any ridge hanging off the side of the bar, you can feel it with your finger nail, it will then be wider than the cutter, and not allow the cutter to cut. Take a raker file and smooth the side of the bar rail until the ridge is gone. I always twist my file to the right as I'm sharpening my cutters. And never back drag a file, only pressure on the foward stroke. Hope this helps.

 

[karri0n]

Is the stone and guide you bought made by Dremel or Oregon?

Thanks, sounds like a great idea.

It's made by Dremel. I've seen it in one of the "multi-purpose" accessory kits, as well as all three sizes available individually. I saw another that included the guide, and three different sized bits. I didn't get the guide, I just got the individually packaged one in the size I needed. This came with two bits.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I agree that those tools are great. I filed by hand for many, many moons but after my hands got too bad and hurt to much doing it I finally got the sharpener. It works great although I would not say I touch for only a split second on each tooth. You have to be careful to not overheat the chain but a second should not overheat it.

As for portability, you can buy them that run on DC. I carry my sharpener in an old razor case so it is with me at all times. When I need to sharpen, I simply clamp the wires onto the atv battery and sharpen the saw teeth. It takes but minutes to do and you can be right back to cutting.

In the event you goof and touch dirt with the saw chain, no problem. Just quickly touch it up and you are back to work. No need of taking extra chains to the woods with you either.


This brings up another point. I read where people buy lots of extra chains and just keep changing them when they dull. In all my years of cutting I have never had an extra chain. When a chain wears out, then I'll go buy another one.

 

[smokinj]

I agree that those tools are great. I filed by hand for many, many moons but after my hands got too bad and hurt to much doing it I finally got the sharpener. It works great although I would not say I touch for only a split second on each tooth. You have to be careful to not overheat the chain but a second should not overheat it.

As for portability, you can buy them that run on DC. I carry my sharpener in an old razor case so it is with me at all times. When I need to sharpen, I simply clamp the wires onto the atv battery and sharpen the saw teeth. It takes but minutes to do and you can be right back to cutting.

In the event you goof and touch dirt with the saw chain, no problem. Just quickly touch it up and you are back to work. No need of taking extra chains to the woods with you either.


This brings up another point. I read where people buy lots of extra chains and just keep changing them when they dull. In all my years of cutting I have never had an extra chain. When a chain wears out, then I'll go buy another one.

I run with 12 chains but not cutting at my own place so thats where the need comes in for extra chains. Just dont want to stop for a dull chain also will just touch up if I can get by with it.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Holy crap Jay! That's a lot of money tied up in chains.

Once again, I have only one chain and that is also how I worked years ago when working in the woods. We simply just took care of the chains as needed on the job. If a chain wore out then we'd go buy another but never had extra.

 

[smokinj]

Holy crap Jay! That's a lot of money tied up in chains.

Once again, I have only one chain and that is also how I worked years ago when working in the woods. We simply just took care of the chains as needed on the job. If a chain wore out then we'd go buy another but never had extra.

got lot of money in saws and splitter as well with my limited time I can spend on a job anything and everthing that could come up in a days time has been thought out and in the truck tool box, I was a Boy Scout... lol you get into a rotton trunk or two and your going to need it all.

 

[Jags]

I keep one spare for my most commonly used bar (18"). That way if I am not at home and I rock it, or find something in the wood, I can simply swap out chains and keep cutting. For the 25", I currently only have one chain, but I think I am going to get another for exactly the same reason. I will field sharpen if need be, but I can swap a chain faster than I can sharpen a chain in the field, so thats how I operate.

 

[karri0n]

I agree that those tools are great. I filed by hand for many, many moons but after my hands got too bad and hurt to much doing it I finally got the sharpener. It works great although I would not say I touch for only a split second on each tooth. You have to be careful to not overheat the chain but a second should not overheat it.

As for portability, you can buy them that run on DC. I carry my sharpener in an old razor case so it is with me at all times. When I need to sharpen, I simply clamp the wires onto the atv battery and sharpen the saw teeth. It takes but minutes to do and you can be right back to cutting.

In the event you goof and touch dirt with the saw chain, no problem. Just quickly touch it up and you are back to work. No need of taking extra chains to the woods with you either.


This brings up another point. I read where people buy lots of extra chains and just keep changing them when they dull. In all my years of cutting I have never had an extra chain. When a chain wears out, then I'll go buy another one.

Maybe I didn't run my chain as dull as I could have(but I think that's probably good practice anyway), but it just didn't seem like it even needed more than a split second per tooth. It was razor sharp after just a light touch.