MS 260 Guru's question? (what size cylinder)

[DexterDay]

I won the auction on my MS 260 last month from Ebay for $145 ($165 shipped). After using it for the last month, I have come to the conclusion that I want MORE from this little Saw. It has quickly became the go to Saw. Sold/Traded my 455 Rancher for 2 ton of Rocky Mountain (Softwood Pellets). Its light weight, fast, and light weight

The compression is a little weak and I want to get the Walbaro Carb for it (H &L adjustments), since I am gonna get the carb, I am gonna do the muffler mod. So while I am "Mod'ing", I want to go ahead and Ring it, or Piston and Ring (depends on how bad it looks when I get it apart). It doesnt look bad on the exhaust side at all, but who knows. So.....

The question, is do I have a 44 mm bore or the 44.7 mm bore? What serial # dictates the change? My serial # is 261026671, for those that may know. I can swing by the Stihl dealer tomorrow, but thought someone might know here.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Dexter

 

[DexterDay]

Another question? If anyone knows?

Can I just get the entire 44.7 mm Piston, ring, and cylinder kit and make it a Big Bore? (Thats if I have the 44 mm bore)? Some of the ebay listings read like I could.

I called the Stihl Dealer today and they said they will call me back They said I could order the parts through them and they would get the right ones....... Why couldn't they just tell me? There has to be a serial # that stopped the 44 mm bores. Most listings say for late model 026/260's? How late?

 

[smokinj]

Re-ring it put the new carb and muff modd. It will never be much stronger than that for the money. (Hope its a .325 set-up to)

 

[DexterDay]

Re-ring it put the new carb and muff modd. It will never be much stronger than that for the money. (Hope its a .325 set-up to)

Thats prob what I am gonna do. Dont look bad.

Even if I buy a ring, I gotta know if its the 44 mm or 44.7 mm?

I took it apart today. Cylinder has some slight scratches on Carb side, but nothing that looks bad or that you can feel.

And yeah, its 16" x .325.

 

[smokinj]

Thats prob what I am gonna do. Dont look bad.

Even if I buy a ring, I gotta know if its the 44 mm or 44.7 mm?

I took it apart today. Cylinder has some slight scratches on Carb side, but nothing that looks bad or that you can feel.

And yeah, its 16" x .325.

Its hard to say with out having a book for ring size your dealer can tell you quick enough and should be fairly cheap just to get it through them. Dont sink a ton into a 50cc its a great saw but never be a flat out hot rod. KISS

 

[kevin j]

+1 on jay

I have a later 260 top end (OEM) on an old 026. They are interchangeable. I think Stihl only sells the 260 top larger bore set anymore. From what I am told, the smaller bore cylinder actually had better breathing, so the 'big bore' doesn't mean anything.
Just have the dealer measure it.

I would not replace the cylinder unless necessary. You will quickly get 200 in parts to a 150 saw that is worth 200 when you are done.

I would modify the muffler mildly, widen the ports but not change the timing, check the squish and lower the cylinder as much as you can, rering, for sure change to the adjustable carb. Done a couple like this on a budget, and these changes wake it up a lot, and is the best return for the money. Just remember 'a lot' is not much on a 50cc saw. But I love my 026 old workhorse. Beyond that, don't pour extra money in a good running top end. Get a seized or damaged one where parts need to be replaced anyway, but you aren't paying the money for a good runner then tossing good parts.

Then watch for a larger saw in need of work, or a HD makita dolmar, and put your extra dollars there.

You will learn a lot and love the 026 compared to the box store homeowner stuff.

 

[DexterDay]

+1 on jay

I have a later 260 top end (OEM) on an old 026. They are interchangeable. I think Stihl only sells the 260 top larger bore set anymore. From what I am told, the smaller bore cylinder actually had better breathing, so the 'big bore' doesn't mean anything.
Just have the dealer measure it.

I would not replace the cylinder unless necessary. You will quickly get 200 in parts to a 150 saw that is worth 200 when you are done.

I would modify the muffler mildly, widen the ports but not change the timing, check the squish and lower the cylinder as much as you can, rering, for sure change to the adjustable carb. Done a couple like this on a budget, and these changes wake it up a lot, and is the best return for the money. Just remember 'a lot' is not much on a 50cc saw. But I love my 026 old workhorse. Beyond that, don't pour extra money in a good running top end. Get a seized or damaged one where parts need to be replaced anyway, but you aren't paying the money for a good runner then tossing good parts.

Then watch for a larger saw in need of work, or a HD makita dolmar, and put your extra dollars there.

You will learn a lot and love the 026 compared to the box store homeowner stuff.

Thanks for the tips. I thought the jugs were interchangeable. Thats the way it reads. Im prob just gonna re-ring it and call it good.

As for the Bigger Saws. I have an 036 and a MS-460. I would like to get the 6401 and put the Big Bore kit on it But I just sold my 455 Rancher because I had to many (I know, no such thing!) But I am keeping my eyes pelled

But because of its lightweight and the power it has for its size, I thought by going Big Bore, Muffler mod, Walboro carb, and new fuel and air filter (needs those). That it would really wake it up.

I know... I know.... There is no replacement for displacement. Hopeful thinkin I guess

 

[kevin j]

I forgot to note the obvious: biggest bang for no bucks is sharp chain. Learn to file and maintain your chain and that is a quick 10-25% improvement. or 300% improvement, depending on the owner.......

dolmar is somewhat chubby at 64 cc, but at 79, awesome saw. get the HD filter. I love it, been trying for another one for a year at the metro HD places. very smooth runner.

 

[DexterDay]

Well, I ordered a Walboro 194 carb and a new Piston, cylinder, and ring kit, complete with gaskets. (44.7 / should bolt right up)
Also need a new Air filter, spark plug, and fuel filter. But I will grab those fron my local dealer.

With the BB kit and the Muffler mod, I will need the new carb. For $60, it was money well spent (in my opinion).

All told, I will have about $265 in the saw, but it will be as good as new (hopefully ) For the going rate of the average 026/MS 260, its still a good deal and it will have all new parts.


Pics will be forthcoming, when parts arrive

 

[mking7]

You already ordered but in case this helps someone in the future. These are some responses I got years ago when I was in a similar boat.

44.7mm's came in higher serial numbers (262xxxxxx)

The other way is that the 44.7 piston is domed slightly; the 44mm is flat. The 44.7 was fitted with a heat sheild beteeen the muffer and cylinder, so if you have one of these, it's probably not a 44.

 

[DexterDay]

You already ordered but in case this helps someone in the future. These are some responses I got years ago when I was in a similar boat.

44.7mm's came in higher serial numbers (262xxxxxx)

The other way is that the 44.7 piston is domed slightly; the 44mm is flat. The 44.7 was fitted with a heat sheild beteeen the muffer and cylinder, so if you have one of these, it's probably not a 44.

That serial # is what I was looking for. Thanks.

The top of my cylinder is dome shaped? And I believe I have the 44 mm. No exhaust shield though.

Parts have shipped and should be here in a couple days. Looking forward to getting it all back together.

I thought about new bearings and seals for the bottom end, but never split the cases on a saw, so I figured I would leave well enough alone. The bearings and seals are cheap and I already have it broke down pretty far...... Oh well.

Thanks for the info....

 

[HittinSteel]

Mine's in TN, getting a woods port. It was a snappy saw with just a muffler mod. Should be interesting when it returns home.

 

[kevin j]

you can do the seals from the outside wihtout splitting cases. Many htreads on AS. I would definitely do the seals. You don't want an air leak to take out all the new parts and engine.
I use the Lisle puller with the hook ground down to be narrower.

 

[CT-Mike]

Dexter,

I am surprised no one has mentioned this, but your bars are upside down on at least two saws shown in the pic.

 

[DexterDay]

Dexter,

I am surprised no one has mentioned this, but your bars are upside down on at least two saws shown in the pic.

I like to cut "Bottom up"!

 

[Defiant]

I like to cut "Bottom up"!

CT-Mike, he can't spell he also likes bottoms up

 

[DexterDay]

CT-Mike, he can't spell he also likes bottoms up

Eye Kan two spel.... Me n mi cusin gradiated twogeter.

Cee my piks.

(All in good fun )

 

[DexterDay]

Ok.. For those in the know, I thought I looked at the Carb/Throttle linkage pretty good before taking it off (should have taken a pic ). Now I cant seem to get it on the carb. I took the top of the handle off to remove it.

Now I cant tell if it goes over or under the choke/start linkage?

I got all my parts in this week. The Piston, rings, cylinder, fuel filter, seals, spark plug, gaskets, and Walboro 194 carb..... This Carb has me Stumped (linkage).

Also, the arrow on the piston, points towards the exhaust port? Correct? OEM has an E on the exhaust side. Aftermarket has an arrow.

Thanks for any help on the linkage and piston direction.

 

[Defiant]

So what's the problem Just asking

 

[DexterDay]

No problem. Its done. A buddy came over and helped. Runs like a scalded monkey

All told. Less than $300. And now its basically a Pro without a De-comp button. (If I remember correctly, Pro's were the Walboro carb, 44.7 mm bore, de-comp, and adjustable oiler? No?)

It now has the 44.7 mm bore, new seals,Walboro 194 carb, new fuel and air filters, new bar and chain, and had the adjustable oiler.

Going cuttin in the a.m....

Link Removed Link Removed

 

[MasterMech]

Who the hell needs a decomp on a MS260 anyways.

Adjustable oiler is nice but I got's a feelin' you isn't goin' to be runnin' no 20"+ bar on that saw.

 

[DexterDay]

Who the hell needs a decomp on a MS260 anyways.

Adjustable oiler is nice but I got's a feelin' you isn't goin' to be runnin' no 20"+ bar on that saw.

Nah. 16" only, but I dont mind to use a lil extra. Before the rebuild, it was about par with my 455 Rancher and afterwards (not even broke in), its a totally different saw and would blow the Rancher out of the water!

Out cuttin and Takin a break right now. Love my Droid!

 

[smokinj]

No problem. Its done. A buddy came over and helped. Runs like a scalded monkey

All told. Less than $300. And now its basically a Pro without a De-comp button. (If I remember correctly, Pro's were the Walboro carb, 44.7 mm bore, de-comp, and adjustable oiler? No?)

It now has the 44.7 mm bore, new seals,Walboro 194 carb, new fuel and air filters, new bar and chain, and had the adjustable oiler.

Going cuttin in the a.m....

Link Removed Link Removed

Thats no scalded monkey its its its a Gorilla!

 

[DexterDay]

Thats no scalded monkey its its its a Gorilla!

There is a MAJOR improvement over when I got it. Should get a little better with the next couple tanks.

I only cut down 3 smaller ash trees.. Ran the 260 till it was empty and finished up with the 036

The 260 isn't very big in the cc department, but it's definitely a runner.

 

[smokinj]

There is a MAJOR improvement over when I got it. Should get a little better with the next couple tanks.

I only cut down 3 smaller ash trees.. Ran the 260 till it was empty and finished up with the 036

The 260 isn't very big in the cc department, but it's definitely a runner.

View attachment 75371

I ran one for about a year. QUADS only runs a 260 and he produces alot of firewood. What I dont like about a 260 is the tree's I get. There normally all trim up just like this one... ( i have been given 6 oaks just like this one) Over the last 3 years.