Moisture re-absorbtion?

[Beetle-Kill]

With spring on it's way here, I want to move about 4 cord of Pine, to make room for the new stuff. It's all cross-stacked, and in the sun and wind currently. I wonder if I can move it under a deck, without it absorbing much additional moisture content? The under-deck area would be out of the sun, and most of the wind. Also, the ground stays moist through the summer. If I raise it up on blocks and pallets, can or will the wood soak up any additional moisture? Currently around 16-18% MC. Thanks, JB

 

[zzr7ky]

I would put it on pallets and call it good to go. Doubt it will be an issue.

 

[Battenkiller]

I'd be pretty leery about doing that. Conditions under a deck can be very high in relative humidity. It all depends on how much water is in the ground, drainage, how enclosed it is, etc. If RH goes up to near the 100% mark, your wood could pick up enough moisture to once again reach the fiber saturation water point of the wood - about 30% MC for pine.

Also, it seems to be a perfect breeding ground for mildew, mold and other microbes to come in and ruin your wood. Once that wood climbs above 20% MC (shouldn't take long), it is fair game to fungus.

OTOH, a friend gave me a 12'L x 24"W x 3"D plank of the curliest gunstock-grade hard maple I've ever seen. He had it stored outside under his front porch for 20 years and didn't want to leave it after he sold the place. Shockingly, it was in perfectly fine condition. Musta been pretty dry under there is all I can say.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

Yup, gunstock blanks are odd, until you start carving on them.Butts can be given a "cast-off/on", if you have the time, but the fore-ends tend to get wonky if not tended to. I kinda think you're right about the under-deck storage. My RH doesn't get close to 100%, but my wood is dry enough to act like a sponge. Have you ever seasoned wood, only to have it gain MC, after stacking/storing? Thanks, JB

 

[Battenkiller]

My RH doesn't get close to 100%, but my wood is dry enough to act like a sponge. Have you ever seasoned wood, only to have it gain MC, after stacking/storing? Thanks, JB

JB,

I should have looked at your location. Duh... yours will probably dry a lot more yet, even under a deck. Most locations in Colorado can get dry enough for MC to get down below 10%.

I don't use a moisture meter on my firewood, so I can't tell you that I've ever actually confirmed it to put water back on after it is fully seasoned. However, I know it will based on a rudimentary understanding of wood technology. Your wood doesn't have to be like a sponge in order to regain lost water. All you need is an increase in RH. However, you will never be able to increase it beyond its fiber saturation point without immersing it in water.

 

[Wood Duck]

Beetle-kill,
I think you'll be fine stacking it under the deck, unless it is a lot wetter under there than you suggest. The air stays pretty dry in colorado and should keep the wood in good burning shape. will it absorb some moisture? Maybe. i guess that once wood is seasoned for a while it reached equilibrium with the air, sometimes gaining alittle moisture, sometimes losing a little, but generally keeping pace with the humidity of the air, only at a slower pace.

 

[billb3]

I'd worry most about ground contact and even in less than a year even pine will be fine.
Even if you put something on top of the stacks to help with rain , the worst you would probably get is a tiny bit of mold.

 

[Battenkiller]

i guess that once wood is seasoned for a while it reached equilibrium with the air, sometimes gaining alittle moisture, sometimes losing a little, but generally keeping pace with the humidity of the air, only at a slower pace.

Yes, that's exactly it. Why can't I learn to say things is such an easy to relate to way?

Here's a link to to a PDF article that gives the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of every area in the US, as well as numerous regions from around the world. Follow this URL and then click on the line in red to get the PDF. It will show you what the EMC of wood stored outside will be during each month of the year in your area.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Equilibrium_moisture_content_of_wood_in_outdoor_lo.html

 

[billb3]

...and if you have an abnormally wet or dry year skewing the averages ?


so is your pine under the deck yet ?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

To answer the question more information would be needed. Storage under some decks would pose no problems while under others it would be a disaster. Definitely being in a dry climate will help a lot but it can still depend upon air circulation. The wood also would have to be stacked so it would not make contact with the ground and if water can get through the deck (are the flooring boards spaced?) then the top would have to be covered too.

In this case the wood is already seasoned so it would have to be extreme to cause any damage. Wood is not a sponge unless it is punky or in the beginning punk stage.

 

[benjamin]

He's in Colorado!

I think he's just posting this to make us all jealous-"I only get like 364 days of sun a year, is my wood going to be dry enough?"

Well how many 3' oak logs do YOU cut, huh?

Pretty hard to age a perfect ten year oak split when all you've got is flash in the pan pine, hmf.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

Back now, had to finish some drywall. Cut a 6' hole in a wall to be able to look at the mountains from the dining room. Nope, woods not been moved yet. Deck is 10' deep by 45' long. I think if I dig up a little dirt, and lay in some pea gravel, that combined with the blocks and pallets, I should have adequate ventilation. My winter RH has been around mid-20's daytime, up to mid-70's at night.Once mud season is over, it should be a little lower overall. Oak, haven't split that for 20 years, but would love the opportunity to have at it again. Oh BTW, we only get 363 days of sun here. :cheese:

 

[madison]

Give the carpenter ants and bugs some shade & moisture, they'll love the new home under the deck. I personally would not move the wood close to anything the ants and bugs would enjoy.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

CRAP! Thanks Madison, forgot about the ants, I have 'em all over the place. Though most are embedded in the hundreds of old railroad ties the previous owners used for retaining walls, steps, you name it. This summer they All go.

 

[Tony H]

CRAP! Thanks Madison, forgot about the ants, I have 'em all over the place. Though most are embedded in the hundreds of old railroad ties the previous owners used for retaining walls, steps, you name it. This summer they All go.

As my ant guy once said make sure you take or kill all the ants when you take the infested wood because they will be looking for new digs and you don't want that to be your house ! We have sandy soil and he told me to throw some ant killer all around the house each spring to make a barrier. I use the ortho granular stuff and do a 2' path all around the foundation and it seems to work.
Oh yah keep the wood piles at least 50' away if possible.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

How many BTUs in an Ant??

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Regular Borax (from the Laundry soap isle) will do fine for keeping wood ants at bay. I treat about 2' from the foundation and it's been working well for 30 years or so.

ATB,
Mike