~*~vvv~*~ said:burns at 1/9 setting. flame is directed to front of burnpot & any air coming thru burnplate has to mix with flame, hopefully. underside of coverplate has no creosote deposited on it
plate on top & in front. low burn results in small pile of pellets burning near the auger, burnplate has holes all the way to the front. toplate forces the flame to the front where any air from burnplate will have to mix with the flame.glass gets hotter so it radiaTES MORE HEAT. other changes allow stove to run more radiant & room blower rarely comes on.dac122 said:So it looks like you simply added a plate over top your burn pot with an opening in the front? Am I seeing that correct?
Curious, what problem are you trying to solve?
~*~vvv~*~ said:plate on top & in front. low burn results in small pile of pellets burning near the auger, burnplate has holes all the way to the front. toplate forces the flame to the front where any air from burnplate will have to mix with the flame.glass gets hotter so it radiaTES MORE HEAT. other changes allow stove to run more radiant & room blower rarely comes on.dac122 said:So it looks like you simply added a plate over top your burn pot with an opening in the front? Am I seeing that correct?
Curious, what problem are you trying to solve?
steel coverplate saves the backplate from flamewear. dont see how baffling can hurt stove as it evens out the [l r] temp on top of stove.stoveguy2esw said:~*~vvv~*~ said:plate on top & in front. low burn results in small pile of pellets burning near the auger, burnplate has holes all the way to the front. toplate forces the flame to the front where any air from burnplate will have to mix with the flame.glass gets hotter so it radiaTES MORE HEAT. other changes allow stove to run more radiant & room blower rarely comes on.dac122 said:So it looks like you simply added a plate over top your burn pot with an opening in the front? Am I seeing that correct?
Curious, what problem are you trying to solve?
by enclosing the flame you will radiate more heat into the enclosure but this would lessen the radience getting to the outer hull of the stove. BTW the added baffling you added to the heat exchanger may well cause issues with the steel there as well as taxing the exhaust blower more than normal configuration would.
this is startup fire. i read exhaust temp with IR gun off 2' singlewall black pipe, fan blows on pipe from rear. temp @ blower stays below 160*f, 180*f where the fan cant blow-----burning @ 1/9 burn rate . room blower rarely comes on [set on 9] .stoveguy2esw said:the more baffling ,, the more resistance to flow , the slower the air moves, the slower the air moves the less active the fire not to mention with slower exhaust velocity the exhaust temps will rise and if the exhaust blower gets above 475F it will shut off due to thermal impedance protection in the blower
biggest constrictor to airflow is the area of the holes in the burnplate.stoveguy2esw said:the more baffling ,, the more resistance to flow , the slower the air moves, the slower the air moves the less active the fire not to mention with slower exhaust velocity the exhaust temps will rise and if the exhaust blower gets above 475F it will shut off due to thermal impedance protection in the blower
Gio said:I bet Englander wishes they had you on their R&D team.
~*~vvv~*~ said:this setup should result in more ash in the stove & less ash in the exhaust blower & pipe
this morning, i put coverplate on while there was still sawdust on the front of the burnpot & lotta embers shot out, bounced off the glass. i looked out the window at the end of the horizontal only vent & no embers were coming out of pipe! embers were hitting the metal lip [airwash?] above the door & getting blocked.sawdust now gone, embers stop, & stove is running on low.dac122 said:~*~vvv~*~ said:this setup should result in more ash in the stove & less ash in the exhaust blower & pipe
vvv,
Did you also allude to the fact that you will have less ash buildup in the burn post? Less scraping is good.
Appreciate the posting on your tests, but I think a comparison from baseline temps from all the key spots is needed to fully access this mod and address Mike's concerns.
Mike,
I am wondering if Englander has ever considered an upgraded burn pot for these stoves? I might pay for that. If I had a self-cleaning burn pot and board that would auto-start I would fall in love with my Englander all over again.
BTW, Mike, I bet you have a legion of volunteers that would submit to supervised field testing. When I worked for Carrier UTC you could volunteer for field testing on their prototypes. It made a huge difference in product quality. If you ever do, count me in.
~*~vvv~*~ said:blimp! just installed light dimmer on exhaust blower [which is bigger than original]. after cleaning the stove today, the relocated temp sensor [atop exhaust blower] kept telling the room blower to come on probly due to insulative ash having been removed from cleaning. with less combustion air should allow for a lower pellet feed & should keep the fire going.........stochiometric ideal for wood is ~8-1......anything higher is inefficient.......ask Europa
loan me the money, honey! burnpot is firing onto the glass per design, creosote on glass should tell a story of how efficiently it burns with less air + i can insulate the coverplate if needed with kwool i have.j-takeman said:~*~vvv~*~ said:blimp! just installed light dimmer on exhaust blower [which is bigger than original]. after cleaning the stove today, the relocated temp sensor [atop exhaust blower] kept telling the room blower to come on probly due to insulative ash having been removed from cleaning. with less combustion air should allow for a lower pellet feed & should keep the fire going.........stochiometric ideal for wood is ~8-1......anything higher is inefficient.......ask Europa
Ok, But with the Europa there heating the fuel to produce wood gas then burning the gas. I can see where less air might be required to produce the wood gas. Your Englander was meant to burn the fuel. Reducing the air flow may keep more heat in the stove and not out the vent. But at what cost. Rich burn would be high on my list(lack of proper combustion air). Of coarse I am thinking pellets and not saw dust/planner chips.
Do you have a video camera to post a vid for us of the burn? Like to see a short vid anyway.
If the Europa is what your trying to mimic from the Englader, Why not just plunk down the cash for the real deal?
~*~vvv~*~ said:loan me the money, honey! burnpot is firing onto the glass per design, creosote on glass should tell a story of how efficiently it burns with less air + i can insulate the coverplate if needed with kwool i have.j-takeman said:~*~vvv~*~ said:blimp! just installed light dimmer on exhaust blower [which is bigger than original]. after cleaning the stove today, the relocated temp sensor [atop exhaust blower] kept telling the room blower to come on probly due to insulative ash having been removed from cleaning. with less combustion air should allow for a lower pellet feed & should keep the fire going.........stochiometric ideal for wood is ~8-1......anything higher is inefficient.......ask Europa
Ok, But with the Europa there heating the fuel to produce wood gas then burning the gas. I can see where less air might be required to produce the wood gas. Your Englander was meant to burn the fuel. Reducing the air flow may keep more heat in the stove and not out the vent. But at what cost. Rich burn would be high on my list(lack of proper combustion air). Of coarse I am thinking pellets and not saw dust/planner chips.
Do you have a video camera to post a vid for us of the burn? Like to see a short vid anyway.
If the Europa is what your trying to mimic from the Englader, Why not just plunk down the cash for the real deal?
hassle! i had today removing the baffle & replacing. my exhaust pipe temp went down below 140*f with ir gun on singlewall pipe & the room blower kept blowing, which i dont want so im turning down the feedrate & the combustion air.........trick is to keep the flame going, eh?j-takeman said:~*~vvv~*~ said:loan me the money, honey! burnpot is firing onto the glass per design, creosote on glass should tell a story of how efficiently it burns with less air + i can insulate the coverplate if needed with kwool i have.j-takeman said:~*~vvv~*~ said:blimp! just installed light dimmer on exhaust blower [which is bigger than original]. after cleaning the stove today, the relocated temp sensor [atop exhaust blower] kept telling the room blower to come on probly due to insulative ash having been removed from cleaning. with less combustion air should allow for a lower pellet feed & should keep the fire going.........stochiometric ideal for wood is ~8-1......anything higher is inefficient.......ask Europa
Ok, But with the Europa there heating the fuel to produce wood gas then burning the gas. I can see where less air might be required to produce the wood gas. Your Englander was meant to burn the fuel. Reducing the air flow may keep more heat in the stove and not out the vent. But at what cost. Rich burn would be high on my list(lack of proper combustion air). Of coarse I am thinking pellets and not saw dust/planner chips.
Do you have a video camera to post a vid for us of the burn? Like to see a short vid anyway.
If the Europa is what your trying to mimic from the Englader, Why not just plunk down the cash for the real deal?
My digi can do low res vid, Maybe yours too?
I and another have asked if you monitor the temps before and after. Have you seen any differece in exhaust temps?
~*~vvv~*~ said:the light dimmer cut 30w from the combustion blower which is running quieter. slowed exhaust allowed for lower setting of pellet feed while keeping the fire from going out intermittently. glass, which gets hit by the burnpot output, is getting ash on it more but the ash wipes off with paper. exhaust outside is clear, not smoky.singlewall exhaust pipe is under 150*f , actual exhaust temp ~220*f.............stove runs radiant & room blower dont come on hardly. fan constantly blowing on exhaust pipe from rear of stove cools the pipe ala Magic Heat style
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