Man Cave Stove Pipe Install.

[Jags]

Long time listener - first time caller (no not really) Anyhow.......

I have been bouncing my head off the wall trying to figure the BEST solution for a pipe run for a new install. Here is the deal: I will be building a "Man Cave" room inside of an existing pole barn. The room is to be 24' x 24', with cement pad, 6" walls, 10' ceilings and all insulated quite well. The pole barn has a peak of approx. 28 ft. (its a pretty big sucker) and is of wood and tin construction. The room will be built into a corner.

Problem: the lowest part of the roof ( /\ ) is located next to a row of pine trees (plus I would rather not locate the stove on that wall). Either corner that will be located away from the pine row will have a peak of about 28 ft. This means that after the pipe leaves the room it will go straight up 18 ft. before it exits the roof line.

After reviewing stoves and talking with some pro's (thanks Corie) I think I will be using a 13NC for the stove. I have fears that even using double wall pipe, that I will have a huge problem with stack temps cooling to a danger zone. With that long of a run, I will have a draft similar to a jet engine which I am sure I will have to use a stack damper on to slow down the draft.

What options do I have? The building is of tin siding and I have thought to go up, then out the side wall but I DO NOT KNOW what the regs state. (calling Elk to the lobby), or if this is even remotely sensible. The pipe run alone will be a sizable chunk of change to goto the peak but if thats the rules, thats what will be done.

This is still in the planning stage, no holes have been cut, no walls have been built (need to get permits first). I know first hand that our inspector knows less about it than I do. I want it done right, and am just wondering if I am oblivious to the obvious. Any thoughts, ideas or recommendations?

Oh, to clarify...This will be a game room/bar kinda thing. It will have a high eff. furnace to maintain above freezing levels at all times as well.

 

[KeithO]

At least for domestic instalations (not sure how it relates to your barn and in particular whether your barn is insured) the stove pipe would have to stop 16-18" before reaching the ceiling of your "man cave", at which point you would go Class A. The class A has 2" clearance to combustibles and much lower heat loss / skin temperature. The class A then goes up and through the roof and then extends the 2' height clear of anything within 10'.

If the draft is too strong, fit a stove pipe damper just above the stove outlet, it will stay nice and clean at this location and it is readily accessible in case you need to open it when starting a cold stove and then shut it down some once that mega chimney is cranked up to blazes.

I have heard it said many times that stove pipe should not be run more than 15' high under any conditions and anyway, I'm sure code doesn't allow for stove pipe to penetrate the first ceiling. From the point that you leave the space, a class A chimney is required. If you are in a rural area with loose code requirement and you have no insurance, then it may be on your head. Using the class A is safe and it will help the performance of the system (drafting well, keeping creosote out by keeping the flue gas temperature elevated and offering protection from inadvertant chimney fire).

There are further requirements for mechanical supports on class A spans more than a certain distance (20ft ?) and the same may also apply to stove pipe. Bear in mind that regular stove pipe is hardly structural at all. Even with the 3 screws/joint, it is more holding itself together than offering any support at all to the class A pipe above.

 

[Jags]

Thanks for the response KeithO, but I think if I use class A from the stove up, going through the ceiling of the man cave should not be a problem, but I am surely no pipe expert.


Edit: sorry, I re-read your response. I was using "stove pipe" in reference to class A. I know they are not the same, but once again that shows my ignorance on exhausting a stove.

 

[elkimmeg]

Jags I have to go back and read your post again To answer your questions I will pm you or post later

 

[Gooserider]

From the stove to the ceiling of the cave, you have your choice of pipe material - single or double wall, or Class A. At, or just below the ceiling you will have to transition to Class A, and go through the ceiling with the appropriate pass-through box. You should then go with Class A through the roof, again with the appropriate box, and then up to the height required by the 10-3-2 rule. You MIGHT also need to build some sort of chase around the Class A between the ceiling and the roof, I'm not sure... A straight up inside chimney is FAR superior to any kind of exterior setup, I wouldn't even consider going outside if it can be avoided. While 28' is tall, and you will probably benefit from a stack damper, it isn't that far outside the norm either.

Sounds like a nice setup, good luck with it.

Gooserider

 

[KeithO]

Just pay a visit to the local store for stove pipe (locally Menards is the best) and get a close up and personal look at stove pipe, double wall and Class A pipe. Make sure you don't mix up pellet vent and class B (for gas appliances) in the mix. That stuff is made for low temperatures and generally isn't stainless steel. The differences between the various materials will become really clear. At Menards, double wall is nearly as expensive as class A. The Menards Class A at $57/3ft is really good value for money. The ring clamps for it that cost $6/ea are great value as compared to the sucky procedure of using sheet metal screws to fasten the joints. The ring clamps allow easy seperation, reassembly in any orientation (most of us don't drill holes for sheet metal screws to a few thou of 120 degrees) and are really secure for axial forces.