Make your own Combustion Blower Hi Temp Lytherm Gasket from Sheet

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 1, 2010
9,189
Salem NH
Hello

Lytherm gasket material is good to 1,000 Deg or so. That is why Wood Pellet Stove makers use Lytherm. However you do not have to pay $20 to $30 for one gasket when you can make your own gaskets much cheaper.
Example: You can get 4 -- 5-3/4 inch gaskets on one sheet!
That is $1.75 per gasket! YEA ! ! :)
You can get the Lytherm gasket Material sheets from Brunner's Bits and Pieces or E-Bay or Wood Heat and Solar for approx. $7.00

Wow $7.00 per sheet here from Brunner's Bits and Pieces!
http://heiligkuh.com/bbandp/product_info.php?products_id=51&osCsid=7c946df252383294e8515661e3ffd948

Wood Heat and Solar $18.00 per sheet
(broken link removed to http://woodheatstoves.com/lytherm-gasket-by-square-foot-raw-material-p-12444.html)

E-Bay
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pellet-Stove-Gasket-Material-1-8-thick-/190652779019?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c63ca8a0b)

Here is how I did.
I made a Template. You can use paper or cardboard, or posterboard. I used cardboard here.

1. Measure the outside diameter of the Combustion Blower and divide by 2 for the compass setting.
Example: 5-3/4 inches so half is 2-7/8 inches
2. Set the compass to 2-7/8" and draw a circle on the template.
3. Cut out the circle.
4. Reduce the compass setting by 1/2" and draw the inside circle.
5. Cut out the inside circle
6. Put on the blower, check for fit (Trim if needed) and mark bolt holes with felt tip maker, pen or pencil.
7. Use a paper punch to punch out holes in template for bolt holes.
8. Trace template on to one corner of Lytherm Sheet
9. Cut out template
10. Punch holes

Easy Peasy and $ave some money!
Do not worry if it does not come out 100% perfect, it does the job!

See pics below!
 

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I wonder if you could make a steel gasket like a diesel uses.. they reach over 1200 deg on a bad day for exhaust gas temps and dont leak, and can be reused in some cases 2 times
 
I wonder if you could make a steel gasket like a diesel uses.. they reach over 1200 deg on a bad day for exhaust gas temps and dont leak, and can be reused in some cases 2 times

Well since the blowers have motors and vibration, the Lytherm works better to cushion the vibration as well as prevent air escaping. The steel gasket on an engine is more for fluids so not quite the same purpose.
 
There are also high temperature gaskets that provide the cushioning and do not have to be replaced because they do not fall apart when you remove them. Some of the Quadrafire stoves have one as an option.

I just finished making a silicone rubber gasket for my convection blower. This stuff comes in sheets and is available on amazon in various temperature ratings.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...er+sheet&sprefix=silicon+rubber+sheet,aps,200

I will likely find a higher temperature version and make a gasket for my combustion blower when I run out of combustion blower gasket stuff.
 
There are also high temperature gaskets that provide the cushioning and do not have to be replaced because they do not fall apart when you remove them. Some of the Quadrafire stoves have one as an option.

I just finished making a silicone rubber gasket for my convection blower. This stuff comes in sheets and is available on amazon in various temperature ratings.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_20?url=search-alias=industrial&field-keywords=silicon rubber sheet&sprefix=silicon rubber sheet,aps,200

I will likely find a higher temperature version and make a gasket for my combustion blower when I run out of combustion blower gasket stuff.

Hi Smokey

That is good to know!
I recently replaced a stock Magnum Convection blower and the new one came with a Silicon Rubber Gasket on it! Since the room blower does not get as hot, then the Silicon rubber is the way to go because it can be re-used much easier when doing the yearly convection blower cleanings! ! !

Thanks so much!

Most pellet stove blower gaskets are 1/8" thick so is this the one you got?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UME9BU/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
 
Harman part # 3-44-06178, all made, ready to go, for around $5.99 each
 
Hi Smokey

That is good to know!
I recently replaced a stock Magnum Convection blower and the new one came with a Silicon Rubber Gasket on it! Since the room blower does not get as hot, then the Silicon rubber is the way to go because it can be re-used much easier when doing the yearly convection blower cleanings! ! !

Thanks so much!

Most pellet stove blower gaskets are 1/8" thick so is this the one you got?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UME9BU/ref=biss_dp_t_asn


No, my stove uses a 1/16 " gasket on the convection side so I got the 1/16" translucent stuff. Didn't even want to try anything thicker, my stove is stingy on space and doing anything with the convection blower is a skin pealing operation. I won't mention exposed screw points ;) .
 
1/8 inch thick is really thick for any fiber/paper type gasket. Silicone is great for fluid retention or making a gasket that has little to no torque applied to be reusable. just make your new replacement gasket a silcone one by putting a lite even thin coat of high temp silicone on each side and let it dry.
 
I.ve used graphite sheet for cobustion gaskets. About $30 for a sheet that yields 4 gaskets. Only have made one so far, 4 years ago. It lasts a long time. Debating whether or not to make my next burn pot gasket out of this stuff. Available from Grainger and Fastenal.
 
I searched the Harman part # lousyweather posted and it looks like a standard fragile gasket but at least it has a reasonable cost but no dimensions to see if it would fit my Breckwell.
 
I buy www.lynnmfg.com in rolls of 24" x100" x1/8" at $38.00 from my local HVAC and heating store. They have two temperature ratings, 1500 F Ceramic fiber paper part number 9651 and 2300 F part number 9651 (around $10.00 more expensive than lower temperature). Same as Don2222, I have made templates for the burn pot, combustion blower motor and housing from 1/8" plywood, after the template, it is just cut the part you need.

High density board for the 10-CDV is part number 1026 ($130.00) but you can make 6 of them. Low density boards for the 30-NC are from http://www.skylinecomponents.com/In-Stock_CeramicFiber.html, check for price, I have not changed mine in a while. If you want to make you own board, you can use Rutland castable refractory cement part number 600, temperature rating 2200F or kastolite 30 for temperature rating 3000 F. Thermic constant values are very similar in all three products,. However, the castable boards will be heavier.

Bearings for the combustion blower, from Mcmaster-Carr, this bearing has high temperature grease. Be careful with other brands most of them require oil lubrication and do not buy made in china roller skate bearings (from ACE hardware) unless you like to work more often in you combustion blower. As an alternative you can get router bearings which are design for high RPMs and high temperature from your local hardware store.

If your stove is still under warranty use the original products.
 
I buy www.lynnmfg.com in rolls of 24" x100" x1/8" at $38.00 from my local HVAC and heating store. They have two temperature ratings, 1500 F Ceramic fiber paper part number 9651 and 2300 F part number 9651 (around $10.00 more expensive than lower temperature). Same as Don2222, I have made templates for the burn pot, combustion blower motor and housing from 1/8" plywood, after the template, it is just cut the part you need.

High density board for the 10-CDV is part number 1026 ($130.00) but you can make 6 of them. Low density boards for the 30-NC are from http://www.skylinecomponents.com/In-Stock_CeramicFiber.html, check for price, I have not changed mine in a while. If you want to make you own board, you can use Rutland castable refractory cement part number 600, temperature rating 2200F or kastolite 30 for temperature rating 3000 F. Thermic constant values are very similar in all three products,. However, the castable boards will be heavier.

Bearings for the combustion blower, from Mcmaster-Carr, this bearing has high temperature grease. Be careful with other brands most of them require oil lubrication and do not buy made in china roller skate bearings (from ACE hardware) unless you like to work more often in you combustion blower. As an alternative you can get router bearings which are design for high RPMs and high temperature from your local hardware store.

If your stove is still under warranty use the original products.

Great Info - thanks
 
I buy www.lynnmfg.com in rolls of 24" x100" x1/8" at $38.00 from my local HVAC and heating store. They have two temperature ratings, 1500 F Ceramic fiber paper part number 9651 and 2300 F part number 9651 (around $10.00 more expensive than lower temperature). Same as Don2222, I have made templates for the burn pot, combustion blower motor and housing from 1/8" plywood, after the template, it is just cut the part you need.

High density board for the 10-CDV is part number 1026 ($130.00) but you can make 6 of them. Low density boards for the 30-NC are from http://www.skylinecomponents.com/In-Stock_CeramicFiber.html, check for price, I have not changed mine in a while. If you want to make you own board, you can use Rutland castable refractory cement part number 600, temperature rating 2200F or kastolite 30 for temperature rating 3000 F. Thermic constant values are very similar in all three products,. However, the castable boards will be heavier.

Bearings for the combustion blower, from Mcmaster-Carr, this bearing has high temperature grease. Be careful with other brands most of them require oil lubrication and do not buy made in china roller skate bearings (from ACE hardware) unless you like to work more often in you combustion blower. As an alternative you can get router bearings which are design for high RPMs and high temperature from your local hardware store.

If your stove is still under warranty use the original products.

Very nice info.... Thanks.

Nice stoves too. The IP? How do you like that new stove?

The 30-NC is a beast!!! Period..

How do you like the 10-CDV? It was the precursor to the CPM (no igntior) What is the heat exchanger like on it? Is it a firebox surrounded by a larger steel box that air flows between? Or is there tubes in the Firebox? Always wondered? Some of the Older englanders had Tube type heat exchange systems. My 17 yr old Beast Does (PDV/25-5670)
 
DexterDay, The 25-PI is a modified 25-PDV to work as insert (no pedestal and control board located closer to the front in the side panel instead of the back). I really like the 10-CDV with the stirrer feature, no problems with any type of pellets (running in corn mode but with pellet numbers 5-9-1). The heat exchanger is the box type as you are mentioning, no tubes, it is easy to clean. I let it cool down and use a brush (the one use for cleaning sink pipes) to clean all the interior pasages in the box and my shop vac does the rest, manual ignition but no problem, once is on does not shut down in 5-6 days and just because I do not like to see it ashy.
The 30-NC is really a good stove for the price. I run the wood stove first in the basement to heat everything up and then the 10-CDV has not problem keeping the temperature constant at any value. If I really want the basement hotter just add another load in the wood stove and problem solved.
 
My mistake. Englander made a new stove this year. Its the 25-IP.. ;em

I jumped the gun on the PI... :(
 
Can you Just Use High temp silicone for the exhaust blower instead of a gasket? Answer anyone? My stove went down tonight, near 0 windchill. Using space heaters for now. No time to order gaskets:( but I will make sure I have the Lytherm next winter on hand! Someone reply please on the high temp silicone? Thanks!

Oh I have the englander stove 25 PDV I believe, the one with the brass louvers on the front/sides.
 
Can you Just Use High temp silicone for the exhaust blower instead of a gasket? Answer anyone? My stove went down tonight, near 0 windchill. Using space heaters for now. No time to order gaskets:( but I will make sure I have the Lytherm next winter on hand! Someone reply please on the high temp silicone? Thanks!

Oh I have the englander stove 25 PDV I believe, the one with the brass louvers on the front/sides.

Hello

The Hi Temp Silicone is only good fo approx 500 deg F. I will not use it on an exhaust blower. The white Lytherm is good to 1000 Deg F
 
Can you Just Use High temp silicone for the exhaust blower instead of a gasket? Answer anyone?........No time to order gaskets:( but I will make sure I have the Lytherm next winter on hand! Someone reply please on the high temp silicone? Thanks!.......
There is higher temp silicone than the 500 degree stuff Don mentioned, and I guess it can be used in a pinch, but the Lytherm-type gaskets also give a little vibration absorption too....and that's what the factory used, so stay with it if at all possible.

Permatex Red is good up to 650::F....we use it on the header gaskets on our sprint car engines, so I think it will be a good temporary fix.
 
Good tip!

I've been considering getting a half dozen of all the castile gaskets.. Now that I have an inventory comparable to a pellet dealer, I guess it's time to start stocking parts... Fudging sickness!

Anybody think that "red diamond mesh " gasket between the ammo can latches and vent pipe a good candidate for this stuff?

Ty

Ray
 
I actually bought some VersaChem (made by permatex) Mega Copper high temp gasket maker, part #88839 good to 700 degrees. used it for a week now, works great!! Tube will probably last up to who knows how many gaskets. When you redo the gaskets can just scrape off the old with a razor blade. used it on manifolds before, those actually get hotter than a pellet stove. No stove shut downs since, E1 codes gone. When I removed the old gasket from englander stove (fall apart gaskets) it was in 5 pieces when I took off the exhaust blower motor! That may explain the vacuum leaks before I took it apart! Bought the new gasket maker tube at O'reilly auto parts, $5.95 a tube. It actually has copper powder in the silicone. Good luck.
 
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