I've found that the single most polluting phase of using stoves is the kindling operation at start-up....... I'm guessing that 50% of the pollutants are released at that time. This brings to mind that we can minimize these pollutants by better fuel management but maybe also that burning 24/7 would also minimize this since loading only a hot stove (as opposed to letting the fire die and then re-fire) means that much of these pollutants are burned off in secondary combustion or through the cat device. This fact is supported by the Omni Lab study I was reading. Other factors they mentioned is burning well seasoned wood with a moisture contain less than 20% though I've had success at slightly higher levels (22% or so)...... Stove maintenance (gasket replacements and cleaning out fly ash blocking air passages) can also make or break the GPH coming from a stove....same as with maintaining a car.
Maintaining stoves
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There's no doubt that a number of factors play into burning as clean as possible. Maintenance is most certainly near the top of the list. If your stove is not properly maintained (cat is clean, burn tubes not plugged, gaskets in good shape, etc...) it can't possibly function properly.
I think that burning properly seasoned wood is just as, if not more, important. It's next to impossible to get a hot, clean burn from "wet" wood. That's one of the primary reasons that the OWB's get such a bad rap; people will try to burn green wood. With wood dried to between 20% and 25% moisture, it becomes much easier to get the stove burning and up to temperature more quickly and reduce the amount of emission at start up and during the burn cycle. It also helps you to maximize the heat output. If you're using BTUs to dry your wood in the firebox, you're robbing them from your heat output.
While the start up phase does product the most emissions, it's also a very small percentage of the time. From a cold start, I can usually get to a point where there is no visible smoke from the chimney within 15 to 20 minutes. That time is cut down a bit when reloading or restarting a warm stove after an overnight burn, but is not eliminated. I'm sure that running 24/7 does cut down on the "cold" or start up emissions, but since it's such a small percentage of the time I don't know how much it actually helps.
Edit: Is this really ash can material, or could this be in the Hearth or Green forum? Seems like a good topic.
I think that burning properly seasoned wood is just as, if not more, important. It's next to impossible to get a hot, clean burn from "wet" wood. That's one of the primary reasons that the OWB's get such a bad rap; people will try to burn green wood. With wood dried to between 20% and 25% moisture, it becomes much easier to get the stove burning and up to temperature more quickly and reduce the amount of emission at start up and during the burn cycle. It also helps you to maximize the heat output. If you're using BTUs to dry your wood in the firebox, you're robbing them from your heat output.
While the start up phase does product the most emissions, it's also a very small percentage of the time. From a cold start, I can usually get to a point where there is no visible smoke from the chimney within 15 to 20 minutes. That time is cut down a bit when reloading or restarting a warm stove after an overnight burn, but is not eliminated. I'm sure that running 24/7 does cut down on the "cold" or start up emissions, but since it's such a small percentage of the time I don't know how much it actually helps.
Edit: Is this really ash can material, or could this be in the Hearth or Green forum? Seems like a good topic.
Agreed, good topic for the main forum.
The startup phase is the smokiest for me too. I much prefer to keep a fire going continually if the temps permit.
Good to bring up wood moisture as well. Recently I came across a reg in our county that I wasn't aware of. According to the law, it's illegal to sell wood that has greater than 20% moisture content unless there is a specific letter included with the bill warning that the wood is above 20% moisture and informing the buyer that it's against the law to burn wet wood (over 20% moisture).
The startup phase is the smokiest for me too. I much prefer to keep a fire going continually if the temps permit.
Good to bring up wood moisture as well. Recently I came across a reg in our county that I wasn't aware of. According to the law, it's illegal to sell wood that has greater than 20% moisture content unless there is a specific letter included with the bill warning that the wood is above 20% moisture and informing the buyer that it's against the law to burn wet wood (over 20% moisture).
I agree that 24/7 burning causes less emissions, but that isn't always possible especialy in the spring and fall. People need to start off with lots of kindling and small splits for those flash or take the chill off type fires. You can't just throw a fire starter and a few logs in the stove and expect it to light off with no smoke.
It would be a hard call to say that fifteen minutes of smoke a couple of times a day produces less emissions than burning hot 24/7. Even if you can't see it, something is coming out of that stack.
Don't worry a whole bunch about it.
Don't worry a whole bunch about it.
At this point, I'm using my stove probably 9 months out of the year. Probably 6 to 8 weeks each end of the season are just quick fires to take the chill off, meaning fires from start up. That's all I need at those times, so start up smoke is a fact of life if I'm going to use the stove for this purpose. However, I do have control over the moisture content of my wood and how quickly I get it up to good burn off temp. and as such do all I can to minimize the start up smoke. Should I use my furnace and burn oil through those times or stick with the wood? Its my vote for the wood, cause I like it, I can afford it, and I'll bet the "dust to dust" environmental cost is pretty equivalant to fossil fuel.
Time to start thinging about a stove tune up. We all know this can be a messy job.
I think BB mentioned he uses drywall filters in his shop vac. He also mentioned in some post to remove fire bricks and all the easy to remove members
like botton plates. One wants to extract as much as possible ash and fly ash. This is the best way to renew top preformance for your stove
Examining gaskets possibly the dollar bill testing is another step that should be taken. Naturally your chimney should be cleaned first.
I take it a step further clean your connector pipes, especially where bends are. I take mine apart and clean it outside the home. A rag stuffed in both ends prevent a lot of in.house mess
I think BB mentioned he uses drywall filters in his shop vac. He also mentioned in some post to remove fire bricks and all the easy to remove members
like botton plates. One wants to extract as much as possible ash and fly ash. This is the best way to renew top preformance for your stove
Examining gaskets possibly the dollar bill testing is another step that should be taken. Naturally your chimney should be cleaned first.
I take it a step further clean your connector pipes, especially where bends are. I take mine apart and clean it outside the home. A rag stuffed in both ends prevent a lot of in.house mess
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