Had our fireplace chimney cleaned and inspected and they found cracked flue tiles and some missing mortar. The company suggested a $6 to $8k fix... or suggested I install an insert. I am entirely new to wood burning inserts - not clear to me what features are available/desirable, related costs, etc. Any help would be appreciated.
Looking for wood burning insert recommendations
- Thread starter Buckeye Man
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The chimney needs an insulated, stainless steel liner to make it safe. Did they give you a quote on that?
An insert is typically connected to a 6" liner which is much less expensive. There are several variations of insert depending on the buyer's requirements. An insert will be dramatically more efficient and clean burning than an open fire in a fireplace. That means a lot more heat from each fire.
How often do you burn a fire? Is the heat important, like in a power outage or is this more to enjoy an occasional fire for the viewing?
An insert is typically connected to a 6" liner which is much less expensive. There are several variations of insert depending on the buyer's requirements. An insert will be dramatically more efficient and clean burning than an open fire in a fireplace. That means a lot more heat from each fire.
How often do you burn a fire? Is the heat important, like in a power outage or is this more to enjoy an occasional fire for the viewing?
Typically we'd have a fire about three nights a week. If we get an insert, where it can contribute to heating the house, I can see having a fire on most days. We would like to be able to see the fire.
Wisco Shepherd
Minister of Fire
There are lots of good inserts out there but usually best place to start are the dimensions of your firebox. Photos always help.
One thing to note, modern stoves require really dry wood (stuff that has been cut split and stacked for 2 years or so). Stuff that burnt fine in your fireplace may not burn as well in an insert due to the restricted air flow which increases the inserts efficiency and make sure heat goes into the house not up the chimney. If you have a stash of wood it would be suggested to get a moisture meter and learn how to use it early on.
One thing to note, modern stoves require really dry wood (stuff that has been cut split and stacked for 2 years or so). Stuff that burnt fine in your fireplace may not burn as well in an insert due to the restricted air flow which increases the inserts efficiency and make sure heat goes into the house not up the chimney. If you have a stash of wood it would be suggested to get a moisture meter and learn how to use it early on.
![[Hearth.com] Looking for wood burning insert recommendations](/talk/data/attachments/332/332760-7eb37eb6e3d63f46007c3ce90b5aca3a.jpg?hash=XWhJmryhhp)
Wisco Shepherd
Minister of Fire
You should be able to fit a lot in there. Drolet, Pacific energy, blaze king, kuma, Osborn are all respected inserts in my book.
I think that because the high spots on masonry on the face of the firebox have been ground down (see the pic).
I see a lot of models have a wide, flat black "band" around the stove - I guess to fill the gap between the stove and the masonry. I don't really like the look of those bands. Or is that just the nature of the beast?
Wisco Shepherd
Minister of Fire
I would look at Firebox size, Catalyst or no Catalyst if that's important to you, local installer availability, aesthetics,. All of these are good brands that are well respected on this website so you can't particularly go wrong that probably the most important thing is sizing it correctly for your home generally you can build smaller fires in a larger stove and it's better to not run too small of a stove but don't just go get a gigantic one the small fires big stove thing only works to a certain extent.
So inserts are not a DIY deal I take it.
I was assuming I'd get the biggest stove I can fit in my fireplace.
Are catalyst something typically required by local code?
I was assuming I'd get the biggest stove I can fit in my fireplace.
Are catalyst something typically required by local code?
One can diy an insert.
A catalyst is not required; requirements (if any) pertain to efficiency and emissions.
The biggest one may roast you out of the room.
How big is the room and how is it connected to the rest of the home? And how big is the rest?
How is the home insulated/sealed? (How old is it.)
A catalyst is not required; requirements (if any) pertain to efficiency and emissions.
The biggest one may roast you out of the room.
How big is the room and how is it connected to the rest of the home? And how big is the rest?
How is the home insulated/sealed? (How old is it.)
Room where the fireplace is is open to dining room and kitchen. Total open area is about 350 sq ft. Stairway to upstairs joins this open area. Upstairs is 450 sq ft.
Home is ~60 yrs old. Attic is insulated but walls are not. They are brick on block.
Home is ~60 yrs old. Attic is insulated but walls are not. They are brick on block.
All modern inserts have ceramic glass windows. The insert may help heat the rest of the house or just parts of it. That depends on the floor plan. Open floorplans with a centrally located stove often work best for overall heat distribution.
![[Hearth.com] Looking for wood burning insert recommendations](/talk/data/attachments/332/332769-f4defce8be83cc446cb95cba908bfcf9.jpg?hash=eJVp2GcDmQ)
Are there features of higher-end "Cadillac" models that are something I should consider... that may not be available on less expensive models? Or is there even that much variability between makes/models?
Yes, there are. The Osburn 2000 has a stronger C-Cast baffle and some other deluxe details compare to the Drolet. There are also Regency and Pacific Energy non-cat inserts to consider. Then there are hybrids by several makers. Iin catalytic there are Blaze King inserts.
My existing fireplace was similar to yours. I went with the Hearthstone Clydesdale catalyst model. Self installed start to finish. The 6" SS insulated liner was relatively easy to install. This is my third season with it and we love it. I went with it because it can project out into the room more than other inserts, can handle longer logs, and has a large window. I made a spreadsheet comparison of all the relevant inserts with specs, tax credits, and costs, and it won out. I was also concerned about power outages and wanted heat to get out easily. I had more to do with the chimney and, with the help of Youtube, did my own tuckpointing, replaced bricks, poured a new chimney cap, extended the flues, and added caps/covers, etc.. Saved a ton of money on the whole deal and it wasn't too bad. At the time we got some pretty good tax credits due to the high efficiency model. Not sure if that's still a thing.
Oh and determine your chimney height to make sure it will be enough for the stove you end up with so you get proper function. My Clydesdale had a min of 13' I think and I was right there or a bit shy so I raised mine in my rebuild of the cap and flues.
Oh and determine your chimney height to make sure it will be enough for the stove you end up with so you get proper function. My Clydesdale had a min of 13' I think and I was right there or a bit shy so I raised mine in my rebuild of the cap and flues.
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It’s the baffle that goes above the secondary burn tubes. It directs the flue gases and flames toward the front part of the stove and up. My Drolets baffle is vermiculite very light and seems fragile but have had no issues with it. Not really a dealbreaker for this type of baffle in my opinion.
Here is a pic. Without it. My wife prefers the trim on.
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