I just found the data plate on our primary stove. Out of curiosity, I checked the Wiki, and did a search, but didn't find much.
This thread mentions a Pro-former-Z stove, but it doesn't seem like the same stove, as I don't seem to have the controls mentioned, but there really isn't much data in that thread.
I am not totally sure about how one tells a wood stove from a wood / coal stove, but this one is a wood only model I think. It has no grates or ash pan, just a solid bottom that is lined with fire brick on the bottom and part of the front and back. The combustion chamber itself is sort of cylindrical, but the stove body comes up a little higher on the back and sides and comes across with a flat top to make an air jacket around the combustion chamber box. There is a blower in the back that moves air through the jacket and sends it out into the room.
The data plate on the stove we have says it is a "Pro-Former" made by Pro-Former Engineering Corp., Model Z, Tested 8/15/79 by the Arnold Greene Testing Labs in Natick, MA. Test Standards - ANSI-UL737 and UL1482, Clearance to Combustibles 14" rear, 36" side
The stove is fairly low, but wide (~28" max log length) and has very few controls. There are two spin knobs that cover draft openings, one in the door that appears to direct it's air down to the bottom of the fire-box, and one above the side loading door that apparently feeds into a channel that runs across the top of the stove and dumps air in from above. There is a butterfly damper in the chimney exit, and that's almost it.
The stove has a window in the front, but directly behind the window there is a curved steel shutter that can be either pulled up and latched to look into the window, or dropped down accross the window opening to make the stove a sort of air-tight model. There is a little lever on the side that latches or releases the shutter.
The flue opens directly into the main combustion chamber, and exits horizontally out the top rear center of the stove.
Does anyone have any more info on this stove? I wouldn't mind having a manual for it so that I could see if there are any operation tricks that would let me get more heat / longer burn times / less wood consumption, or whatever out of it.
Currently I keep the shutter down all the time. When lighting, I open both spinners and the butterfly dramper, build a fire with the usual paper, kindling and splits, then light it off. Once the fire catches and is burning well I shut both spinners off, and close the butterfly damper almost totally. If I don't the flue temps go way to high. If I shut it down when the flue pipe surface thermometer is around 300 or so it might go up to about 500-600 over the next hour or two, then drop back down to under 250. I'm hoping this will keep the creosote from building up too much.
Thanks
ART
This thread mentions a Pro-former-Z stove, but it doesn't seem like the same stove, as I don't seem to have the controls mentioned, but there really isn't much data in that thread.
I am not totally sure about how one tells a wood stove from a wood / coal stove, but this one is a wood only model I think. It has no grates or ash pan, just a solid bottom that is lined with fire brick on the bottom and part of the front and back. The combustion chamber itself is sort of cylindrical, but the stove body comes up a little higher on the back and sides and comes across with a flat top to make an air jacket around the combustion chamber box. There is a blower in the back that moves air through the jacket and sends it out into the room.
The data plate on the stove we have says it is a "Pro-Former" made by Pro-Former Engineering Corp., Model Z, Tested 8/15/79 by the Arnold Greene Testing Labs in Natick, MA. Test Standards - ANSI-UL737 and UL1482, Clearance to Combustibles 14" rear, 36" side
The stove is fairly low, but wide (~28" max log length) and has very few controls. There are two spin knobs that cover draft openings, one in the door that appears to direct it's air down to the bottom of the fire-box, and one above the side loading door that apparently feeds into a channel that runs across the top of the stove and dumps air in from above. There is a butterfly damper in the chimney exit, and that's almost it.
The stove has a window in the front, but directly behind the window there is a curved steel shutter that can be either pulled up and latched to look into the window, or dropped down accross the window opening to make the stove a sort of air-tight model. There is a little lever on the side that latches or releases the shutter.
The flue opens directly into the main combustion chamber, and exits horizontally out the top rear center of the stove.
Does anyone have any more info on this stove? I wouldn't mind having a manual for it so that I could see if there are any operation tricks that would let me get more heat / longer burn times / less wood consumption, or whatever out of it.
Currently I keep the shutter down all the time. When lighting, I open both spinners and the butterfly dramper, build a fire with the usual paper, kindling and splits, then light it off. Once the fire catches and is burning well I shut both spinners off, and close the butterfly damper almost totally. If I don't the flue temps go way to high. If I shut it down when the flue pipe surface thermometer is around 300 or so it might go up to about 500-600 over the next hour or two, then drop back down to under 250. I'm hoping this will keep the creosote from building up too much.
Thanks
ART
