Looking for feedback of the PE Alderlea T6 LE

[tsh2002]

Hello. I'm starting to research a second stove for our home, we currently have a BK Ashford 30.2 on our main floor and love it, going on season 2 with it this year. I am now looking for a second stove in our basement and am considering a non-CAT this time. I've been looking at the Alderlea T6 LE since it has similar specs to the Ashford, and have read the literature and manual, but it doesn't go in to a lot of detail, so looking for some feedback of T6 owners if possible. Since I'm familiar with the Ashford 30 already, I'm wondering about the below:

1) What kind of air flow or damper system does the T6 use? I'm very much familiar with the Ashford's control which is excellent, but wondering how the T6 compares with this.
2) What are some of the real burn times experienced with the T6 (just in general, I know there are many factors)? I wouldn't expect it to be quite as long as the Ashford, but wondering how close it would/could be.
3) I would want to use an OAK with the T6, but where does it hook to, on the bottom, or back? I'm unable to find much info on an OAK for this stove, but assuming it just takes a standard 4" connection?
4) How exactly does the ash removal system work? It sounds like there's a hole in the bottom of the firebox (if so, it would be similar to the Ashford). The manual has instructions on how to use it, but it's hard for me to understand exactly how it works or what it looks like.

Again I really appreciate it, this forum is always very helpful.

 

[MongoMongoson]

I have a Summit LE which has the same internals as the T6. The air control is very simple. It has "boost" air which is not adjustable to feed the base of the fire near the door. This is a small percentage of the air flow. A lever on the front opens or closes the air intake holes underneath. There is no thermostat so you control the primary air manually.

It has an "EBT" system (extended burn time) which cuts some of the draft when the vacuum gets high enough. I can hear it quietly clinking under the right conditions.

Secondary air runs up the back wall of the stove into the stainless baffle. Holes in the baffle present that air to the top of the fire.

It is an easy breathing stove and we ended up installing a pipe damper for when it wants to run away. I also blocked the boost air. We have about 24 feet to the chimney cap.

I don't have the ash drawer, so I cannot speak to it.

We can get 8-10 hour burns with plenty of coals to start with even after 12 hours.

How do you plan to have an OAK in the basement? It cannot go up. It has to stay below the level of the air intake.

 

[tsh2002]

How do you plan to have an OAK in the basement? It cannot go up. It has to stay below the level of the air intake.

Unfortunately, our air intake comes in above where the stove would be in the basement, about 7 ft high and comes down and just behind where the stove would be. It is all metal duct to the outside and wrapped with fiberglass insulation, but yes I do understand that some stoves are required to have this below the stove. I have been looking at possible workarounds by adding an air gap in the duct just behind the stove or figure out a way to prevent backdraft.

 

[kborndale]

The only way to get around it and still pass code is to get a stove that specifically says it is ok to be higher. Any workaround you can up with would not meet code. I'm not saying it will or not be safe, just saying it won't meet code.