Liquid spray on hot stove glass=

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Beetle-Kill

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Sep 8, 2009
1,849
Colorado- near the Divide
An earlier incident left me wondering- How much liquid can a hot piece of stove glass take, before cracking?

(prior thread killer, PM me)
 
0.156 ounces.

J/K. In all honesty, I have no clue and I can't see anyone else having one either.

I'll say this general statement however: The hotter the glass is, the greater the chance you have of breaking it by spraying a liquid on it.

Most stove manufactures say in their brochures not to clean the glass when "hot".

If company is coming over in the winter I've been known to open the door when the stove is down to coals, let it cool in the room air for about 5 mins, then clean quickly.

I haven't broken the glass yet but that's not to say it won't happen next time.

pen
 
pen said:
0.156 ounces

pen
How does that work out , on the total sq./in. of a standard glass surface? Say the basic, exposed area is 9.75"hx 15".5w. Or were you goofing...?
Edit- saw the update, will work it out in my slow head after a bit. Thanks.
 
pen said:
0.156 ounces.

J/K. In all honesty, I have no clue and I can't see anyone else having one either.

I'll say this general statement however: The hotter the glass is, the greater the chance you have of breaking it by spraying a liquid on it.

Most stove manufactures say in their brochures not to clean the glass when "hot".

If company is coming over in the winter I've been known to open the door when the stove is down to coals, let it cool in the room air for about 5 mins, then clean quickly.

I haven't broken the glass yet but that's not to say it won't happen next time.

pen

Have found that if you want to do the above, let the door cool down for about 10 minutes. Take a crumpled up chunk of newsprint and lightly wet it. Then dip it in some COOL ash and apply to the glass. Cleans it almost instantly. you can follow up to remove the streaking with a dampened chunk of papertowel. Keep in mind that you dealing with ceramic as opposed to "glass". I wouldn't be spraying any liquid directly onto it when hot.
 
Water cracks hot cast,do you really wanna take a chance on a piece of glass or ceramic worth $100 plus.It can be done but what a chance.If anything use the hottest water you can but i still wouldn't try it.That loud snap will make you sick in 00.78 sec's then you'll have to explain it to us.lol Wish ya luck either way.(If ya don't ask you'll always wonder).
 
rottiman said:
Have found that if you want to do the above, let the door cool down for about 10 minutes. Take a crumpled up chunk of newsprint and lightly wet it. Then dip it in some COOL ash and apply to the glass. Cleans it almost instantly. you can follow up to remove the streaking with a dampened chunk of papertowel. Keep in mind that you dealing with ceramic as opposed to "glass". I wouldn't be spraying any liquid directly onto it when hot.

I don't know how but, a damp towel with a bit of ash works wonders. Much more convenient than storing another bottle of single-purpose cleaner. And I don't think a small damp towel is too risky on hottish glass.
 
The wood ash with water creates lye which is a great cleaner. Woodstock says cleaning hot glass is a big no-no so I don't think about it.


fv
 
Localized hot or cold spots are not a good thing for most anything.. The thermal shock of sudden expansion or contraction will create stress and many times cracking, distortion or possibly shattering .. You make the call..

Ray
 
I remember seeing a video of someone torching ceramic glass then spraying water on it and nothing happens. Must be a certain breaking point but don't know what it is. In the past I have cleaned hot glass with a damp towel and ash.
 
So for you 24/7 burners, I guess you clean the glass in the morning before the reload? Open the door for a while to let it cool down?
 
Beetle-Kill said:
pen said:
0.156 ounces pen
How does that work out , on the total sq./in. of a standard glass surface? Say the basic, exposed area is 9.75"hx 15".5w. Or were you goofing...? Edit- saw the update, will work it out in my slow head after a bit. Thanks.

:lol:

1 oz of prevention is better than the shipping charges on several pounds of new glass ouch.

I'm with the crew above: I just don't go there when it comes to a spray. I try to clean the glass each time I empty the ashes--takes about two minutes maybe. I figure even smoke buildup creates a latice on which further crud can accrue, so even though regular cleaning of glass seems to be a not-too-popular a route here, it's right for me. I figure if I didn't care about seeing through the glass, I could have bought a stove with no window. I'd rather see my fire than a buildup of crud.

Dry wood, of course, is extremely helpful in preventing the need for cleaning. I have been known to do the damp paper towel with extreme caution thing (warms up very quickly, so protect your fingers with a dry one or something) when I see creosote on the glass --it's a lot easier to get that off before it bakes on. Unfortunately, am burning some birch wood that was cut last March, and is not as seasoned as I would prefer, so this is something I'm facing right now. The birch burns fine if I have a hot fire, but cannot persuade my son not to put birch in and then shut the stove down.

Slipped the door off the hinge posts last weekend and left it horizontal with baking powder and white vinegar paste on it--that helps a lot. Still a fair bit of fingerwork to restore it to its former glory. I think it was worth it. Just depends upon what's important to you. Rambling a bit here, but I've had glass on my mind this week because of this, and who else will understand?
 
mhrischuk said:
So for you 24/7 burners, I guess you clean the glass in the morning before the reload? Open the door for a while to let it cool down?

Once a week...when I'm out for the day and the stove has only coals when I get home. Otherwise, the stove is always hot (even in the morning).
 
Todd said:
I remember seeing a video of someone torching ceramic glass then spraying water on it and nothing happens. Must be a certain breaking point but don't know what it is. In the past I have cleaned hot glass with a damp towel and ash.

I was thinking the same thing Todd. This is not glass, it is a high temp ceramic with very low thermal expansion.

"SCHOTT ROBAX® is a material that has close to zero thermal expansion. The glass ceramic allows for large localized temperature gradients and quick temperature fluctuations without breaking."

That said, common sense and safety dictate that you want to let the stove cool down until the door is safe to clean. I usually do this when cleaning out the ashes and don't obsess over the light haze that comes from using the stove 24/7.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass-ceramic
 
mhrischuk said:
So for you 24/7 burners, I guess you clean the glass in the morning before the reload? Open the door for a while to let it cool down?

I will wipe off the white gray ash at the middle and end of season. Usually 2 to 3 month's no fire. A good hot burn with dry wood after each reload is the answer to easy cleaning. Even with this smoldering stove. Only lower corners seem to get accumulation in the shoulder season.
 
Beetle-Kill said:
An earlier incident left me wondering- How much liquid can a hot piece of stove glass take, before cracking?

(prior thread killer, PM me)

Apparently, quite a lot....

[Hearth.com] Liquid spray on hot stove glass=


[Hearth.com] Liquid spray on hot stove glass=



The 'glass' is actually transparent ceramic which has virtually zero thermal expansion - heating / cooling, even at extreme rates - does not produce any stress in the ceramic, so no shattering or breakage. Now, if you close the door on a log, that does make stress and will crack/break the ceramic in short order.
 
Thanks for posting cozy. That's the photo I had in mind.
 
Stated earlier. The safest time is in the AM when you clean out ash. Leave the door open after you are done cleaning ash. After you are done, take a damp, i mean damp, not dripping papertowel, dip it in ash, and rub. Then take another damp papertowel and clean up. Those with ash pans, just do it on the AM reload. This is the coolest time (temp wise) the stove will be IMO.
 
NordicSplitter said:
Just get the stove up to 600 F and you won't have to clean the glass.

I've had my stove up over 800 and there is no black or brown residue on the glass, but white powder that will only come off w/ a damp cloth.

pen
 
I don't bother to clean the glass. I did last year, but it's pointless. It stays clean enough on it's own.

mhrischuk said:
So for you 24/7 burners, I guess you clean the glass in the morning before the reload? Open the door for a while to let it cool down?
 
In that first pic, it looks almost like someone is wasting a perfectly good class of Pilsner. If so, I'm pretty sure that is alcohol abuse.
 
LOL. Alcohol would have some side effects at that temp. What you are looking at I think is the yellow-red hot glass at the tip of the flame and the violent boiling off of water.
 
BeGreen said:
LOL. Alcohol would have some side effects at that temp. What you are looking at I think is the yellow-red hot glass at the tip of the flame and the violent boiling off of water.

I dunno. I see foam/head on the sides of the container with the liquid in the top pic. Someone is pouring out a Natty Light, methinks!
 
Pagey said:
BeGreen said:
LOL. Alcohol would have some side effects at that temp. What you are looking at I think is the yellow-red hot glass at the tip of the flame and the violent boiling off of water.

I dunno. I see foam/head on the sides of the container with the liquid in the top pic. Someone is pouring out a Natty Light, methinks!

Well if you can't drink that skunk pi$$ may as well use it for something..

Ray
 
I don't know the answer to the OP question . . . but I do know that I tend to clean the glass once a week in the morning with a damp rag or newspaper . . . typically no ash is needed . . . usually I do this as my weekly clean up, ash dump, etc.
 
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