Liner shopping advice
- Thread starter sadpanda
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I really prefer heavy wall liners for wood but regular light wall will work ok. Avoid the doublewall smooth inner crap.
Easy Livin’ 3000
Minister of Fire
Bholler- You should either become a web retailer (I know, this would be a pain in the ass), or start to advise the existing web retailers (which you sort of are already doing, here, if they'd get with the program).
Ive been reading your advice to avoid the double wall smooth for years now, but they keep selling it and people keep buying it and asking about it.
In concept, it sounds good, which is why it survives. And, most buyers don't see the outcome like you do.
rox3406
Burning Hunk
That double wall is like tin foil wrapped around slightly thicker tin foil. Heavy single wall is one nice solid thick wall
thanks for the advice. I would prefer straight pipe instead of flex but I'm not sure I can make it... Maybe with a piece of ovalized or a block off plate and a short section of flex. gonna take another look today.
Ok but what liner you have listed is rigid pipe? The specs all look like flex to me.
I had an insulated flex previously.
the little pricing comparison I posted was for flex.
However I think I can get solid pipe down there... Looks like Woodland direct has .025" 304/316 stainless single wall for $432/$624 respectively. Thats a fair bit cheaper then the heavy wall flex.
the little pricing comparison I posted was for flex.
However I think I can get solid pipe down there... Looks like Woodland direct has .025" 304/316 stainless single wall for $432/$624 respectively. Thats a fair bit cheaper then the heavy wall flex.
DuraLiner comes in insulated rigid. It will still need the last few feet to be flex to line up with the insert flue outlet. They make parts for the whole system.
http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=6
http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=6
Yes rigid is cheaper than heavywall but it is a pita to install with no real benifit. Actually with your voncern about excessive draft standard light wall will cause as much restriction as going down to 5.5 if the 5.5 is smooth
even if its insulated? Pretty sure I'm required to insulate because I'm relining a 'faulty' chimney.
I figured creosote buildup would be significantly less from the smooth wall.
As far as installation, I've got a slight kink (smoke shelf?) 1ft up or so but with a little bit of work I think I can get the straight pipe down there. You can ovalize that as need yes?
Also solid pipe will require some sort of shelf with a telescoping or flex section at the end for the stove right?
Yes i would always recomend insulation. We never install a liner without insulation. And yes the corregations offer a fair ammount of resistance about equal to downsizing by .5 inches. I dont use lightwall for wood stoves but it would offer you some extra resistance. I still dont understand why you have such excessive draft though.
Rigid is hung from the top just line any other liner and yes you would need a peice of flex on the bottom which is part of the rigid lining system. The only system i know of that offers this is duraliner. But there may be others
Given the back and forth in the other thread, I think I will reuse/extend the old liner for the time being... That way I can cheaply experiment with restrictors and see how it is going to draft with all the new windows installed etc..
My original sweep was not going to insulate the liner so I do not think it is required for the UL rating but I was under the impression that insulation was required if the existing terracotta is broken/cracked etc. Can you confirm?
Insulation requirement has absolutly nothing to do with the condition or even existence of clay liners. What matters is ul listing and clearances to combustibles from the outside of the masonry chimney structure. Internal chimneys need 2" external need 1". Sadley many sweeps and installers are more concered about their bottom line than doing it right so they install uninsulated. That keeps their end price down which means more sales and it takes less time so they can do multiple liners a day.
And here is the interesting thing... an internal chimney needs 2" to non combustibles yes? If I install a liner inside a masonry structure there is no combustible material any where around.
Well the roof is going to have combustible materials. That chimney structure has to atleast pass through the roof if it is internal. And it is extremely rare to see the required clearances to combustibles.
I extended the masonry to above code requirements so its stone all the way up and out
Ok but what about where that masonry meets the house in the form of roof ceilings floors etc?
Then insulation is required that is the only way you can have combustibles touching the chimney structure. With a couple exceptions like trim c as n touch the corners as long as the inner face of the liner is atleast 12" from that corner
That rule is there because fires have happened due to heat transfer through masonry like yours
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