QUESTIONS:
1) Can I install a custom block off plate at bottom of a 8" round liner, but not get it all the way to the damper... just a few inches above damper where I can reach it through the damper frame? I'd most likelye use another 8" oval liner with another block off plate at the damper coming from the stove. This area is masonry and would be like an unlined "bubble" at the smoke shelf of my otherwise totally lined chimney, sort of like a snake that just had a big meal. (See below for an ASCII "diagram" of the existing no liner / 13" clay liner setup.)
2) If the above is a bad idea, are there better ideas out there?
Background
I'm a DIY guy, and don't agree with my sweep's idea of destroying my 5" deep damper to get the chimney lined. Am I wrong? Please let me know what you think.
I don't want to tear my house or even my existing damper apart. I have seen videos on BobVilla.com, but he whole house is torn apart... (sure better than burning down though). I don't think it's worth the effort, mess, or damage to my mostly original 80 year old historic home.
I have some questions below ... after you understand my chimney setup...
My ~40 foot high chimney is shaped like this:
-------------------------------------
Stainless cap
| 13"|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
\ \ | Angled brick section below clay narrows at top – too small for 8” oval
\ \ | So can’t get 8” oval to bottom from top, or up to clay from bottom
\ \ |___
\ \ |
---- --------| 5 inch deep cast damper opening (I don’t remove frame, just damper)
/ --------| Lentil attached to damper appears to support mantle brick
/
/
| Fireplace with insert on 80 year old tile floor with ash pit below.
|_____________
More info / background:
My stove requires 8", and I'd like to install 8" Stainless. I'm not opposed to using rigid for the top section, and wonder if it might be easier because I could assemble sections at top as opposed to trying to straighten out flex while dropping it down.
I want to use a top boot with an 8" oval output. I've had 8" oval through my damper and it's a nice tight squeeze. I had to cut the 4-5 foot section because the (~foot wide) sides were hitting the brick on that slanted up toward the straight clay liner. (That was some good experience before purchasing the materials.)
Any thoughts or ideas?
1) Can I install a custom block off plate at bottom of a 8" round liner, but not get it all the way to the damper... just a few inches above damper where I can reach it through the damper frame? I'd most likelye use another 8" oval liner with another block off plate at the damper coming from the stove. This area is masonry and would be like an unlined "bubble" at the smoke shelf of my otherwise totally lined chimney, sort of like a snake that just had a big meal. (See below for an ASCII "diagram" of the existing no liner / 13" clay liner setup.)
2) If the above is a bad idea, are there better ideas out there?
Background
I'm a DIY guy, and don't agree with my sweep's idea of destroying my 5" deep damper to get the chimney lined. Am I wrong? Please let me know what you think.
I don't want to tear my house or even my existing damper apart. I have seen videos on BobVilla.com, but he whole house is torn apart... (sure better than burning down though). I don't think it's worth the effort, mess, or damage to my mostly original 80 year old historic home.
I have some questions below ... after you understand my chimney setup...
My ~40 foot high chimney is shaped like this:
-------------------------------------
Stainless cap
| 13"|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
\ \ | Angled brick section below clay narrows at top – too small for 8” oval
\ \ | So can’t get 8” oval to bottom from top, or up to clay from bottom
\ \ |___
\ \ |
---- --------| 5 inch deep cast damper opening (I don’t remove frame, just damper)
/ --------| Lentil attached to damper appears to support mantle brick
/
/
| Fireplace with insert on 80 year old tile floor with ash pit below.
|_____________
More info / background:
My stove requires 8", and I'd like to install 8" Stainless. I'm not opposed to using rigid for the top section, and wonder if it might be easier because I could assemble sections at top as opposed to trying to straighten out flex while dropping it down.
I want to use a top boot with an 8" oval output. I've had 8" oval through my damper and it's a nice tight squeeze. I had to cut the 4-5 foot section because the (~foot wide) sides were hitting the brick on that slanted up toward the straight clay liner. (That was some good experience before purchasing the materials.)
Any thoughts or ideas?