I was wondering if anyone has actually seen a lil powerhouse boiler? The website is www.lilpowerhouse.com. I have been looking for an inexpensive boiler for my house and was wanting some input on these. I don't know if it would be a good unit or if it is just a lot of talk. I thought picking out a boiler would be a pretty straight forward project, but there are so many choices I'm started to go nuts. Thanks in advance.
Lil Powerhouse Boiler?
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Hmmm...if all of the below statements from their website were true I think they would be putting a lot of other boiler manufacturers out of business...32 hour burn time??? Turbosized draft fan??? All of this with a 4" flue connection....
Q. Why Does the Lil Powerhouse burn so much less wood than outdoor wood
furnaces ?
_______________________________________________________
A. Combustion takes time, temperature, turbulence, and the proper fuel to air
ration. Our turbosized draft is designed to produce the most perfect combustion
which in turn produces more than twice the firebox temperature with less than or
comparable chimney temperatures.
Q. What happens if I don’t fire the Lil’ Powehouse? Will it freeze up like an
outdoor boiler and water stove?
_______________________________________________________________
A. No. This is a non toxic antifreeze system designed to be fired only when you
want the heat.
Q. What kind of burn times can I expect?
______________________________________________________________
A. One customer heats 3500 sq feet of house burning dry oak. He gets 32 hour
burn time in the dead of winter.
Q. Why Does the Lil Powerhouse burn so much less wood than outdoor wood
furnaces ?
_______________________________________________________
A. Combustion takes time, temperature, turbulence, and the proper fuel to air
ration. Our turbosized draft is designed to produce the most perfect combustion
which in turn produces more than twice the firebox temperature with less than or
comparable chimney temperatures.
Q. What happens if I don’t fire the Lil’ Powehouse? Will it freeze up like an
outdoor boiler and water stove?
_______________________________________________________________
A. No. This is a non toxic antifreeze system designed to be fired only when you
want the heat.
Q. What kind of burn times can I expect?
______________________________________________________________
A. One customer heats 3500 sq feet of house burning dry oak. He gets 32 hour
burn time in the dead of winter.
That website is so full of misinformation (softwood has a greater heating value than hardwood?) and lack in information (type of steel used; construction, warranty, certifications, etc.) that basically all they're selling is dreams and hype, from what I can see.
If you want a good, conventional and relatively inexpensive boiler that will perform and last, you can do a lot better. One that I owned was the Marathon Logwood. There are others. This one looks like a real crap shoot to me.
If you want a good, conventional and relatively inexpensive boiler that will perform and last, you can do a lot better. One that I owned was the Marathon Logwood. There are others. This one looks like a real crap shoot to me.
Per pound pine is hotter than oak but you have to use a lot more bulk to get the weight. Even so I liked their "Why Us" page and #"16. Lil Powerhouse using small dry wood saves you from the uncostly expenses of chiropractic bills resulting from handling huge logs or heavy green logs." ...How do you save money when it is uncostly?
Funny really.
My Favorite: "Air to fuel ratio is expressed as the massive air used to burn a unit mass of fuel. Air
to fuel ration is important for accomplishing efficient combustion."
My Favorite: "Air to fuel ratio is expressed as the massive air used to burn a unit mass of fuel. Air
to fuel ration is important for accomplishing efficient combustion."
The first design of this boiler was a bolt together including the fire box, it was a flop they may have changed it but you
won't see one in my backyard a 30 year old Tarm is ten times the unit of one of these powerhouses brand new...Dave
won't see one in my backyard a 30 year old Tarm is ten times the unit of one of these powerhouses brand new...Dave
Finally someone made a boiler I can use in my treestand! 
Although I think my chemical hand warmers may give me more reliable heat.
Although I think my chemical hand warmers may give me more reliable heat.
I've noticed that some of these marginal boiler mfgs. and dealers tend to resort to spewing nonsense and irrelevant information to try to obscure the fact that their product is, at best, nothing new. It's the old "baffle them with bullsiht" sales approach. There's an old thread around here somewhere from a Taylor dealer on Ebay that's a classic example of that.
Here, I found the thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/11205/
Here's what the dealer told me when I asked about the overall efficiency of his boiler:
“I know there are a number of rating systems for the efficiency of a wood burning stove- but publishing a rating without pages of qualifications really isn’t fair to a regular person without ASHTO access and the ability to interpret the results. Taylors are rated between 87 and 93 percent efficient- based on a number of test conditions. That being sais- anyone can understand that the bigger the water capacity of the stove the more efficient it is in wood useage since it’s the water that stores the heat. Taylor and the various knock-offs have the largest water capacity in the industry. We heated a 2600 sf home in NH, had plenty of hot water and provided over 200 gallons of hot water to our horses in the NH winter, using a Taylor 260- so small it’s not made anymore- and 3 cords of mixed green unsplit hardwoods A YEAR.....It’s the water that does it......more water = less wood.”
So there you have it, folks--more water = less wood.
Here, I found the thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/11205/
Here's what the dealer told me when I asked about the overall efficiency of his boiler:
“I know there are a number of rating systems for the efficiency of a wood burning stove- but publishing a rating without pages of qualifications really isn’t fair to a regular person without ASHTO access and the ability to interpret the results. Taylors are rated between 87 and 93 percent efficient- based on a number of test conditions. That being sais- anyone can understand that the bigger the water capacity of the stove the more efficient it is in wood useage since it’s the water that stores the heat. Taylor and the various knock-offs have the largest water capacity in the industry. We heated a 2600 sf home in NH, had plenty of hot water and provided over 200 gallons of hot water to our horses in the NH winter, using a Taylor 260- so small it’s not made anymore- and 3 cords of mixed green unsplit hardwoods A YEAR.....It’s the water that does it......more water = less wood.”
So there you have it, folks--more water = less wood.
I think you guys are jealous because:
"One customer heats 3500 sq feet of house burning dry oak. He gets 32 hour
burn time in the dead of winter."
"One customer heats 3500 sq feet of house burning dry oak. He gets 32 hour
burn time in the dead of winter."
Actually, I want the boiler that's so small it's not made anymore. You know, the one that heated a 2,600 square foot house in New Hampshire plus all the DHW and 200 gallons of water a day for horses--on 3 cords of wood. I'm guessing the loggers' union got that model discontinued.
Heck Iam fine with just the 32 hr thing. Hedge sould be good for a week to 10 days!Eric Johnson said:
CZARCAR said:
Air to fuel ratio is the MASS of air to mass of fuel. Massive air? What is "Air to fuel ration"? Also A/F by itself only tells you how much air to how much fuel. Stoichiometric A/F is the chemically perfect ratio of air to fuel for complete combustion, so being able to control A/F is important - maybe that's what he was trying to say. Who knows, anyways I guess my point was, besides it being filled with mindless rambling, the spelling & grammar are pretty bad.
I would say that mindless rambling pretty much sums it up. He could have said: "This boiler is designed to burn wood" and imparted the same amount of useful information.
Air to fuel ratio is the MASS of air to mass of fuel. Massive air? What is "Air to fuel ration"? Also A/F by itself only tells you how much air to how much fuel. Stoichiometric A/F is the chemically perfect ratio of air to fuel for complete combustion, so being able to control A/F is important - maybe that's what he was trying to say. Who knows, anyways I guess my point was, besides it being filled with mindless rambling, the spelling & grammar are pretty bad.[/quote]
I wouldn't judge the outfit in spelling and grammar. If we did, we would never have purchased an Eko after seeing to printed material coming from New Horizons!
I wouldn't judge the outfit in spelling and grammar. If we did, we would never have purchased an Eko after seeing to printed material coming from New Horizons!
I was waiting to read on the page for those extra cold nights just put in a 12 pack of bud the alcohol injection will increase thermo out put for an extra kick insertjim beam.......................... GIT R DONE
Hi all I am the manufacture of the LILPOWERHOUSE outdoor wood fired hydronic heater and would be happy to answer questions for you!! I will direct you to government sites that will give you good answers on facts of burning wood if you desire!! After finding and reading this site I find good answers in those who do thier research and humor in those who don't!! I really like the one that referances storing heat in water as being better than leaving the energy stored in the wood!! Set a pail of hot water outside and see how long it stay's hot!! Then through a log of wood outside today and burn it tommorow it still gives you hot water tomorrow!! Not really rocket science!!
Thanks for posting in the boiler room and informing people like me about the product..I do have a few questions..
Is your boiler a "bolt together"?? If you changed this design WHY?? Does your boiler have a secondary chamber where gasification takes place?? Is there any thermal mass in your boiler (or concrete of some sort)?? How many gallons of water is contained in your boiler??Where are you located how avalible are parts for your boiler?? Thanks, Dave
Is your boiler a "bolt together"?? If you changed this design WHY?? Does your boiler have a secondary chamber where gasification takes place?? Is there any thermal mass in your boiler (or concrete of some sort)?? How many gallons of water is contained in your boiler??Where are you located how avalible are parts for your boiler?? Thanks, Dave
TacoSteelerMan
Our boiler is built as a bolt together and called a STD and also as a welded unit and called a WOW !! No secondary chamber as all you need is a temp above 850 deg. in main fire box to burn the gasses! No concreat or better termed refactory brick!! Our hydronic heater holds 25 gallons! We are located in Little Falls Minnesota and parts are always avaiable as they are all jig built so any new part off the jig will fit any old furnace!!
Thanks
Our boiler is built as a bolt together and called a STD and also as a welded unit and called a WOW !! No secondary chamber as all you need is a temp above 850 deg. in main fire box to burn the gasses! No concreat or better termed refactory brick!! Our hydronic heater holds 25 gallons! We are located in Little Falls Minnesota and parts are always avaiable as they are all jig built so any new part off the jig will fit any old furnace!!
Thanks
Hello Cheap Heat-
They say that your advertising has a lot in common with the people on this thread, mindless rambling. :lol:
Is it true that I could expect 32 hour burn times?
Does it have a btu/hr rating?
What kind of accesories does it come with (pumps, fans, controllers, etc.) and what brands are they (reputable)?
What guage/thickness and quality metal is used for the boiler and the firebox?
I agree that gasifiers are way over rated, not that you said that.
What kinda warranty do you respect?
Anything else you can add.
Now would be the perfect time.
Thanks-
Kenny
They say that your advertising has a lot in common with the people on this thread, mindless rambling. :lol:
Is it true that I could expect 32 hour burn times?
Does it have a btu/hr rating?
What kind of accesories does it come with (pumps, fans, controllers, etc.) and what brands are they (reputable)?
What guage/thickness and quality metal is used for the boiler and the firebox?
I agree that gasifiers are way over rated, not that you said that.
What kinda warranty do you respect?
Anything else you can add.
Now would be the perfect time.
Thanks-
Kenny
Hi Kenny how are you!!
The 32 hr burn time is a customer with a super insulated house burning dry cured oak, his house requires less than 50,000 btu's per hr in the dead of winter!! As for you I need to know what type of heat you have forced air ect. as well as how many btu's your current system is rated at!! I also need to know what type of wood you intend to burn! As you can see sq footage means very little it has very little to do with btu demand ! A 500 sq ft house with busted out windows just won't heat well!!
The max btu's per hour rating is 500,000 btu's per hour!! And it will hold that if you keep wood in it!! wow
But the rest of the story is you will have short burn times at this rate as our furnace holds 1.8 million btu's of dry cured oak per fill!! So if you require 100,000 btu's per hour to heat your house you would have a 13 hr burn time with properly insulated lines, as the cheap lines can loose 2-3 times as much heat as a house requires!! We build an efficient furnace so lets not waste the heat in the transfer to the house!!
All components can be purchased from wwgraingers which is a very well know manufacture although we purchase most products direct as an OEM!!
The firebox and water jacket is built from 16 ga. cold rolled steel !! And this is a must to transfer the heat from the firebox to the water as fast as possible !!The heavier the steel used the poorer the transfer and the more heat that goes out the chimney!!
Gasification is a must in building a efficient furnace ! But the european design that has been used in europe for the past 1500 years is not very efficient (better know as down drafts) they will burn clean but it is almost impossible to extract the heat out of the gasses before they exit the furnace!! So we try build for clean air and efficency!!
The what kind of warranty do I respect I'm not sure I follow ! Is this a miss print ? If not please explain so I may answer it to the best of my abillity!!
I can go on for hrs but I don't want to ramble!!
Thanks
Paul
The 32 hr burn time is a customer with a super insulated house burning dry cured oak, his house requires less than 50,000 btu's per hr in the dead of winter!! As for you I need to know what type of heat you have forced air ect. as well as how many btu's your current system is rated at!! I also need to know what type of wood you intend to burn! As you can see sq footage means very little it has very little to do with btu demand ! A 500 sq ft house with busted out windows just won't heat well!!
The max btu's per hour rating is 500,000 btu's per hour!! And it will hold that if you keep wood in it!! wow
But the rest of the story is you will have short burn times at this rate as our furnace holds 1.8 million btu's of dry cured oak per fill!! So if you require 100,000 btu's per hour to heat your house you would have a 13 hr burn time with properly insulated lines, as the cheap lines can loose 2-3 times as much heat as a house requires!! We build an efficient furnace so lets not waste the heat in the transfer to the house!!All components can be purchased from wwgraingers which is a very well know manufacture although we purchase most products direct as an OEM!!
The firebox and water jacket is built from 16 ga. cold rolled steel !! And this is a must to transfer the heat from the firebox to the water as fast as possible !!The heavier the steel used the poorer the transfer and the more heat that goes out the chimney!!
Gasification is a must in building a efficient furnace ! But the european design that has been used in europe for the past 1500 years is not very efficient (better know as down drafts) they will burn clean but it is almost impossible to extract the heat out of the gasses before they exit the furnace!! So we try build for clean air and efficency!!
The what kind of warranty do I respect I'm not sure I follow ! Is this a miss print ? If not please explain so I may answer it to the best of my abillity!!
I can go on for hrs but I don't want to ramble!!
Thanks
Paul
Thanks for all that Paul and by all means, feel free to ramble.
The more I/we know, the better we can judge.
I was inquiring about any warranty.
You say components can be purchased from Graingers? What is included and what is extra?
Thanks Paul-
Ken
The more I/we know, the better we can judge.
I was inquiring about any warranty.
You say components can be purchased from Graingers? What is included and what is extra?
Thanks Paul-
Ken
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