Let's talk about big racks 😘

[Pinesmoke]

Finally getting around to some racks and wanted thoughts.

I'm thinking a 12' long 6' high rack. Using brackets at the bottom and pressure treated 2x4s. The top would have rails on it to support a steel top. (I have a bunch of steel roofing left from the house)

I can build 3 with 8 concrete block under each one for about 250 bucks.

Thoughts.

 

[Murray01]

Why only 12’ long? Just curious

 

[Dieselhead]

For seasoning or staging area to go into your stove?

 

[Gearhead660]

How many rows deep would they be?

 

[Pinesmoke]

Single ricks for seasoning. They would be in the burning sun and wind at my place.

12 could go to 16 easily. Standard lumber length.

Probably have the racks side by side but with walking room between the.

I want to stay single rick for snakes. They really like "piles"

 

[Dieselhead]

Will help season quicker that’s for sure. Just going to take up more real estate. If that’s a non issue try it out. Seems like a cheap experiment.

 

[stoveliker]

I would use cinderblocks under the horizontal ones. No need for PT then (cheaper). Off the ground they'll not rot within the decade.

 

[Pinesmoke]

Using solid cinder blocks. The PT is actually cheaper than blond wood here ATM.

 

[all night moe]

Probably have the racks side by side but with walking room between the

You may want to include enough room for a wheelbarrow/cart. That's if you have the room to spread out a bit more.
That's in part of my planning for drying areas. I look at the designated area and think to myself, "I stack this many cord here and here, for a total of XXX." Then I start to second guess my self for accessibility.

I'm stacking for sales and heating. Different areas for each. As my operation grows I will be changing up seasonally.
Going for full cords (3 face wide/deep), with a half cord on top. 6' high with 2'' space between face cords/ricks. I've been saving 2'' dia STRAIGHT limb wood for stabilizing. These will be laid across the stacks at 2' and 4' high, holding the cords together. Cord rows as long as I can fit in the given area, on pallets with upright pallets on ends. The top 2' of 6 will be criss crossed on the ends.

 

[Pinesmoke]

You may want to include enough room for a wheelbarrow/cart. That's if you have the room to spread out a bit more.
That's in part of my planning for drying areas. I look at the designated area and think to myself, "I stack this many cord here and here, for a total of XXX." Then I start to second guess my self for accessibility.

I'm stacking for sales and heating. Different areas for each. As my operation grows I will be changing up seasonally.
Going for full cords (3 face wide/deep), with a half cord on top. 6' high with 2'' space between face cords/ricks. I've been saving 2'' dia STRAIGHT limb wood for stabilizing. These will be laid across the stacks at 2' and 4' high, holding the cords together. Cord rows as long as I can fit in the given area, on pallets with upright pallets on ends. The top 2' of 6 will be criss crossed on the ends.

Yeah I'll be wider than "walking". Ill have to get wood from them with a side by side.

 

[Dieselhead]

I’m slowly moving and remodeling my wood storage area. I’m spacing my racks out enough for my mower to fit between. I’m getting tired of running the string trimmer between the racks in the summer.

 

[all night moe]

Yeah I'll be wider than "walking". Ill have to get wood from them with a side by side.

I’m slowly moving and remodeling my wood storage area. I’m spacing my racks out enough for my mower to fit between. I’m getting tired of running the string trimmer between the racks in the summer.

Man, burning wood is so much work.
But, it's sooo worth it.

 

[Dieselhead]

Man, burning wood is so much work.
But, it's sooo worth it.

On days like today, it’s all well worth it.

 

[Pinesmoke]

I'm probably going to set mine off the"pad" my place is on, down in the brush area. Last summer was the first I could get decent control of the blackberry bramble and will just have to stay on it.

 

[Pinesmoke]

On days like today, it’s all well worth it.

I know it's get cold tonight up here, my mustache froze walking across the parking lot just now.

 

[all night moe]

I know it's get cold tonight up here, my mustache froze walking across the parking lot just now.

Yup, been there.
Or when I was young in school, out of the shower and out the door for the bus. No time to dry the hair cept a quick towel rub.
Once, leaving school, I missed my bus and caught the next. It dropped me off a neighborhood away on their route. No problem, I'll take the shortcut through the woods. Hop up on the log over the crick. Half way and I slip. Up to my knees. Still 20min walk away. Jeans were crispy stiff and cold. LOL

 

[stoveliker]

Yup, been there.
Or when I was young in school, out of the shower and out the door for the bus. No time to dry the hair cept a quick towel rub.
Once, leaving school, I missed my bus and caught the next. It dropped me off a neighborhood away on their route. No problem, I'll take the shortcut through the woods. Hop up on the log over the crick. Half way and I slip. Up to my knees. Still 20min walk away. Jeans were crispy stiff and cold. LOL

no mustache (frozen or otherwise) back then, I presume

We went by bicycle to school. We never had a snow day. 5 F and 60 mph wind, cycling 4 miles in flat country (no hills blocking wind) - that makes one cold.
Or rain at 33 F.

But, to be honest, it was only against the wind one way; the other way generally was with the wind pushing one forward. (so no "bare feet up the hill both ways" stories here...)

That said, back to the topic at hand. In my experience single stacks always have a reasonable probability that they sag and fall. Things settle when it gest dry. I would put two stacks with e.g. 6" between, connected with stics at 2/3 of their height, and then have your aisles, rather than 1 stack, 1 aisle, 1 stack, etc.

 

[all night moe]

That said, back to the topic at hand. In my experience single stacks always have a reasonable probability that they sag and fall. Things settle when it gest dry. I would put two stacks with e.g. 6" between, connected with stics at 2/3 of their height, and then have your aisles, rather than 1 stack, 1 aisle, 1 stack, etc

Yes indeed. That's what I was getting at too but, failed to mention. My saved sticks are 5'ers. With 2-3'' of space between the 3 rows, stabilizing won't be an issue. Also, leaves less of a foot print including walkways.

 

[Pinesmoke]

So the evolution continues.

So the roof will be 16" snap lock steel, I have a bunch from the house build.

3 racks with the steel spanning all. Room to walk in between ricks and air flow and tying the ricks together

I was feeling a 16" to was too narrow for the roof but 32 was a waste of material.

 

[stoveliker]

Make it tall enough so you don't cut your head on the steel corners (walking or driving).

But do have overhang; I feel that not getting rain on the ends of the splits outweighs the slight lack of sun.

My shed has a 24" overhang in the front and no rain hits the wood. It doesn't turn black but stays yellow. One lower corner does see some rain on the cut ends, and I see a few percent difference in moisture content from having the dry off surface rain before the wood can restart drying after the many times it rains on it.

 

[all night moe]

Make it tall enough so you don't cut your head on the steel corners (walking or driving).

But do have overhang; I feel that not getting rain on the ends of the splits outweighs the slight lack of sun.

My shed has a 24" overhang in the front and no rain hits the wood. It doesn't turn black but stays yellow. One lower corner does see some rain on the cut ends, and I see a few percent difference in moisture content from having the dry off surface rain before the wood can restart drying after the many times it rains on it.

Makes sense because a split is basically a bundle of straws.
Actually veins that transports the goods.