Leaning Cherry

[thewoodlands]

After I clean up the Basswood I would like to cut the two Cherry. Would you still notch these two even though they are leaning.

Zap

 

[Duetech]

IMHO It never hurts to notch but sometimes it just don't seem to make a big deal. When they lean real hard like that it don't seem to be a big deal but a split trunk can reach out an slap you really heard while you are still trying to make the finish to the cut. The diameter soesn't seem to be too big on the more vertical tree and on that one I wouldn't worry too much about. Like I said though It never hurts to notch.

 

[JustWood]

No notch on heavy leaner = barberchair = ouch!

 

[bsimon]

Notch 'em.

A little more info on the barber chair:

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/cuts/dangers/dangers.html

 

[av8roc]

Is there a good way to get a leaning tree down without using a winch or other machine? I ask because my in-laws wooded lot have a few leaning trees I would like to get down to the ground.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

If you have some experience, you can get the leaners down with the saw. Look that thing over good so you know if it wants to go sideways; if so, which direction? Stand on the opposite side to do the cutting. HERE IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL AND CAUTIOUS. Be sure you know what is going to happen and be ready in case you might be wrong.

I usually cut in about 4' lengths. I'll cut down into the log to just where it will want to start pinching. Watch the crack and the second it starts to come together, get that saw out quick. Also, I will cut a little further down on the side where you want the log to go. Then cut from the bottom and be extremely careful.

Doing it this way I've dropped some pretty good sized trees with no problems but usually stop when I get a tree about 2' in diameter. Then it is time to use a tractor, winch or come-a-long.

But a warning: if you have not seen this done by an experienced person, make sure you do it only on the small trees; say 6" or so in diameter. Start small before you try a big one.

Mods, if you feel this would be too dangerous for the inexperienced and are uncomfortable with it, please feel free to delete it as we don't want people getting hurt out there.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

As for those trees that are leaning like the picture, yes, notch them lest they split.

 

[savageactor7]

av8roc last year or 2 years ago, I finished up a 3+ year swale hole project that required the removal of 100+ trees ...ALL of them leaning the opposite way.

1. used ladder to secure 100' rope about 20' high in tree then secured rope to tractor take up slack and made rope tight.
2. put in conventional hinge, observe, lay in a kerf cut inside hinge, observe, ditto kerf cut.
3. carefully make rope tight observe for tree lean.
4. If you get the favorable lean cut the tree. If not try another quick kerf cut.

Only use the attack part of the bar to lace in that kerf or you could get stuck. Understand you're not pulling down the tree with the tractor. But there's a mechanical advantage to be had by tieing off high in the tree. Often with the rope properly tightened a few kerf cuts was enough to produce a favorable lean so I could proceed with a felling cut.

the above procedure is not for hang ups, only leaners, and none as bad as zap's...maybe a cable for that but its way too far over for a rope. Our leaners were like that next tree up in the background of zaps pic ...maybe 10°.

 

[richg]

Notching and back cuts are the safe way to do it. There is a knucklehead who lives up the street from me....he likes to hunt in the woods behind my house. Seems he was trying to cut down trees to open up a field of fire, and he did not know what he was doing. I was back there the other day, and saw four distinct barber chairs with the trees still standing. How he did not get his face smashed in is beyond me.

 

[Corey]

Unless the picture is deceiving, that skinny little thing would probably collapse or pinch the saw the moment you tried to make a notch. The "barberchair" concern is valid, but I'd bet I could almost cut through it faster than it could fall. If you're really concerned, wrap a couple turns of log chain around it and just cut straight through below the chain from the back / high side.

 

[av8roc]

av8roc last year or 2 years ago, I finished up a 3+ year swale hole project that required the removal of 100+ trees ...ALL of them leaning the opposite way.

1. used ladder to secure 100' rope about 20' high in tree then secured rope to tractor take up slack and made rope tight.
2. put in conventional hinge, observe, lay in a kerf cut inside hinge, observe, ditto kerf cut.
3. carefully make rope tight observe for tree lean.
4. If you get the favorable lean cut the tree. If not try another quick kerf cut.

Only use the attack part of the bar to lace in that kerf or you could get stuck. Understand you're not pulling down the tree with the tractor. But there's a mechanical advantage to be had by tieing off high in the tree. Often with the rope properly tightened a few kerf cuts was enough to produce a favorable lean so I could proceed with a felling cut.

the above procedure is not for hang ups, only leaners, and none as bad as zap's...maybe a cable for that but its way too far over for a rope. Our leaners were like that next tree up in the background of zaps pic ...maybe 10°.

Great advice, thank you. It sounds like I need to do a whole lot more reading and a lot more practice with the saw before I attempt to get them down. Plenty of already downed trees to keep me busy in the meantime.

 

[Wood Duck]

I don't claim a lot of experience or wisdom, but I think I would notch then backcut, in more or less the normal way. These don't look like real big trees, and they don't seem to be leaning too far either. I assume you are trying to drop them in the same direction that they are leaning, right?

 

[billb3]

My experience with cherry is it needs a good hinge to snap in the center.
Even just trimming branches if you don't back cut you will real quick wish you had.