Laser vs Probe

[drstorm]

I'm sure someone out there can tell me what temperature differential you see when using a laser thermometer vs a magnetic or probe type.
If my flue shows a laser surface reading of say 250,what would a probe say?

 

[electrathon]

The HVAC guy I use at work will not ever use a laser. He told me he was burned way to many times with inaccurate readings.

The probe is reading inside the pipe, likely to be hotter inside than outside.

 

[lsucet]

Everything depend.Laser normally reads under actual temp of the component measured, due to distance, ambient temp etc. Like anything else, the closest to the source, the better. For your situation, if is the flue pipe, i will recommend a probe. More if it is double wall. With single wall a magnetic thermometer works but it will be reading about half of the internal temp +/-.

 

[bholler]

I agree with what Isucet said but I want to add that you really don't have to worry about being all that accurate. For single wall pipe any of those devices will give you a good enough measurement for what you need. If it is double wall pipe you need a probe because the outside temp doesn't tell you much at all.

You also have to get the right length probe the end of the probe should be either 1/3 of the way through the pipe or 2/3 that is the hottest part the outer edges are cooler as is the center. But again that level of accuracy is not that important you are just looking at general ranges

 

[xman23]

Can't say what the inside temp wound say. I'm rarely concerned what the stove temp is. I run the stove to be a comfortable house temp and a proper burn cycle. I can just look at it and tell. About the only time I look at the stove top magnetic gauge is when the stove is packed with fuel and I feel it's going over 550.

 

[drstorm]

Can't say what the inside temp wound say. I'm rarely concerned what the stove temp is. I run the stove to be a comfortable house temp and a proper burn cycle. I can just look at it and tell. About the only time I look at the stove top magnetic gauge is when the stove is packed with fuel and I feel it's going over 550.

My stove has a convection deck.That obviously lowers my measurable stove top temp.
Your 550 probably equals my 220,or something like that.
Now my flue,when trying to run this BK in warmer weather I get quite low laser temperatures from the surface(180ish).
I know that's lower then the condensation point,but is it really 250 inside?
I don't know.
Does the cat eliminate almost all of the creosote dilemmas when running that low,or is there a point where yes the stove will stay active and draft,but dangerous condensation may be going on?

 

[drstorm]

Can't say what the inside temp wound say. I'm rarely concerned what the stove temp is. I run the stove to be a comfortable house temp and a proper burn cycle. I can just look at it and tell. About the only time I look at the stove top magnetic gauge is when the stove is packed with fuel and I feel it's going over 550.

I just noticed you are in Lackawaxen.I know that area pretty well.
I'm down in Luzerne county.

 

[bholler]

Now my flue,when trying to run this BK in warmer weather I get quite low laser temperatures from the surface(180ish).
I know that's lower then the condensation point,but is it really 250 inside?

Is it double wall or single wall? If it is single wall yes I am sure inside it is 0ver 250 but it will not be very far into the chimney so you will definatly drop below the condensation point before you reach the top. If it is double wall I have no idea there are to many variable to determine what the inside temp is by a surface measurement.

Does the cat eliminate almost all of the creosote dilemmas when running that low

No it does not

or is there a point where yes the stove will stay active and draft,but dangerous condensation may be going on?

Yes there is

 

[drstorm]

Is it double wall or single wall? If it is single wall yes I am sure inside it is 0ver 250 but it will not be very far into the chimney so you will definatly drop below the condensation point before you reach the top. If it is double wall I have no idea there are to many variable to determine what the inside temp is by a surface measurement.


No it does not


Yes there is

Single wall into the thimble.

 

[saewoody]

I'm disappointed. I thought this was going to be a post about which 1990s sports car to buy[emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bholler]

Single wall into the thimble.

Into a masonry chimney? if you are around 180 you are definatly going to have creosote buildup unless that is in the coaling stages then it is fine.

And yes if the cat is still active you will be burning up allot of the creosote in the cat so you wont have as much buildup as a non cat running at those temps but you will still have buildup.

 

[Sprinter]

Condar says that they don't recommend probe for single wall, but I know people to use them that way. I think that the problem is that the probe type will tend to read high because of the extra heat of the single wall surface. They may also be more difficult to install on a single wall without it dangling some. The two walls will support the probe better.

With single wall a magnetic thermometer works but it will be reading about half of the internal temp +/-.

That is the accepted rule of thumb, but I don't know how close or consistent that is.

So none of them are perfect, but precision is not really necessary anyway unless you are a precision kind of guy

 

[drstorm]

Into a masonry chimney? if you are around 180 you are definatly going to have creosote buildup unless that is in the coaling stages then it is fine.

And yes if the cat is still active you will be burning up allot of the creosote in the cat so you wont have as much buildup as a non cat running at those temps but you will still have buildup.

Not masonry.
Its stainless insulated double wall.

Into a masonry chimney? if you are around 180 you are definatly going to have creosote buildup unless that is in the coaling stages then it is fine.

And yes if the cat is still active you will be burning up allot of the creosote in the cat so you wont have as much buildup as a non cat running at those temps but you will still have buildup.

Its class A double outside.
I ran a brush up 3 times so far this year during the warm spells,didn't seem to bring down too much creo(I clean from the bottom t outside).
Steep roof so while I can see the top out my bedroom window skylight,I can't get up and close from that end.
My theory was to keep it clean enough during the season myself,and then once a year have a pro come in to get more up close and personal with it.
Quality of wood isn't an issue yet since I burn mostly the TSC eco bricks.I keep the cat active almost non stop too unless it warms up above say 55 for a few days so not many cold starts.
How do you think my plan is?

 

[bholler]

Its class A double outside.
I ran a brush up 3 times so far this year during the warm spells,didn't seem to bring down too much creo(I clean from the bottom t outside).
Steep roof so while I can see the top out my bedroom window skylight,I can't get up and close from that end.
My theory was to keep it clean enough during the season myself,and then once a year have a pro come in to get more up close and personal with it.
Quality of wood isn't an issue yet since I burn mostly the TSC eco bricks.I keep the cat active almost non stop too unless it warms up above say 55 for a few days so not many cold starts.
How do you think my plan is?

Well at what point in the burn are you seeing those temps of around 180? If you are burning mainly eco bricks they are very dry and will coal fast and for a long time so you may be fine with what you are doing. Especially is you are cleaning that much. But you really should easily be able to go a whole year between cleanings with that setup.

 

[drstorm]

Well at what point in the burn are you seeing those temps of around 180? If you are burning mainly eco bricks they are very dry and will coal fast and for a long time so you may be fine with what you are doing. Especially is you are cleaning that much. But you really should easily be able to go a whole year between cleanings with that setup.

Only see those temps towards the end when stretching a burn out in warm weather.So I think your saying is that there isn't much nasty stuff coming off of those bricks on the back end of a burn.

 

[bholler]

Only see those temps towards the end when stretching a burn out in warm weather.So I think your saying is that there isn't much nasty stuff coming off of those bricks on the back end of a burn.

Nope if it is on the back end you are fine.