Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

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davespider

New Member
Aug 16, 2020
7
NorthWest, MI
I recently purchased an Oslo F500 (for $400). There's a good bit of surface rust...but it's coming off nicely with a couple wire wheels. I still need to get the top off...but the nuts are pretty much stuck. I'm planning on soaking with PB blaster to see if that helps. I may end up trying to take the oval off so I can access the internals, clean and replace the blanket.
Here are some pics...let me know if you see something I don't. :)

Unloading 450lb stove...by myself.
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

Rust, pre-wire wheeling.
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

Furnace cement will need some lovin' in places...
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

Older style 2 piece cast baffle...
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

Thanks!!

Dave in NW Michigan.
 
Your work is cut out for you. Please take the time and do some photography during the process! Thanks for Sharing. I look forward to your end results.
 
FYI...the rust is coming off relatively easily - it looks worse than it really is.

I'm wondering if I can get by not having to completely disassemble the stove this season. Can I apply furnace cement kinda like caulk in those areas where it has flaked off?
 
It looks like it might be worth a total disassembly in order to seal the seams well. Otherwise, it's just a patch job. Try to get some Hearthstone stove cement. It's close to the original Jotul cement.
(broken link removed to https://rockymountainstove.com/hearthstone-furnace-cement/)
 
Dave, you can slide the burn plates out to the front of the stove. You don't need to take the top off. Unless there are other issues. The insulation blanket can folded and slid in place.

Hows the burn plates? They can warp.
 
I agree with begreen I would do a full teardown
 
The griddle and top are pretty easy to remove if you can get the bolts loose. A little heat from a propane torch may help with that but not too much. Cast iron doesn't like to be heated unevenly and can crack when it is.

I'd grind down the casting flash also to create a better seal at gasket surfaces. I disassembled my Oslo a bit during its install. There are some photos here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...oslo-liner-and-stove-install.38467/post-38467
 
Partial teardown and cleaning continues....
I will need to replace my baffle blanket - it was an ashy mess - anyone know what size and thickness it should be?

Secondary burn tubes and other internals have some surface rust...but all is solid. Don't think I need to worry about
deep cleaning it...do I?
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...


I'm guessing they had a kettle of water boil over...and didn't do much clean up. Speaking of 2ndary burn tubes....
can someone explain to me where the extra air comes from? Do I need to remove the back to access that area to clean?
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...


Air intake was clean.
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...

Before:
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...


Some time with a couple wire wheels and about a 1.5 cans of Satin Stove Bright paint and she looking pretty good!
I'm just waiting on gaskets to arrive...
After:
[Hearth.com] Jotul Oslo refurb has begun...


I may touch up a couple spots yet...but she's looking a whole lot better.

Thanks for everyones tips and suggestions!
 

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Great job ,looks like new,I hope it performs well for you
 
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It looks great. Take out the primary air slider valve and clean that up with some coarse steel wool. Clean up the tracks it slides on too. That will make the air control much smoother. For extra points, Dust the area with graphite powder before putting the slider back in.
 
Looks really, really nice now.
 
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