Jotul F3 startup air slider

[Pellet_Pete]

I'm a month into using my F3, burning every day though not quite nonstop. Thanks to good dry hardwood, it's been a great experience thus far. So now I'm ready to start nit-picking the performance. I've had a couple runaway fires, and then a few loads that just climb & climb steadily in temp, climaxing at slightly uncomfortable temps (~750 deg). Door & ash pan gaskets are new, but one thing I've noticed is that the startup air medallion slider on the door is "leaky". I can see a sliver of glow through it when closed, & with all air shut down I've seen splits burn a hollow out right where that dial is. Is this okay, or is there some way to tighten up the intake there? The stove is used, about 12 yrs old, with new baffle, burn plates & gaskets.

 

[FionaD]

I checked my startup air and there's definitely no light showing through when it's closed. I did spot a little sliver of light there recently though and realised I had left it open by the smallest amount as there was a little bit of fire debris stuck in there.

I feel the start up air is largely redundant to be honest, at least with my high-draft set up. I don't know if there's a way to tighten it up, but if there isn't, you could just seal it up with fire cement and probably not miss having it.

 

[begreen]

If the draft is strong consider adding a key damper to the stove pipe above the stove.

 

[tcassavaugh]

i have the same jotul and have not had that problem. kind of the same feeling as fiona and don't see it make much difference at all. i've always installed a key damper in all my stoves. they have mixed reviews on the forum but i like them as i can get even longer burn times and don't feel like as much of the heat is going up the pipe. i think i'd visually inspect it for debree and maybe get a small can of air at walmart and blow some in and around the back side of the control.

 

[FionaD]

An afterthought Pete.. Why not try sticking some temporary gasket around the front intake just to see if you can be certain it's the issue?

If the draft is strong consider adding a key damper to the stove pipe above the stove.

Are you saying this to me, BeGreen? If so, aye, I'm coming to that decision. I thought last season that I'd give it a couple of months into this season's burning before being sure. It's windy tonight and boy can I hear the draft blowing loud though the primary and secondary intakes.. I'm sure it needn't be that loud. Problem is I don't have a pipe above the stove.. just a chimney liner that is connected to the rear of the stove via a short 90 deg connector. There's less than 6" of that connector visible between the stone wall and the rear heat shield.. Do you think I might manage to fit a damper into that wee space? I hope so.

Sorry Pete, I don't want to hijack your thread

 

[begreen]

It was meant for Pete but applies to anyone fighting draft. In your windy area it should make and improvement too. It would be challenge though with your setup. Can you add a 6" section of pipe with the damper already in it and maybe move the stove a little forward on the hearth?

 

[Pellet_Pete]

Thanks everyone. Now worries about hijacking my thread Fiona - whats helpful to you is helpful to me, since our setups are quitensimilar. Besides, in researching my own issues/confusions I often find you've already asked the same exact question already!

I too have no room for a key damper, but I'm still not confident my gasket job was up to par. Plus on reload I notice my glass has some play to it (didn't redo that gasket). I did the lighter test on the startup dial & it's definitely pulling air in, so I might just stuff some rope in it for good measure.

 

[begreen]

Try the dollar bill test around the doors to see how well the gasket is sealing.

 

[FionaD]

Can you add a 6" section of pipe with the damper already in it and maybe move the stove a little forward on the hearth?

Not if it means the stove would need to be 6" further forward into the room.. But it might be possible if that extra section of pipe could be telescoped as much as possible into the existing pipe.. Do you think that might be an option?

 

[tcassavaugh]

i was able to add my key damper to my existing single wall pipe. only tricky pipe is getting the holes lined up. you can pick up the damper itself for only a couple of bucks at a hardware store like ace or true value..... when i started using them, i never saw them in a section of pipe already made up. just an alternative if you have no room to add a small section of pipe.