Can someone either post, or point me in the direction of a photo of a Jotul Allagash 300, burning with a correct flame pattern?
Jotul Allagash 300 DV Correct Flame Pattern
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The drawing in your manual is pretty close to what it looks like.
Do you think there is something wrong?
What year was your unit made? The newer ones have a pan burner
& the flames are different than with the older tube burners.
Do you think there is something wrong?
What year was your unit made? The newer ones have a pan burner
& the flames are different than with the older tube burners.
The stove was built in 2004. Before I took it apart to clean, I used to have a large flame in the back left, just in front of the large log. The flame is no longer large, but quite small. I noticed that there are no large holes in the burner where the largest flame was located, and therefore wonder how I had the flame in that position. The picture in the manual shows a large flame in the area, but I can't tell wether it is close to the front or back. Also, I am getting some popping sounds on start up that I don't remember having before my cleaning. Any ideas you have will be most appreciated.
Which burner do you have? That's right around the time they switched from tube to pan.
Either way, make sure you have the burner properly positioned on the orifice & correctly
located in the fire box. One thing you can try is to remove the logs & observe the flame pattern.
If there are flames coming out OTHER than the burner holes, then something is wrong.
Also check the air shutter for the proper setting for the fuel you're burning.
Either way, make sure you have the burner properly positioned on the orifice & correctly
located in the fire box. One thing you can try is to remove the logs & observe the flame pattern.
If there are flames coming out OTHER than the burner holes, then something is wrong.
Also check the air shutter for the proper setting for the fuel you're burning.
The burner is a flat stainless steel pan, attached to a cast iron base. I do have some flames coming out of the slits in the sides of the pan. I'm burning propane.
LP is higher pressure than NG & it'll find it's way out.
IIRC, that burner may have a gasket between the SS & CI,& it may have failed.
I don't remember if you can tighten any thing or if you can seal it with RTV, but I
believe that burner has a lifetime warranty. Contact your dealer & get it replaced.
IIRC, that burner may have a gasket between the SS & CI,& it may have failed.
I don't remember if you can tighten any thing or if you can seal it with RTV, but I
believe that burner has a lifetime warranty. Contact your dealer & get it replaced.
Could I have damaged the gasket by blowing the burner out with a shop vac? Also, am I correct to assume there should be no flames on the side of the burner?
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That might have done it. That gasket is about 12 years old & probably in poor shape.
Tell your dealer you need a burner replaced under warranty. Tell him flames are coming
out of the burner in places where there shouldn't be flames. It just started.
Don't tell him about the shop vac.
Tell your dealer you need a burner replaced under warranty. Tell him flames are coming
out of the burner in places where there shouldn't be flames. It just started.
Don't tell him about the shop vac.
Thank you for all of your help, and I will let you know how I make out. Do you think Rutland's #77 might be better, or might it crack out?
Either one will probably work.
I will admit that the water solubility of the Rutland
product sure makes clean up easier than the RTV,
as long as you get to it before it sets up.
I will admit that the water solubility of the Rutland
product sure makes clean up easier than the RTV,
as long as you get to it before it sets up.
I like the idea of silicone better, more flexible, but the #77 is good for 2000 degrees. How hot do you think it gets under the burner?
I used Permatex Copper High Temperature RTV. Stove is working great. Only time will tell wether or not the silicone will hold up to the heat. At least I know what the problem is before spending $164 for a part that should have been made with a replaceable gasket.
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