jotul 602N vs 602 CB

[stove man]

Any one know what the difference is between Jotuls designation of the 602 series? I am referring to 602 CB vs the 602 N.
Marty

 

[olive wood]

The "CB" means clean burn the "N" is the forerunner.

 

[stove man]

thanks......would you know when the n was released to the usa? I am familiar with only the cb.

 

[stove man]

I am not sure how these threads work. I am new at this. Regarding the 602N does any one know what year if was introduced to the USA? The reason I am asking is someone is trying to sell me a 602N and I am wondering what I am missing commpared to the CB designation.

 

[begreen]

The 602 went into production in 1940, soon followed by the 118.

 

[downeast]

The 602 is the most used wood stove world wide and still in production with small changes.

Check that the top and side plates are in place and solid without cracks. With a strong light check the casts for cracks in and out, the door and circular air control for operation. Leave at least 2" of ashes or clean sand on the bottom at all times. These often came in green procelain, durable and nice looking.

We had a green porcelain 602N in our sauna for years before SWMBO wanted the sauna for her garden shed. I paid $200 for this green 602 in 1997, sold it in 2005 for $200.

You may need an adaptor for the smaller metric to standard 6" pipe.

 

[stove man]

thanks for the info. The only thing that puzzles me is the current owner claims her 602 N is only 1 year old. It has a glass door. More like a CB version. I could ask her to take a pic of the back plate and that should show the mfg. date.

 

[precaud]

The N and CB are the same.

EDIT: I guess I should expand on this. Both N's I've seen here in the states were the same as my CB. Jotul still sells the N in other parts of the world; for example, see:
(broken link removed to http://www.jotul.com/en/wwwjotulukcom/Main-Menu/Products/Wood--Multi-fuel/Stoves/Jotul-F-602-N/)

In the UK apparently the glass door is an option.

Compared to the original 602, the N and CB are just a tad larger, an inch or so in each dimension, perhaps to allow for the thicker burn plates and rear air channel.

 

[begreen]

The stoves are not the same. The N model does not have the secondary air manifold and chamber that is in the US CB model. It's a simpler stove that should be immediately apparent if you look in the firebox at the underside of the baffle.

That said, the N model is a great little stove. What is the asking price? If $300 or below and in great condition (particularly the interior burn plates) then I'd go for it.

 

[precaud]

Maybe that's the case in UK, but the two N’s I’ve seen here had the 2ndary air system and the same glass-front door as the CB...

 

[begreen]

Yah, I took the schematic from the UK site that you posted. Odd that same stove would have two designations in the US. What's with that?

 

[precaud]

Marketing, maybe? I think some other Jotul models got the CB designation added to their name without any changes made, also.

 

[stove man]

Thanks for all your info. and advice. This 602N could have been a early intro. of the clean burn with the ss manifold. I this case the stove goes for 799. and dealers are offering 10% which puts it around 720. I think at 375 and only 1 year old ( if she is truthful) the stove seems like a good buy. What do you folks think??

 

[begreen]

If it hasn't been abused or overfired, sounds good. This will require close visual inspection or a few decent photos of the interior, back, sides, etc. Does it have the secondary air chamber? If enameled and in great shape sounds good. But one thing we don't know is whether this is the right stove for you. Where are you going to use it? What size space do you want to heat with the stove?

 

[stove man]

Application is just a small space. 500 to 600 sq. ft. normal ceiling ht. Its not enameled. I will check for pics of the interior. I will also check for the clean burn manifold.
Marty

 

[begreen]

The heat it can produce is impressive for a small stove. I wouldn't be surprised if it heated up that space to shirtsleeve temps in about 60 minutes.

Get a picture of the back of the stove too. If the stove has been overfired, hairline cracks can develop below the flue pipe exit. In all exterior views, look for the cast iron going light grey. That's another sign of overfiring.

 

[stove man]

thanks begreen.....will do.

 

[precaud]

stove man, just another two cents worth... BG's comments refer to the old-style 602, not the new one with the 2ndary manifold. I hate to say it, but the CB is a whole 'nother ballgame. It's a relatively sedate heater. It doesn't burn very clean and not nearly as hot. More often than not, it leaves unburnt chunks of wood at the back of the firebox. That means... it sits and smoulders for a while on each load. I just uninstalled mine this weekend. I was surprised how dirty the connecting pipe was for just a few short weeks of use.

Like BG, I really loved the old 602. But the new one doesn't measure up, in my opinion.

 

[begreen]

True, it's not the blast furnace the original model is. So maybe 90 minutes. Recent hearth posters makeetle and Angus appear to be heating pretty well with the new 602CB. Seems like for stove man's small space and at $375 if in excellent condition they should be ok, don't you think?

 

[precaud]

Yeah, for that size space it should be fine.

 

[precaud]

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but it seems to have found closure anyway.

I removed my F602 a few days ago, frustrated by it's performance. I took a good look at it yesterday, hoping to find why it was performing so poorly again. Well... if I had only read my posts from last year, I would have known exactly where to look. Maybe I had to learn it twice for it to sink in.

As I wrote then (and since forgot!), the main air feed of the 602CB is actually not the one you see at the bottom of the door; it's a gap in the top of the door that feeds the airwash. That gap is determined by the thickness and placement of the door glass gasket. It's a clever but somewhat cheesy arrangement, but it is what it is. If that gasket compresses (which it will over time) or gets scooted out of place a little (which it will when you move the stove...), the primary air feed lessens in strength. The user then naturally compensates for this by opening up the startup air control on the door. Well, because that control directs most of it's air toward the left side of the stove, that causes the stove to burn unevenly (mostly on the left side), less cleanly (more smoke out the chimney), and stops the air from penetrating to the back of the stove, leaving unburned, smouldering wood back there.

This time I put a small piece of ceramic fiber over the gasket on each side to make sure the gap holds up better. I reinstalled the stove last night and it's burning great again. Amazing how such a small detail can make such a big difference.

How can you test your 602CB to see if this gap is correct? With a cold stove, tap on the glass toward the top of the door. If it rattles at all, then it's loose and neeeds to be addressed. I think I'll write something on this for the Wiki when time allows. Checking this gap really has to be part of the ongoing maintenance of this stove.

 

[stove man]

glad you hijacked this thd. excellent and interesting info. thanks

 

[precaud]

stove man, did you pick up that 602N?

 

[stove man]

I sent a check to the owner. It will be held till spring for a pick up. Its conveniently located in a path to one of my vacation sights. I recieved more pics. and this stove is in great condition. Come to find out it was purchased for decor purposes. Used only once. Then a remodel occured and the stove sat stored for a couple of years. The manual comes with it. It did not come with a screen nor a rear heat shield. If I want those I will have to purchase them on my own.

 

[precaud]

Sounds like a good deal.

You say it has no rear heat shield... so you can see the secondary air inlet toward the bottom of the back panel, then?