Jøtul F45 v2 install

[VermontCrapstings]

Hello Jotullers, I have finally decided to pull the trigger and switch out my Vermont Castings Intrepid flexburn. That stove had a pretty big learning curve. I had finally gotten comfortable with it last season with a lot of help from folks on this forum. My main reason for switching is getting something that was a little more straightforward so the rest of my family could use it as well.

I found an amazing deal on a F45 v2 that someone had bought and never used so I snapped it up. Now I'm getting prepared for the install and would like to get some advice on the best direction. It won't fit on the hearthpad I currently have because I built it to the height of the Intrepid. The clearance requirement for the F45 for rear vent is 22 5/8in. I'm somewhere in the neighborhood of 21.5 for the Intrepid. I will include some pictures and hopefully some of you guys can provide some guidance.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Here is a picture of my clay lined chimney and wee clean out for reference. The liner is in good condition but I suspect some of my issues with the Intrepid could be attributed to the nature of a clay liner.

 

[stoveliker]

For one, make sure the clean out is very well sealed; if it leaks it'll steal part of the the draft your chimney provides, so it won't be available for your stove to operate.

You also need (per safety and code) to put in an insulated liner as your chimney does not appear to have 1" space between its outside and the nearest combustible.

Since I believe the Jotul is a top-venting stove, you'll need to make a new location where the pipe goes through the wall...?

 

[VermontCrapstings]

For one, make sure the clean out is very well sealed; if it leaks it'll steal part of the the draft your chimney provides, so it won't be available for your stove to operate.

You also need (per safety and code) to put in an insulated liner as your chimney does not appear to have 1" space between its outside and the nearest combustible.

Since I believe the Jotul is a top-venting stove, you'll need to make a new location where the pipe goes through the wall...?

I just had the chimney swept so the clean out has not been re caulked yet but will be before burn season starts. The chimney is insulated. It is a clay lined masonry chimney. The Jotul F45 v2 can be oriented as a top vent or rear vent. It has a reversible flue collar.

 

[stoveliker]

Ok.

I don't believe insulation around a clay liner satisfies code. Clay can easily crack.

Is it possible to take one layer of stones out of the hearth?

 

[Todd]

Congrats on the new stove! I think you’ll have to modify that hearth as the F45 is too tall for your through wall crock. Also may be too deep to meet the 16” front clearance requirement? There is a short leg option for the F45 but I think it’s only for fireplace installations?

I would definitely look into a stainless insulated liner for your chimney, it will make a world of difference in your stove’s operation.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Ok.

I don't believe insulation around a clay liner satisfies code. Clay can easily crack.

Is it possible to take one layer of stones out of the hearth?

I would love to get a flexible steel liner but I'm not sure how it would work with that clean out. I'm planning to ask the installer about options there. I've got a mason on the books to take a look at modifying or redoing the hearthpad.

 

[EbS-P]

For one, make sure the clean out is very well sealed; if it leaks it'll steal part of the the draft your chimney provides, so it won't be available for your stove to operate.

You also need (per safety and code) to put in an insulated liner as your chimney does not appear to have 1" space between its outside and the nearest combustible.

Since I believe the Jotul is a top-venting stove, you'll need to make a new location where the pipe goes through the wall...?

I was going to suggest short leg kit but that only permitted for a fire place install. Redoing the hearth is probably cheaper than adding a new thimble higher up. But if you are going to drop a SS liner then might as well raise the thimble.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Congrats on the new stove! I think you’ll have to modify that hearth as the F45 is too tall for your through wall crock. Also may be too deep to meet the 16” front clearance requirement? There is a short leg option for the F45 but I think it’s only for fireplace installations?

I would definitely look into a stainless insulated liner for your chimney, it will make a world of difference in your stove’s operation.

It is an open room in front of the stove. Is that what you meant by the front clearance? The 22 5/8in centerline vent height is with the SLK. I do see in the manual that says hearthmount installation only.. odd. I will ask the installer about that as well. I may end up having to demo the whole pad and start from scratch.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

I was going to suggest short leg kit but that only permitted for a fire place install. Redoing the hearth is probably cheaper than adding a new thimble higher up. But if you are going to drop a SS liner then might as well raise the thimble.

Knocking down the old chimney and putting up a stainless may be an option. I can't imagine that being within my budget though. How much would you expect to realistically spend on an install like this?

 

[Todd]

It is an open room in front of the stove. Is that what you meant by the front clearance? The 22 5/8in centerline vent height is with the SLK. I do see in the manual that says hearthmount installation only.. odd. I will ask the installer about that as well. I may end up having to demo the whole pad and start from scratch.

Pretty much all stoves need 16” clearance in front of the door for ember protection.

What is the size of your current clay tile flue? If it’s too small for an insulated liner you could bust those tiles out then slide a liner down. It would be cheaper than tearing the whole chimney down and replacing with class A stainless chimney. You could also utilize that clean out by having a tee where it goes through your wall. It would be nice for sweeping.

 

[kborndale]

Knocking down the old chimney and putting up a stainless may be an option. I can't imagine that being within my budget though. How much would you expect to realistically spend on an install like this?

Why would you knock it down and replace it with class A when you can just put an insulated SS liner down the old chimney?

 

[EbS-P]

Knocking down the old chimney and putting up a stainless may be an option. I can't imagine that being within my budget though. How much would you expect to realistically spend on an install like this?

I would not demo the current chimney just add a stainless steel liner. If it wouldn’t fit you might have to break out the clay liner first.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Thanks for all the input fellas, I will try to opt for keeping the chimney and putting in a liner. I believe it is an 8inch so it should be doable I would think. I had one installer say it would be a hassle due to the type of T he would have to use. I'm talking with another now that 45 years of experience and seems to really enjoy his craft.

 

[begreen]

I would love to get a flexible steel liner but I'm not sure how it would work with that clean out. I'm planning to ask the installer about options there. I've got a mason on the books to take a look at modifying or redoing the hearthpad.

The way to keep the cleanout useable is to add a leg below the tee connecting to the stove. At the cleanout door height, add another tee with the snout facing the cleanout door. Cap the bottom of this second tee and cap its snout.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

The way to keep the cleanout useable is to add a leg below the tee connecting to the stove. At the cleanout door height, add another tee with the snout facing the cleanout door. Cap the bottom of this second tee and cap its snout.

What should I expect to spend to have that done and the stove installed? Just a rough ballpark estimate. I know it is hard to say exactly without knowing all the all the details.

 

[begreen]

There are too many variables to estimate a cost. It could be $2500 or $3500 or higher if the clay liner needs to be broken out.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

I am having a mason rebuild the hearthpad to get the proper clearance. The floor in the basement is concrete though. So not too much concern. I have been read8ng up all I can on the F45. You have some pretty insightful posts. Would you recommend magnet blocks on the secondary air inlets located in the ashpan from the getgo or run it unobstructed to see how it does first?

 

[bigealta]

I am having a mason rebuild the hearthpad to get the proper clearance. The floor in the basement is concrete though. So not too much concern. I have been read8ng up all I can on the F45. You have some pretty insightful posts. Would you recommend magnet blocks on the secondary air inlets located in the ashpan from the getgo or run it unobstructed to see how it does first?

I'd run it first as your house and chimney will be different than everyone else.
Of course u can have magnets ready to go if you think u would need them. (If you anticipate a strong draft, tall chimney etc.)

Edit: looking at your short chimney i'd definitely start it runing without magnets covering secondary inlet.

 

[begreen]

Agreed. This stove will run differently from the replaced VC stove. Try it for a few months without changes so that it's operation in shoulder and winter season weather can be observed.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Agreed. This stove will run differently from the replaced VC stove. Try it for a few months without changes so that it's operation in shoulder and winter season weather can be observed.

Hah, I sure hope so. I think it will probably be a good idea to get a baseline so I can appreciate any changes. I just saw most users of this stove end up blacking them or leaving the ash pan full. It sounds like it makes a big difference in controllability and burn times.

 

[EbS-P]

Hah, I sure hope so. I think it will probably be a good idea to get a baseline so I can appreciate any changes. I just saw most users of this stove end up blacking them or leaving the ash pan full. It sounds like it makes a big difference in controllability and burn times.

Get a flue gas temp probe if you want real data to make decisions on.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Get a flue gas temp probe if you want real data to make decisions on.

I was using an Auber probe with the VC. I plan to get another for the flue pipe on this next install. I let the other go to the buyer of my Intrepid which is being picked up tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the Jotul installed before it cools down. Looks like I have plenty of time here in East TN. Most of the sweeps are covered up, though.

 

[Todd]

There’s no ash pan in the F45. The stove is designed to run best on a straight 15’ chimney so try it as is first for a few months.