quads said:It's hard to tell from the picture, but if it's just about worn through the teeth, and I'm putting a new chain on, then I'd replace it. But I would replace it with the Oregon type (I think that's what the Stihl dealer calls it). From then on you can just replace the sprocket and not the whole clutch bell. I replace the Oregon type sprocket after every two chains.
maxed_out said:It also allows you to run other chains if you have the associated bar.
ggans said:Thanks guys, I dont understand all these different chain types, never even knew about them until I looked to buy a new saw chain online..
ggans said:It's a bit out of focus but you can see the wear. I just noticed this , when is it considered replacement time..
When mine worn thru, the chain kept getting bound up. I though the chain was too tight, then I thought the roller tip was locked up, it startedggans said:It's a bit out of focus but you can see the wear. I just noticed this , when is it considered replacement time..
+1dirttracker said:Looks like it's time for a replacement. Ever other year I go to the dealer and buy 2 loops of RSC and a new clutch drum for about $40. The first time I did this I was surprised how much less I was readjusting the chain tension. Last summer I changed to rim sprockets, the Oregon clutch hub and rim sprocket was only a couple more dollars than the Stihl drum and open sprocket. We'll see how well this works. IMO the rim sprocket should wear longer and be less $ to replace.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.