Installing Jotul Oslo in existing fireplace

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kcassidy

New Member
Dec 3, 2014
7
North Conway, NH
[Hearth.com] Installing Jotul Oslo in existing fireplace [Hearth.com] Installing Jotul Oslo in existing fireplace
Hi, new member here. I have been reading this forum for a bit now and have really gleaned a bunch of information. I have purchased a Jotul Oslo stove and can't wait to get it installed. However I have an obsticle that is bothering me. The house is a ski house with radiant heat that doesn't quite get the job done on cold nights due to the cathedral ceilings and glass. We have always used the fireplace to help out but the amount of wood required to get the heat needed is excessive. However my family just loves this fireplace. It definetely is part of the character of the house. It is in the center of the house living area.

Since I cut/split and stack the wood and pay the oil bill I have decided on the Oslo much to my adult sons chagrin.

In order to install the liner, 4 rows of firebrick need to be removed to get the liner down the last part of the chimney. I am uncomfortable with this as I want to leave the ability to go back to a fireplace if they want to when they are making the decisions... The damper is not the problem as it is at the top of the chimney with a cable and spring. This can be removed and put back if needed.

I have a mason coming out but would like to know ahead of time if it is possible to remove the firebrick and do something that would accommodate both going back to a fireplace and the room to get the liner down.

I don't have any good pics of the situation, sorry.

I have seen so many experienced folks here solving problems and proving food for thought. Any ideas or feedback would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

-Kevin
 
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they are just bricks with motar, i would think it would only be about 12 bricks in all that would be effected to give room for the liner. If and when they want to go back to the fireplace, i would think it would take a mason about 2 hrs to replace those effected brick and you'd never know they had been removed.
 
You liner can be ovalized to make it through the narrow spot. How much room do you have at the narrowest now?

The pic doesn't show it but there is some metal piece above that is 4 1/2" wide. The installers didn't like that option and wouldn't recommend it.
 
they are just bricks with motar, i would think it would only be about 12 bricks in all that would be effected to give room for the liner. If and when they want to go back to the fireplace, i would think it would take a mason about 2 hrs to replace those effected brick and you'd never know they had been removed.

This seems the most obvious solution. However what is typically behind those bricks? I'm thinking cinder blocks? The house is 15 years old.
 
Just take the brick out it wont be hard to replace them and i seriously doubt that anyone ever will want to regardless once they see how much heat comes from that stove
 
The pic doesn't show it but there is some metal piece above that is 4 1/2" wide. The installers didn't like that option and wouldn't recommend it.

Not quite sure why. I would think a properly ovalized liner would have the same cross sectional area as a circular liner. Grab an empty paper towel roll and squeeze it into an oval. You didn't change the cross section area you just modified its shape.
 
Not quite sure why. I would think a properly ovalized liner would have the same cross sectional area as a circular liner. Grab an empty paper towel roll and squeeze it into an oval. You didn't change the cross section area you just modified its shape.
Wrong you reduce the volume when you squish it and in addition you by not being round the smoke does not pass thru as easily either
 
Wrong you reduce the volume when you squish it and in addition you by not being round the smoke does not pass thru as easily either

Then get an 8" and ovalize it. And the smoke not passing through an oval as easily as round sounds like complete nonsense. Why exactly did the installer not want to install an ovalized liner? I'm running an 8" ovalized liner to my Oslo right now and it runs perfectly. My chimney is about 22 ft. I purchased it pre ovalized and I have to say it was super easy to work with.
 
Not quite sure why. I would think a properly ovalized liner would have the same cross sectional area as a circular liner. Grab an empty paper towel roll and squeeze it into an oval. You didn't change the cross section area you just modified its shape.

Take a full water bottle and try to make it oval. The water will run out. Ovalizing does in fact, reduce the volume.
 
Those few bricks will come out with ease! And they can be put back with ease!
You didn't mention it, but I assume you will making a block off plate as well?
 
Those few bricks will come out with ease! And they can be put back with ease!
You didn't mention it, but I assume you will making a block off plate as well?

Yes, a block off plate is being installed. Thanks for the replies. I feel better that it could be restored easy enough. I am looking forward to getting this installed and feeling the heat.
 
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