insert help

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brownclown

New Member
Sep 8, 2023
39
10512, NY
I have been reading for a few weeks and getting "analysis paralysis" and could use some help from experts. Im am only needing to heat about 1000sq ft of open floor space that is poorly insulated.. I am hoping to burn as primary heat option and use as little as oil possible. I don't currently have my own processed wood and know that is a big deal. Future wood will be free and processed by me but sounds like 3 years before it will be ready. My masonry chimney opening is 32 1/2 W x 25 1/2 d x 26 3/4 H. Another factor is my chmney is on the shorter side. It measures 14' 7" from hearth floor to the top of clay flue. so guessing with a stove height about 24" my flue would be in 12 -13 ft range. I have now read many ways to extend so that is an option but would rather not. below is list of wants

1. north/south loading of 16in splits
2. preferably can run well if i lose power. Can they all be run without power?
3. not flush mounted (is it possible to have cooktop) , i would like it to stick out enough that i could at least have an eco fan , kettle
4. I am open on 2ndry vs hybrid vs catalytic but need 8 to 10 hour burns . i guessing catalytic isnt a good option based on my current wood supply would be of unknown quality as far as seasoning goes.
5. I typically tend be a value for dollar shopper but don't mind spending on quality if I need to
6. I plan to run it without surround shroud so would be nice if it looked good however looks aren't very important
 
Previous postings have helpful pictures and some suggestions. (Drolet and Regency) Also, take a look at the True North TN20 insert. It will take 18" logs loaded N/S. It will run well if the power goes out. All of the suggested models will provide 8-10 hr burns. Be sure to put a block-off plate above the stove sealing off the damper area to keep the heat in the room.
 
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thanks. I am very appreciative of the feedback from my first post. I thought a new post was in order now that i had specifics of what I am wanting. This forum is beyond helpful but i have also become overwhelmed by all the possible options and brands offerings. My biggest struggle is finding a stove that meets both #1 and #3 on my list. Not many brands list north south burning size of 16 in splits. Feel free to delete this thread if it is too similar to first .

Thank you. I do plan to use a block off plate and have read multiple posts here on how to do so.

I have been considering both Drolet and The True North TN20. i had thought TN20 might of been perfect but saw it mentioned that quality wise the Drolet a better buy option so that left me concerned with build quality. The TN20 also has fan controls mounted to the surround. I don't plan to use a surround so thought i should keep looking. However it is still a contender as I know i could do something with controls. The Drolet escape 1800 doesnt seem to be able to handle 16 N/S from my reading or i would go that way. Is it a mistake to be putting the ability to load 16 N/S as a top priority. I have no experience but from reading here it seems like that is a preference for many. This is a significant chunk of money for me, so I really dont want to compromise on purchase and hopeful a stove will meet all my list wants.
 
Look into compressed sawdust bricks as a store bought, dry fuel for your wood stove until the cordwood dries out.

The speed that wood dries depends on its species, split size, and how it’s stored. Some species will shed their water quickly, some will take years. Smaller splits, stored where the sun and wind can work their magic will dry faster than large splits, stored in the shade and away from wind.
 
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The TN20 is a good workhorse. Mount the rheostat inline on the power cord in a standard electrical handy box.
 
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The TN20 is a good workhorse. Mount the rheostat inline on the power cord in a standard electrical handy box.
i have been looking at the TN20 but it looks like the blower is attached to the side. I dont think it would look too good if i ran this without the surround. Can you confirm this or know of any images of how it looks without the surround?

I went to a local hearth store yesterday just to get an idea of what they carried and they didnt have a single inseret out of about 20 that is capable of North /South loading. When i mentioned N/S to the sales associate, he didn't even know what i was trying to say. Are North/South loading that uncommon?
 
might try wording it as: left to right or front to back. left to right loading with a front door can cause problems unless there are keepers or grate assembly to hold the logs in place. It is very exciting to open the door and have a burning chunk roll out. By nature inserts would have a front door. Burn wise it really doesn't not make much if any difference.
If you have enough room any stove can use the existing flue. There are some with rear exiting flue connections just would have to extend the hearth out. That would give you covection+ radient heat if the power fails. In addition you wood then have the stove top available for cooking.
 
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Its probably not as much of a concern if you aren't burning 24/7.

Most people are probably looking for an aesthetic fire in the evening, so it'd never come up.
 
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I went to a local hearth store yesterday just to get an idea of what they carried and they didnt have a single inseret out of about 20 that is capable of North /South loading. When i mentioned N/S to the sales associate, he didn't even know what i was trying to say. Are North/South loading that uncommon?
Yes, the blower is on the right side. A custom surround could be made for the fireplace that goes from the left-side support pole to the right-side brick. It could even wrap around to enclose the left side if desired.
Many inserts are designed for shallow fireplaces. That necessitates E/W loading. The bigger fireboxes in the 3 cu ft range can usually be loaded both directions.
FWIW, Well-informed sales associates are becoming uncommon.
 
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Are you buying firewood or harvesting your own? The 1800i is 15-1/4” drop to doghouse and 16-1/4” deep to the rest of the front. You can get andirons for it they are about 3-4” high and are an L where the horizontal leg sits under the bottom firebrick. I’d like to try it but I think they just might be more cumbersome. Cutting the surround that the stove comes with could hide the TN20 blower.

Cooking on the top of an inset is over rated. Not saying one can’t be done but it’s just not that useful. Maybe you could get a 6” pan on the 1800i as it has 5” of horizontal space. Get a real Dutch oven and practice with it You will have plenty of coals to shovel. Or just use a gas grill or camp stove.
 
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