I think you need to figure out a way to slow down your draft, but you need to talk to someone who is more knowledgeable than I am to get that done.
As far as the Yukon Superjack, Keith sells them, I just bought one last year and have 1 season of experience. No showrooms, just yukon-eagle.com. I have some pics of my setup on this forum someplace, just search for yukon or superjack on here.
Just a little info on my set up: the furnace is in a drafty garage, hooked to the forced air system, and it is not the best set up in the world - the furnace is in the garage at one end of the house and has to push air all the way to the other end, instead of being in the middle. I loose a lot of heat to the uninsulated garage. I spent about 5000 to get all set up and going, that included about 1000 for stovepipe, and 1000 for HVAC install. I heat a 4800 sq ft house to 74 or so. I burned 5 or maybe 6 cords this season, but I could of burnt way less if I knew what I was doing.
I do get 8 hour burns in almost any weather, but I was getting 5, then 6, then 7 & 8 as the season wore on and as I learned what I was doing. If the furnace was in the basement I could see 10 hours easy, but 12 seems like it would be exceptional (I expect 10 hours after I insulate and drywall the garage this summer).
The big question I think: Would I do it again, or knowing what I know now, and spending countless hours on this site, would I choose to something different? My payback is about 2 years, maybe 2.5 depends on the price of propane. I really, really enjoy the work of cutting firewood (I have 7 cords cut and stacked for next season, 2 cords still to me moved to the house and split if the mud will dry up). Not to upset boiler people, but I am not a plumber, and it seems to me that the 10,000 or so for a boiler, with storage plus the constant pressure monitoring, and pump issues, and ... well I am glad I did not go that way. So yes, I would do the exact same thing with the exact same furnace if I was to do it again. The one exception, I'd run my cold air return a little differently, which I can still change, but that is not my favorite thing in the world to do.
The drawbacks:
A. It has been a challenge to burn clean. I produce more creosote and soot than I think I should. This has a few causes. 1. Not all of this years wood has been the best, some of it was dead and standing only a week or so before it went in the stove. 2. I tend to overload the stove. 3. It's difficult to balance the heat in the stovepipe and still have the barometric damper set at .03 (this is just my experience). The good news for me on this, it takes 20 minutes to clean my stovepipe, so I do it monthly.
B. I burned more wood (5 or 6 cords) than I thought I would. I do think I will cut that down to under 4 next year by insulating the garage, stop overloading the furnace, and I think I finally have the barometric damper set correctly.
That is a lot of info, but if you are about to spend a few thousand $, I though you'd like as much info as possible.
bigoak9745 said:
Mike,
I do not have a damper on stovepipe of the 28-3500. The stovepipe is single wall going up 24 inces then a 90, going 24 inchest to block and flue chimney going from baseement thru house and attic 20ft. the thru roof another 4t. above peak in dead center of roof. I get stove going with good coals, fill it with dry oak/ashshut draft closed and slide damper all the way closed....still get only 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 hours. THis Englander stove gives off great heat and was a good price, but burn times are not great. I have heard others say they also get about 6 hours. What burn times do you guys get with the Yukon Supr jacks? Do they have dealers in Michigan? How is the Price? I really love my set up with an inside furnace.. If the Yukon has a good burn time I might consider as I need to find a unit that will give at least 9 hours burn and 10 to 12 would really be great!
Thanks for any info...