I need advice on what size of stove to look at

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williaty

Member
Jan 12, 2015
103
Licking County, Ohio
For a year now, we’ve been planning to have a wood stove installed for supplemental heat in the Spring of 2016. We had settled on the Osburn Matrix (with soapstone panels) free standing stove because it seemed to balance an interesting style with about the right amount of heat output for what we wanted to do. However, starting in to another winter, I’m beginning to second guess our choice. I’d like some input from you guys on stove sizing rather than specific stove models.

The house is an odd blunted A-frame shape, that’s basically 20x40’ floor, with the top floor being a little narrower due to the fact that it’s an A-frame shape. The bottom floor is a basement on one side and a walk-out garage on the other (house is set into a steep hill). The main floor is predominantly open floor plan with a 2-story great room with a vaulted-ish ceiling. The top floor has the master bedroom walled off, then a loft open to the main floor via the great room. One end of the great room is nearly entirely glass (~300sqf of single-pane glass). Unfortunately, the only possible position for the stove is in the great room near the end with all the glass. The walls and roof are R30. However, errors in the initial construction and subsequent water damage mean that the house leaks a HUGE amount of air. We don’t have blower door numbers yet, unfortunately. We live in central Ohio, which is Climate Zone 5. Our mean low in the heating season is 20F and our 10th percentile low is 10F. Record low is -22F, which we’ve hit several times in recent years. We typically have about a week a year where it stays below 10F all week and 3-5 nights a year where it’s below 0F.

Our initial goal with the wood stove had been to provide some supplemental heat in the late afternoon and evenings until we went to bed. The central furnace we have does hold the house at a temperature but it always feels cold anyway. We’ve been using a 10kBTU kerosene heater to make the main floor comfortable in the evenings and want to replace that with the wood stove. However, as I sit here watching energy costs rise and wages fall, I’ve gotten more and more interested in having a source of heat other than electricity available.

So here are my questions:


1) If we go with the initial plan of just trying to replace the kero heater we use now, what size stove do we need to sustain a 10-15kBTU output (maybe a max of 20kBTU when it’s really cold) over the course of late afternoon to the middle of the night? Yes, reloading during that timespan is fine.

2) If we want to have the stove able to take over the main heating duties under duress, what size of stove would we need to be able to heat 24 hours a day providing sufficient BTU output for the conditions above, if we want to maintain a 70F indoor temp at our mean low of 20F and at least keep the place above 40F during our record lows of -20F?

Thanks guys!
 
For that house i would say go big. you have allot of leaky cubic feet to heat and allot of that heat will want to be at the top of that cathedral ceiling.
 
Agreed. The Matrix will work, but you will be pushing it hard when it gets very cold. Maybe consider the Osburn 2300 or a Woodstock Ideal Steel with soapstone inserts? And add a ceiling fan in the main area if there isn't one there already.
 
There's already a ceiling fan in the area. With the bedroom door open and that fan on, the house stays surprisingly close to the same temp everywhere with the kero heater. The loft ends up about 6F hotter, the bedroom about 4F hotter, and the main floor is all the same temp. I have a feeling if the power went out and the fan stopped, it would stratify more.

Is there any valid concern to having a bigger stove and trying to choke it off more when I don't need as much heat leading to lower flue temps and creosote?
 
We have a large stove in a milder climate. It's 40F outside and the stove is keeping the house at a comfortable 72F. You control the temp by the species of wood burned and the amount of wood loaded. During mild weather burn shorter, hot fires with say 4-5 splits and let the fire go out if the place gets warm enough. Light btu wood like poplar, cottonwood, pine will put out less heat than white oak, hedge or locust. Burn this and save the high btu hardwood for when the temps drop below freezing.
 
Can you provide details on this "huge" air leak? Seems to me that taking care of this problem will make heating the space much easier. And it's hard to be comfortable with a constant cold draft moving across the floor. Before I tightened this place up, I had to have the foot rest up on the recliner or wear wool socks etc. to keep my feet thawed. You are going to have some of that off single-pane windows, regardless.
I can envision your floor plan...sounds almost identical to a friend's place. You might consider a highly radiant stove if you spend the majority of time in the stove room. With a rear heat shield, maybe you can keep the heat radiating into the room instead of toward the windows. You can really feel radiant heat when you are within sight of the stove, especially within 20' or so. If you think you'd like a hybrid stove, a Woodstock PH might be nice; I've run the Fireview and Keystone, and that soapstone radiates really well. A grated ash-handling system is a high priority for me but others don't seem to mind shoveling out their stoves. If you're more comfortable with a tube stove, I think one of the Jotuls or a Hearthstone Manchester, or steel stoves for that mater, will radiate pretty well. The heat output will be more peak-and-valley with that type of stove, which may be fine with the type of heating you want to do. A ceiling fan above the great room, blowing up, should keep the heated air from stratifying at the peak.
 
Can you provide details on this "huge" air leak? Seems to me that taking care of this problem will make heating the space much easier.
The house is constructed from SIPs laid over a widely-spaced A-frame girder design. The edges of the SIPs were not sealed to each other when the house was initially constructed. The seams are not accessible from the inside and access to them from the outside requires removing the entire roof (all 2850sqf of it since it's an A-frame it's basically all roof, no walls). Sealing them from the outside is also risky as it allows warm, humid are from the inside to penetrate the seams and condense on the outside surface of the structure. This phenomenon destroyed nearly 300 SIP-constructed homes in Juneau a few years ago. It's just something we're going to have to live with.


I can envision your floor plan...sounds almost identical to a friend's place. You might consider a highly radiant stove if you spend the majority of time in the stove room. With a rear heat shield, maybe you can keep the heat radiating into the room instead of toward the windows.
What current production stoves are still highly radiant? From reading the forums here I had gotten the impression that the current design trend of an interior firebox spaced away from an outer casing made all the stoves almost entirely convective regardless of what the manufacturers say. The new Pacific Energy Newcastle 2.5 claims to be somewhat radiant but does it really work that way? I'd actually prefer a radiant stove since my wife loves the little radiant kerosene heater so much. PE also has a new Neostone 2.5 soapstone stove that is kind of appealing as well since the extra thermal mass would smooth out the humps some and you say soapstone radiates well.
 
Any convective stove still radiates intensely from the front of the stove for butt searing warmth. If you want a radiant stove you should be looking at unjacketed and unclad stoves. You'll instead want the soapstone in more direct contact with the fire. In soapstone the Hearthstone Mansfield or Woodstock Progress Hybrid are more radiant. Or look at either unjacketed steel stoves like the Drolet Myriad or Austral or a larger cast iron stove like the Jotul F500 or F600 or the Hearthstone Manchester.

FWIW we replaced a radiant VC Intrepid with a cast iron clad PE Alderlea T5 in a full, large A frame house locally and the owner was very happy with the more even heat of the convective stove.
 
I agree with begreen the stoves he mentioned would work well. I live in northeast Ohio and heat much less than you and we have an jotul f500. The bigger stove will work out better in the long run can always have small hot little fires to get some quick heat. Chances are once you get into burning wood and everything that comes with it cutting splitting etc, you will appreciate the larger stove. It is always easier to have a large stove with a small fire than take a small stove an make it work harder than it has to. Good luck let us know what you get.
 
Well, we tried to call today and order an Ideal Steel but no one answered so we used the reservation form since that implied we're get the sale pricing and shipping deal, which ended today.
 
Should work, they are probably on holiday break now. Call them after Christmas to verify.
 
Agreed. The Matrix will work, but you will be pushing it hard when it gets very cold. Maybe consider the Osburn 2300 or a Woodstock Ideal Steel with soapstone inserts? And add a ceiling fan in the main area if there isn't one there already.

Slightly biased due to me buying an Ideal Steel, but it will do the job.

The main thing is to get a ceiling fan in there. My stove is in a den with a cathedral ceiling. It's probably 15 feet high at the peak. If I don't turn the fan on the heat just sits up there. Once the fan is on the heat gets spread out very nicely. I recommend one with a variable speed setting versus one with standard speed settings. It allows you to dial it in perfectly and adjust it during the burn cycle. When the stove is on the tail end of a cycle I turn the speed down a little because the air movement starts to feel chilly.


Get a fan!
 
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