How to know if your chimney is not optimal lenght ?

[Mike Riddle]

First season of burning .. love it so far.

When we installed my US Stove Magnolia 2015, I ended up with 9 feet of pipe total .. it is double wall stainless smoke pipe inside and insulated stainless chimney from Selkirk Metalbestos.

When I read the owners manual again and noticed that it recommended a minumum of 12 feet, I immediately added one more section making a total of 12 feet (4 feet of it above the crown of the roof).

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Also .. when I load the stove with reasonably dry hardwood .. wide open draft on the stove, the highest that I have measured the stovetop is the mid 500s.


I suspect that going one more section of pipe (15 feet total) would be a good move to make .. but I don't want to get too much draft.

Did I give enough information ?

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

 

[Dune]

What do you do before you open the door?

 

[DanCorcoran]

I think he said he claps his hands twice, wiggles his hips, and whistles something from The Sound of Music. Hasn't seemed to help, though...

 

[shawneyboy]

I think he said he claps his hands twice, wiggles his hips, and whistles something from The Sound of Music. Hasn't seemed to help, though...

Well there is your problem ! supposed to be three times

 

[Mike Riddle]

Well clearly I am not skilled at door opening. I have however tried opening the damper fully for a minute before opening the door.

 

[LLigetfa]

Inside air or outside (OAK)? An OAK can push smoke into the room so in that case open the air for while to get things moving but close it just before you open the door.

Is that single or doublewall smokepipe into the chimney? A lot of outside chimney will lose heat out the sides so I doubt you can get too much draft. More a case of diminishing returns. Switching from singlewall to doublewall smokepipe can help to send more heat up the chimney.

 

[Mike Riddle]

The inside is double wall pipe (4 1/2 feet) About 8" below the ceiling it is 6" stainless insulated chimney pipe 7 1/2 feet). All inside air.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

First season of burning .. love it so far.

When we installed my US Stove Magnolia 2015, I ended up with 9 feet of pipe total .. it is double wall stainless smoke pipe inside and insulated stainless chimney from Selkirk Metalbestos.

When I read the owners manual again and noticed that it recommended a minumum of 12 feet, I immediately added one more section making a total of 12 feet (4 feet of it above the crown of the roof).

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Also .. when I load the stove with reasonably dry hardwood .. wide open draft on the stove, the highest that I have measured the stovetop is the mid 500s.


I suspect that going one more section of pipe (15 feet total) would be a good move to make .. but I don't want to get too much draft.

Did I give enough information ?

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

LLigetfa nailed it on opening the door. Also when you do this, open that door like there might be a dangerous animal in there; very slowly.

On the recommended, that is not a hard and fast rule, it is only a recommendation. By all theories our chimney should not work because not only are we surrounded by tall trees, our chimney goes through the wall and up the side of the house, it is not taller than the peak of the roof and it is not in a chase. In addition, it is shorter than recommended. Yet, we do not have a problem. But, for some it is needed so I definitely will not say short is okay. Also it does seem if you go 15' it should help.

Now on that reasonably dry hardwood and only getting mid 500's. You state with wide open draft and that is the very reason the heat will not go higher. The heat is simply going straight up the chimney. To get the stove hotter, close that draft part way.

You gave good information except for the fuel. I'm not familiar with reasonable dry and hardwood is a pretty broad term. Even popple and willow are technically hardwood but the difference between that and oak is like the difference between a second hand Ford and a new Cadillac.

Good luck.

 

[begreen]

Could be the outdoor temps. They have been yoyo'ing in the south for the past week. Today, it's pretty warm in KY. When the temps dip into the 40s or lower did you notice a big improvement?

 

[Mike Riddle]

On the temps I'm not sure but we are looking for cold Thursday so I will report back.

As for the wood it is mostly red oak and hickory that is checked but I don't know how long it's been cut but it has that kind of ring when you hit two pieces together rather than the dull thud of green wood.

I will try the draft partly open later this week.

 

[firefighterjake]

Random thoughts . . .

Are you getting the smoke on a reload or while attempting to light the fire? On a reload you shouldn't be getting much smoke if you're adding the wood on to a bed of hot coals since the coals shouldn't be smoking much . . . but if for some reason this is the case LL's advice to open the air control up is a good one.

If you're getting smoke on the start up even with the window nearby open a crack I suspect you might need to add some length . . . and as BG mentioned "warmer" temps outside can provide some challenges on a start up in terms of draft. I often have some issues with my early Fall and late Spring fires when the temps inside the house and outside are close to each other . . . fortunately opening the window a crack can help in my case. I know Dennis in the past has sometimes suggested folks go to their hardware store and try adding a 3-4 foot length of stove pipe to their chimney . . . not as a permanent fix . . . but rather as a cheap way of determining if buying the more expensive Class A pipe would help remedy the problem or not.

 

[firefighterjake]

First season of burning .. love it so far.

When we installed my US Stove Magnolia 2015, I ended up with 9 feet of pipe total .. it is double wall stainless smoke pipe inside and insulated stainless chimney from Selkirk Metalbestos.

When I read the owners manual again and noticed that it recommended a minumum of 12 feet, I immediately added one more section making a total of 12 feet (4 feet of it above the crown of the roof).

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Also .. when I load the stove with reasonably dry hardwood .. wide open draft on the stove, the highest that I have measured the stovetop is the mid 500s.


I suspect that going one more section of pipe (15 feet total) would be a good move to make .. but I don't want to get too much draft.

Did I give enough information ?

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

LLigetfa nailed it on opening the door. Also when you do this, open that door like there might be a dangerous animal in there; very slowly.
. . ..

As if there was a very, very, very angry mallard in there.

 

[Mike Riddle]

Random thoughts . . .

Are you getting the smoke on a reload or while attempting to light the fire? On a reload you shouldn't be getting much smoke if you're adding the wood on to a bed of hot coals since the coals shouldn't be smoking much . . . but if for some reason this is the case LL's advice to open the air control up is a good one.

If you're getting smoke on the start up even with the window nearby open a crack I suspect you might need to add some length . . . and as BG mentioned "warmer" temps outside can provide some challenges on a start up in terms of draft. I often have some issues with my early Fall and late Spring fires when the temps inside the house and outside are close to each other . . . fortunately opening the window a crack can help in my case. I know Dennis in the past has sometimes suggested folks go to their hardware store and try adding a 3-4 foot length of stove pipe to their chimney . . . not as a permanent fix . . . but rather as a cheap way of determining if buying the more expensive Class A pipe would help remedy the problem or not.

I notice it both startup and reload.

I do have have some stovepipe that came with the stove that I could try maybe .. as a test .. that is a good tip.

I also am reading (on here) that OAK should season 3 years to dry. I am pretty sure my OAK was cut just earlier this year. Could that contribute to the lower stove temps ??

 

[Mike Riddle]

First season of burning .. love it so far.

When we installed my US Stove Magnolia 2015, I ended up with 9 feet of pipe total .. it is double wall stainless smoke pipe inside and insulated stainless chimney from Selkirk Metalbestos.

When I read the owners manual again and noticed that it recommended a minumum of 12 feet, I immediately added one more section making a total of 12 feet (4 feet of it above the crown of the roof).

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Also .. when I load the stove with reasonably dry hardwood .. wide open draft on the stove, the highest that I have measured the stovetop is the mid 500s.


I suspect that going one more section of pipe (15 feet total) would be a good move to make .. but I don't want to get too much draft.

Did I give enough information ?

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

LLigetfa nailed it on opening the door. Also when you do this, open that door like there might be a dangerous animal in there; very slowly.
. . ..

As if there was a very, very, very angry mallard in there.

LOL .. I have tried that and it does help some .. never pictured the angry mallard specifically.

 

[joefrompa]

like the difference between a second hand Ford and a new Cadillac.

Good luck.

We talking like a 60s Shelby Cobra vs. a Caddy DTS? Cause, ya know, that makes all the difference in your analogy...

 

[Battenkiller]

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

I could live with the puff of smoke, but not with a stove that couldn't get out of the 500º range. No amount of slow door opening will fix that problem. What will you do when it's the middle of January? Sounds like a lazy draft to me, and adding another section just might cure both ailments. You won't have too much draft with 15' of chimney, trust me. From your description, however, you'll surely have to add a brace to it.

 

[firefighterjake]

Random thoughts . . .

Are you getting the smoke on a reload or while attempting to light the fire? On a reload you shouldn't be getting much smoke if you're adding the wood on to a bed of hot coals since the coals shouldn't be smoking much . . . but if for some reason this is the case LL's advice to open the air control up is a good one.

If you're getting smoke on the start up even with the window nearby open a crack I suspect you might need to add some length . . . and as BG mentioned "warmer" temps outside can provide some challenges on a start up in terms of draft. I often have some issues with my early Fall and late Spring fires when the temps inside the house and outside are close to each other . . . fortunately opening the window a crack can help in my case. I know Dennis in the past has sometimes suggested folks go to their hardware store and try adding a 3-4 foot length of stove pipe to their chimney . . . not as a permanent fix . . . but rather as a cheap way of determining if buying the more expensive Class A pipe would help remedy the problem or not.

I notice it both startup and reload.

I do have have some stovepipe that came with the stove that I could try maybe .. as a test .. that is a good tip.

I also am reading (on here) that OAK should season 3 years to dry. I am pretty sure my OAK was cut just earlier this year. Could that contribute to the lower stove temps ??

Oak only one year old . . . most certainly . . . there is a very, very good chance that is not fully seasoned . . . and yes . . . try Backwoods' tip . . . that might help . . . or at least rule out a possible issue.

 

[Mike Riddle]

The draft was improved a good deal, but I still get a good little puff of smoke when I open the door even with the window in the same room cracked .. and the fire is not as vigorous as I would think it should be when the draft is all the way open.

Should I try an additional section of pipe ?

I could live with the puff of smoke, but not with a stove that couldn't get out of the 500º range. No amount of slow door opening will fix that problem. What will you do when it's the middle of January? Sounds like a lazy draft to me, and adding another section just might cure both ailments. You won't have too much draft with 15' of chimney, trust me. From your description, however, you'll surely have to add a brace to it.

I have a small space to heat but I would like to see the stove be hotter for the sake of efficiency. Yes I am sure I will have to brace it up if I add another section. Gonna try with a piece of stovepipe first (already have one). Would it matter if I don't put a raincap on the chimney for testing short term?

 

[Troutchaser]

Wood is highly suspect.
Slow to start?
Not taking off once started?
And then there is the limited stove temps.

 

[Mike Riddle]

Wood is highly suspect.
Slow to start?
Not taking off once started?
And then there is the limited stove temps.

I don't have any good known seasoned wood. I will be looking for some.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Yes, you should be able to do an interesting experiment. First try the well-seasoned, dry wood. Then try the chimney extension with your oak. Then try both seasoned wood and chimney extension. Let us know the results...

 

[Mike Riddle]

Yes, you should be able to do an interesting experiment. First try the well-seasoned, dry wood. Then try the chimney extension with your oak. Then try both seasoned wood and chimney extension. Let us know the results...

Will do !!

Thanks for the advice !!

 

[Mike Riddle]

Last night's fire was made of slats cut from kiln dried wood pallets that I had cut up. The wood was very dry. While it was a small load, the stovetop reached almost 500 very quickly and the chimney exhaust was colorless and had little smell. I believe my ricked wood is just too green. Will keep you posted.

 

[begreen]

That's the most common issue we see here. Dry wood makes all the difference. Most of us have our sheds stocked by late winter or early spring. But it could also be that outside temps are some 20 degrees cooler. I would try mixing some dry wood with the oak and see how it goes. As winter progresses the draft will improve and the wood will be drier.

 

[Mike Riddle]

That's the most common issue we see here. Dry wood makes all the difference. Most of us have our sheds stocked by late winter or early spring. But it could also be that outside temps are some 20 degrees cooler. I would try mixing some dry wood with the oak and see how it goes. As winter progresses the draft will improve and the wood will be drier.

I am learning the value of dry wood. One fire with very small load dry hardwood from pallets allowed the stovetop to reach just over 500 today.

Collecting wood now that I know is for next year but I will split my hickory small so that it will dry as much as possible. The oak will be stacked by itself and saved for next year most likely.

I do appreciate all the advice from you and the others here.