How to fix Baffle Support Bracket?

[kevinkevin]

Hi,

when we purchased our house two years ago, it came with an old Arrow Wood Stove – Model 1800A, MH 11315 UL 1482-SC. I asked this forum a while ago whether it was a good idea to keep the wood stove in a rental unit, and most of you advised against it. However, our tenant has experience using wood stoves, so we decided to keep it. We also feel it adds a nice touch to the home. That said, please let me know if you still believe it’s a really bad idea to keep it in a rental unit.

Currently, the baffle plate is missing, and the metal support bracket is broken. I considered hiring a welder to fabricate a new bracket and baffle plate, but the quotes have been over $450, which feels a bit high for the scope of the work. So, I’m thinking about purchasing a Lynn Manufacturing baffle board instead. I noticed there are a few options available — could someone recommend which one is best for our wood stove?

Also, regarding the broken support bracket, I’ve heard that it may be possible to drill and bolt a replacement bracket or use high-temp fire cement to secure one. Can anyone advise whether those methods are safe and long-lasting, or is it still better to go with a welder?


By the way, there are several trees on our property that fell down many years ago. I’m not sure what type they are, but I believe most of them are pine. Would it be okay for the tenant to use that wood and branches for the stove, or should we require them to use properly seasoned firewood from a supplier?


Thank you!

 

[DAKSY]

If it were in my house, I would drill and tap to secure the baffle bracket. That would be a more positive connection than using an adhesive. As far as the baffle material, I would use whatever is comparable to the OEM baffle.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

So, the general feeling before was this was a bad idea. Now the stove is not in good material condition and will cost at least $450 to repair. How has the situation gotten any better?

 

[kevinkevin]

If it were in my house, I would drill and tap to secure the baffle bracket. That would be a more positive connection than using an adhesive. As far as the baffle material, I would use whatever is comparable to the OEM baffle.

Can you let me know if I need to use specific types of brackets and screws? I’m guessing not all metals can handle high temperatures.
Thank you

 

[coaly]

Can you let me know if I need to use specific types of brackets and screws? I’m guessing not all metals can handle high temperatures.
Thank you

You can set bricks on their sides, cutting them on an angle, wedge shaped to set baffle on.

Angle iron bolted or welded to baffle edges prevents bricks from falling inward. I posted a pic on this thread; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

There’s a good pic on post #159 as well.

I only allow coal stoves to be used in rentals. Tenants have always made it their primary heat source.

 

[kevinkevin]

Thank you.

You can set bricks on their sides, cutting them on an angle, wedge shaped to set baffle on.

Angle iron bolted or welded to baffle edges prevents bricks from falling inward. I posted a pic on this thread; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

There’s a good pic on post #159 as well.

I only allow coal stoves to be used in rentals. Tenants have always made it their primary heat source.

Thank you for the response.

By the way, I couldn’t find the baffle plate dimensions for our wood stove in the manual.

Is there a general rule of thumb I can use to estimate the size?

Does the baffle plate need to fit tightly from side to side and all the way to the back?

 

[coaly]

You can set bricks on their sides, cutting them on an angle, wedge shaped to set baffle on.

Angle iron bolted or welded to baffle edges prevents bricks from falling inward. I posted a pic on this thread; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

There’s a good pic on post #159 as well.

Thank you.

Thank you for the response.

By the way, I couldn’t find the baffle plate dimensions for our wood stove in the manual.

Is there a general rule of thumb I can use to estimate the size?

Does the baffle plate need to fit tightly from side to side and all the way to the back?

Just large enough to get it in and out easily. 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller is fine.

The exhaust flow opening cannot be smaller than the square inch cross sectional area of stove outlet.

Make a cardboard template to set on fabricated supports. The size and angle can be adjusted until you get the right size opening. Then cut steel plate to match template.

I prefer 5/16 thickness to prevent warping.

 

[kevinkevin]

Just large enough to get it in and out easily. 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller is fine.

The exhaust flow opening cannot be smaller than the square inch cross sectional area of stove outlet.

Make a cardboard template to set on fabricated supports. The size and angle can be adjusted until you get the right size opening. Then cut steel plate to match template.

I prefer 5/16 thickness to prevent warping.

Thank you for your reply.

I was considering using the Lynn Baffle Plate (https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Universal-Baffle-Board-Superwool/dp/B0716M86PQ), which seems to have generally good reviews.
However, I also noticed a few negative reviews mentioning that it may not be very durable.

Have you used the Lynn baffle plate before? Would you recommend it?

 

[coaly]

Thank you for your reply.

I was considering using the Lynn Baffle Plate (https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Universal-Baffle-Board-Superwool/dp/B0716M86PQ), which seems to have generally good reviews.
However, I also noticed a few negative reviews mentioning that it may not be very durable.

Have you used the Lynn baffle plate before? Would you recommend it?

I only make my own from 5/16 plate. They can be straightened and last a lifetime. The angle iron connected to sides holds bricks in place. It can be removed for bottom-up cleaning without risking damage to fragile insulated baffle material. The idea came from the Fisher Fireplace Series that are tanks.