How much OAK suction does a 25-pah have?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

MaryH

Member
Oct 27, 2013
110
Williamsport PA
I accidentally knocked off our oak hose, and just out of curiosity, checked to see how much it sucked, before reinstalling the hose.

I can "barely" feel any suction...should I?

Thanks
 
the PAH is a direct sealed intake, so it would pull only through the intake pipe itself if the OAK is disconnected. now its not going to yank you against the pipe but it should be strong enough to pull a match flame sideways when placed in close proximity to the opening
 
  • Like
Reactions: St_Earl
the PAH is a direct sealed intake, so it would pull only through the intake pipe itself if the OAK is disconnected. now its not going to yank you against the pipe but it should be strong enough to pull a match flame sideways when placed in close proximity to the opening

No matches (does anyone use them anymore?)....but it will hold a paper towel, to the intake, so I suppose this was just cold weather paranoia...Thank You Very Much !


*edit
So...I should put a hose clamp, on the OAK hose?
 
Last edited:
no biggie St Earl, wasn't meant as a "correction" just an explanation of how my product draws air , there are many units which have "unsealed" OAK connections which dump outside air into the back of the unit but are not directly connected to the firebox. in that case sir, you would be correct in your description. ESW units are all "sealed intake" so there is not escape route for outside air once its drawn in to the house. I like this system better as an unsealed connection could spill outside air into the structure if under negative pressure and the unit were not running.
 
  • Like
Reactions: St_Earl
No matches (does anyone use them anymore?)....but it will hold a paper towel, to the intake, so I suppose this was just cold weather paranoia...Thank You Very Much !


*edit
So...I should put a hose clamp, on the OAK hose?


yes a hose clamp would be more secure.

as for the match , anything which has a similar flame such as a candle or a cigarette lighter would give the same indication.

BTW how are you liking the PAH? I actually have one burning in my home right now. feel free to hit me up if you come across anything you wish to ask about it. or post in here again and i'd be happy to answer.
 
yes a hose clamp would be more secure.

as for the match , anything which has a similar flame such as a candle or a cigarette lighter would give the same indication.

BTW how are you liking the PAH? I actually have one burning in my home right now. feel free to hit me up if you come across anything you wish to ask about it. or post in here again and i'd be happy to answer.

Love the PAH....blows lots of good heat, little screws are a PITA to remove, to clean the ash traps - but only adds, "maybe" 2 minutes to cleaning.

The only problem we have (call in to England) - is, we had to put a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, on the door latch arm, to tighten the door seal...not sure what's up with that - we replaced the gasket (5/8"), and woke up to the door handle, pointing straight down.
 
Love the PAH....blows lots of good heat, little screws are a PITA to remove, to clean the ash traps - but only adds, "maybe" 2 minutes to cleaning.

The only problem we have (call in to England) - is, we had to put a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, on the door latch arm, to tighten the door seal...not sure what's up with that - we replaced the gasket (5/8"), and woke up to the door handle, pointing straight down.

on the inside where it mates to the door wedge? this can be adjusted if necessary, its mild steel. does the inside part of the door handle angle into the firebox or is it on a hard 90 degree angle?
 
Love the PAH....blows lots of good heat, little screws are a PITA to remove, to clean the ash traps - but only adds, "maybe" 2 minutes to cleaning.

The only problem we have (call in to England) - is, we had to put a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, on the door latch arm, to tighten the door seal...not sure what's up with that - we replaced the gasket (5/8"), and woke up to the door handle, pointing straight down.

Huh?
 
on the inside where it mates to the door wedge? this can be adjusted if necessary, its mild steel. does the inside part of the door handle angle into the firebox or is it on a hard 90 degree angle?

We put a long piece of pipe on the inner door handle part, and gave it a good "what for", but it's kind of hard to do much, without fear of slipping, and smashing something. The copper fitting, keeps the handle, at 5:00, closed

Do you mean, the wedge, is adjustable?
 
no usually the pipe trick on the inner part is enough, there should be about an inch of rod after the bend , a length of steel pipe (copper aint strong enough) turn the handle where the inner is at 12 o clock then you can pull on the pipe and move the rod closer to the door itself so the rod engages the wedge higher thus pulling tighter, now the 5/8th gasket you installed did you get it from us? if not what is the "density' of the gasket, needs to be a high density gasket or it will quickly compress allowing the handle to swing much farther much faster
 
They used low density gasket and ESW uses high density gasket. That'll do that every time. Handle will spin like a propeller.
 

The slight, added thickness, of the copper pipe, makes up for "whatever", is keeping the inner handle, from contacting, the "wedge" part, enough, to make the door seal properly.

Either our new gasket, is NOT 5/8"....or the inner handle, or wedge, distorted?
 
Either our new gasket, is NOT 5/8


was it from us or bought in the aftermarket? there are 3 densities in rope gaskets low, medium , and high. the PAH gasket is a high density which is a relatively "hard" gasket which does not compress much at all
 
no usually the pipe trick on the inner part is enough, there should be about an inch of rod after the bend , a length of steel pipe (copper aint strong enough) turn the handle where the inner is at 12 o clock then you can pull on the pipe and move the rod closer to the door itself so the rod engages the wedge higher thus pulling tighter, now the 5/8th gasket you installed did you get it from us? if not what is the "density' of the gasket, needs to be a high density gasket or it will quickly compress allowing the handle to swing much farther much faster

No,...the short piece of copper pipe, is slipped on the inner door handle now - to essentially "thicken" that piece of steel.

"needs to be a high density gasket "....AH HA !....we have the wrong stuff on it (got it from a stove shop)
 
this is what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure. would be better to check and see if the stove shop has a high density gasket, if they do not just call my shop and get the stock gasket. may take a few days longer but it will be the right stuff.
 
this is what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure. would be better to check and see if the stove shop has a high density gasket, if they do not just call my shop and get the stock gasket. may take a few days longer but it will be the right stuff.

TYVM, Mike....if I can't find the proper stuff locally, I'll order it from Englander, Thursday

Happy New Year !
 
Just curious, is this a new stove? I was just wondering why you changed the door gasket out.
 
TYVM, Mike....if I can't find the proper stuff locally, I'll order it from Englander, Thursday

Happy New Year !

ok great, faster if they have it up your way in the stove shop. If not, I have it. just happy to have figured out the mystery.
Thanks for the input on the stove and thanks also for picking us to keep you warm!

keep me in mind should you ever have other questions
 
ok great, faster if they have it up your way in the stove shop. If not, I have it. just happy to have figured out the mystery.
Thanks for the input on the stove and thanks also for picking us to keep you warm!

keep me in mind should you ever have other questions

*Removing more clothing, now the PAH is getting up to speed(16F out, windy, dogs in and out on the half hour)

I'll tell you the truth - the shipping charge from England, for "just a gasket", is a bit excessive....maybe we'll muddle through this heating season, and get a whole set of gaskets, and it won't seem so painful.

Stay tuned for the timer attachment, on the daughters 25- pdvc igniter circuit, this summer ;-)
 
No question about it. The cost for small parts from ESW has horrendous shipping charges. Less than three pound packages can ship USPS for a fraction even after a handling charge. And get there faster.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.