I decided to disassemble my flue and sweep my chimney for this first time this weekend since I'm a new wood burner this year and I now know that in the first month I was not burning hot enough and some of my wood is not seasoned enough. The Rutland poly brush works very well by the way. Most of the accumulation was right around where the chimney exits the house (first cold outside part). Anyway, between both the flue and the chimney I'd estimate there were about 4-6 loose cups of debris - I don't really know the difference between "soot" and "creosote", it all looked like "black stuff" to me. Anyway, since I haven't even had all that many fires this seemed like a lot of junk to me. Is it?
By the way, for anyone using a spark arrestor in their chimney that you installed yourself (like the Lowes/Home Depot stuff) one problem that I discovered during my inspection/sweep was that the spark arrestor screen was creating excessive blockage (covered in soot/creosote) due to unnecessary overlap of the metal mesh. My guess is that they either only make one size (for 6" and 8" caps) or they sent me the wrong one - there shouldn't be much if any overlap on that metal mesh. I disassembled my cap, removed the spark arrestor, cleaned it, and cut it to the proper size with no overlap.
Interestingly enough, the very next day my wife decided to make a fire using the driest, smallest splits we have, filling the box with wood. I noticed it burning very intensely and a lot of heat coming from the stove so I asked her what temp the flue thermometer was at - was pretty shocked when she said 1200! I've never burned that hot before. Was glad I swept the chimney the day before (then again that fire probably would swept the chimney for me).
I didn't know it could get that hot with all doors securely shut (though primary air was full and bypass damper was open). Nothing was glowing though (flue or stove) - maybe because it was only at those temps for a little bit - but I was wondering if anyone knows what temp single wall flue pipe does start to glow? After turning down the air and closing the damper it quickly went back down to a more normal operating temperature.
By the way, for anyone using a spark arrestor in their chimney that you installed yourself (like the Lowes/Home Depot stuff) one problem that I discovered during my inspection/sweep was that the spark arrestor screen was creating excessive blockage (covered in soot/creosote) due to unnecessary overlap of the metal mesh. My guess is that they either only make one size (for 6" and 8" caps) or they sent me the wrong one - there shouldn't be much if any overlap on that metal mesh. I disassembled my cap, removed the spark arrestor, cleaned it, and cut it to the proper size with no overlap.
Interestingly enough, the very next day my wife decided to make a fire using the driest, smallest splits we have, filling the box with wood. I noticed it burning very intensely and a lot of heat coming from the stove so I asked her what temp the flue thermometer was at - was pretty shocked when she said 1200! I've never burned that hot before. Was glad I swept the chimney the day before (then again that fire probably would swept the chimney for me).
I didn't know it could get that hot with all doors securely shut (though primary air was full and bypass damper was open). Nothing was glowing though (flue or stove) - maybe because it was only at those temps for a little bit - but I was wondering if anyone knows what temp single wall flue pipe does start to glow? After turning down the air and closing the damper it quickly went back down to a more normal operating temperature.