How do you start your Stihl Ms 250

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Madelinot

New Member
Oct 2, 2023
17
New Brunswick Canada
Stihl Ms 250 is a high compression saw for its size . Any tricks someone is willing to share before I pull off my arm pulling on this saw . Had it for along time but its deffenetly getting worse . Its very hard to pull the rope . Any tricks !!
 
I am a long time user of Stihl chain saws and have had trouble starting them in the past. Than I found out the proper way to do it and now I can start any of my six Stihl saws when I want. So I guess there is a trick. OKAY, First set the function switch to the choke setting, the last one on the switch. Do NOT touch or operate the throttle. Pull the cord four or five times and the saw should burp once. When that happens move the function switch to the next position which is the part choke position. If it doesn't burp, than move the function switch to the part choke position anyway. Do NOT touch or operate the throttle. Pull the cord . It might take several pulls but the saw well start. After the saw is running, than you can operate the throttle. The secret is to not mess with the throttle because if you do, than you have just flooded it. You need to have good gas and a healthy ignition system but this has worked for me every time. I love my Stihl chain saws.
 
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I've got the same saw and I use it a lot. I really have no troubles with starting it but...
1-Don't miss that first burp, even if it's barely audible. Then flip it down to half choke immediately or yes, you will flood it.
2-Yes, it's got some stout compression. Consider slowly rolling the engine up to the first bit of compression, then return the rope all the way before giving it a sharp pull while the saw handle is well braced in your crotch. I've been surprised more than once if I get lazy and make that first pull a drop start, especially when the saw is cold. It'll sometimes give an unpleasant jerk. A hot saw will be much more forgiving of a drop start.

Once you learn what not to do, it's a pretty friendly little saw.
 
I've got the same saw and I use it a lot. I really have no troubles with starting it but...
1-Don't miss that first burp, even if it's barely audible. Then flip it down to half choke immediately or yes, you will flood it.
2-Yes, it's got some stout compression. Consider slowly rolling the engine up to the first bit of compression, then return the rope all the way before giving it a sharp pull while the saw handle is well braced in your crotch. I've been surprised more than once if I get lazy and make that first pull a drop start, especially when the saw is cold. It'll sometimes give an unpleasant jerk. A hot saw will be much more forgiving of a drop start.

Once you learn what not to do, it's a pretty friendly little saw.
Yes, it's got some stout compression Thats exactly what I am talking about . Even trying to relieve the compression doesn't t seem to work anymore . I have had this saw Ms250 for years and its never been this bad .
 
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Well the good news is that it's gaining compression as the years go on :confused:.
If my Husqvarna 288 has been sitting for a while the first few pulls are harder. It does help me a bit to pull it through a few times slowly before the first real pull.
You could pull the head and add another, or a thicker head gasket to lower compression a bit?
 
Maybe? Interesting anyway.
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A trick i do on a drop start with my ms250 is to hold the top handle by the top bend down so the saw tilts a bit away from your body/legs. This way if the saw hangs up on a high compression pull and the saw blade jerks down it will go away from your body. I've gotten lax a time or 2 when i didn't tilt the saw and it touched my leg on a compression grab.
Luckily it didn't fire but it was a healthy reminder.

The light weight, and grabby compression of the MS250 saw adds to it's squirrelly nature.

My bigger 029 super doesn't need the same hold position. Straight drop works fine on that one.
 
FYI at past 20 minutes in the video above she tells you it was a carb problem.
 
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Just me but when I start my larger saws I place it on the ground and put my foot in the handle to hold the saw. My hands and wrists hurt too much to pull a saw and have it jerk the rope. I can get a good positive pull and no pain or the saw flopping around.
 
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Just me but when I start my larger saws I place it on the ground and put my foot in the handle to hold the saw. My hands and wrists hurt too much to pull a saw and have it jerk the rope. I can get a good positive pull and no pain or the saw flopping around.
Haa, I'm just the opposite. Bending over is a non starter for me and my back.
Drop starting with the 029 is straight forward and easiest on my body. Even the floppy ms250 is ok for me to drop start if i'm more careful, I just can't start a saw on the ground without risking jacking up my shoulder or back.
 
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Bending over is a non starter for me and my back.
Agreed. Back and shoulder combo is bad news if I do ground starting. Burying the handle in my inseam is the least painful, and IMHO, the safest way.
 
I drop start everything, except big old vintage saws that weigh lots
 
Yes, it's got some stout compression Thats exactly what I am talking about . Even trying to relieve the compression doesn't t seem to work anymore . I have had this saw Ms250 for years and its never been this bad .

I have an 025. Its the earlier version of the MS250. The only difference is the caps for the gas and oil. It's always been hard to start for its size, but it got harder to start over the years. I think it's due to carbon build up on the piston crown. There's not much to do about that other than removing the cylinder and scraping it off.

I have a number of Stihl saws. I find that two or three pulls max with the choke on then turning it off results in the fewest number of pulls to start.
 
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Newbie here.

Completely agree with the ahove. Set the choke by flipping the switch right down. One good pull of the starter cord. Two pulls if it’s freezing or lower. Flip the switch up a notch and it will start within a pull or two. Wait a few seconds and then gently squeeze the throttle and let the saw warm up.

How do I know? Well, about 15 years ago I brought 7 acres of a woodland and, after figuring out that a bow saw wouldn’t cut it, an ms250. For the next 6 months I hated it. I just couldn’t start it whatever I did. I tried sneaking up on it, screaming at it, kicking it, nothing worked. In the end a mechanically minded friend who knew Stihls found me sitting with my back against a tree, exhausted and with a silent ms250 sitting there grinning at me. I think I might even have been gently weeping. Anyway, he explained the trick and darn me it’s always started since.

The 250 and I are now great friends. I have other, “better”, saws but like an old pair of boots it’s the ms250 I reach for most.
 
Newbie here.

Completely agree with the ahove. Set the choke by flipping the switch right down. One good pull of the starter cord. Two pulls if it’s freezing or lower. Flip the switch up a notch and it will start within a pull or two. Wait a few seconds and then gently squeeze the throttle and let the saw warm up.

How do I know? Well, about 15 years ago I brought 7 acres of a woodland and, after figuring out that a bow saw wouldn’t cut it, an ms250. For the next 6 months I hated it. I just couldn’t start it whatever I did. I tried sneaking up on it, screaming at it, kicking it, nothing worked. In the end a mechanically minded friend who knew Stihls found me sitting with my back against a tree, exhausted and with a silent ms250 sitting there grinning at me. I think I might even have been gently weeping. Anyway, he explained the trick and darn me it’s always started since.

The 250 and I are now great friends. I have other, “better”, saws but like an old pair of boots it’s the ms250 I reach for most.
What kind of saw was the bow saw? Still have it?
 
What kind of saw was the bow saw? Still have it?
It is cheapie from a DIY store (“Shed”?) 30 or so years ago. I do still have it but I find it impossible to use properly. I don’t know if it’s me or the saw…probably me.

For small stuff I have a couple of Silky saws. Do they sell them there? Evil things they are. Sharp as surgical scalpels and they take no prisoners. The pole saw extends to 6m and will take a 4” oak branch off at full reach.
 
It is cheapie from a DIY store (“Shed”?) 30 or so years ago. I do still have it but I find it impossible to use properly. I don’t know if it’s me or the saw…probably me.

For small stuff I have a couple of Silky saws. Do they sell them there? Evil things they are. Sharp as surgical scalpels and they take no prisoners. The pole saw extends to 6m and will take a 4” oak branch off at full reach.
Yup those silky saws are nice. I have 2 "Big Boys" that my buddy brought back from Japan.