How do you measure your logs?

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sixman

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Apr 12, 2010
257
Central Texas
Just wondering if anyone has a unique way of getting your logs just the right length while cutting in the field? Seems I always end up with some just too long, over 18 inches, usually when you are down to the last cut. Too short for three pieces and too long for two so I make two hoping they will fit. Also where and how do you store the stubs you end up cutting off to make them fit later?
 
I have an 18 inch bar on my saw. From the dawgs to the hole near the end of my bar is exactly 16 inches, so I use my bar to measure the length.
 
I also use the bar on my chain saw. My dad uses a piece of lumber chalk and a "marking stick" and chalks a line for each log he cuts.
 
I like the chalk idea.
 
I use my bar. I get allot of wood from a tree guy. I don't know what he uses because I get from 10" to 30". And never cut straight. But its free its for me.
 
I use a marked stick and a little hatchet...walk the log & take a strike or two at each 16" length. Takes a nick out of the bark, goes pretty darned quickly. Works for me. Sometimes I hit the stick. When it gets ragged, I make a new one. Rick
 
I also have two measurabe marks on my bar: 16" and 18". I probably measure every other stick.
I burn my nubbins in the fire pit or in my small stove for the shoulder season. All the seasoned "good stuff" gets ranked in the basement for the gassifier.
Happy burning.
 
I cut 20 inch to 22 inch for the Oslo. I measure by marks I put on the saw housing. From bar tip to mark is either 20 or 22 inches.

I'll cut right to the end of the log, whatever's left over gets stacked if it's 16 inches or more and if it's just chunk wood I throw it on a pile to be burned on weekends when I'm at home and can throw it in the stove as needed.
 
The logs are easy and simple to stack and store but how do you store all the nubs left over? Seems like a crate made out of expanded metal would work okay.
 
For most all of that odd-sized stuff (frisbees, pancakes, etc.), as well as all the "splitter trash" I generate with the hydraulic splitter, I use a bunch of big Rubbermaid (or similar) plastic bins. They're easy to move around, and they stack nested as they empty. I burn most all that stuff in my shop stove. It's all fuel. Rick
 
I have a stick marked with 14, 16 and 18, I go down the log with chalk and mark it up. I'll adjust as needed, I try for no shorter then 14 and no longer then 18. I typically aim for 16, it makes it easier to fill the stove BUT if I'm cutting hickory/white oak(or other higher BTU woods) I'll cut 18 since I know that will be my over night wood or cold weather wood.
 
I burn a lot of cut offs because of my sources of wood. It gets tossed in a heap and burned before the snow starts to pile up.
 
From the side handle to the bor tip is 20". I hold the handle at the end of the log and cut a notch with the nose of the bar. Then I move down the log setting the handle in the notch I just made and make another one 20" down the log. Rinse, lather, repeat.

I also have a stick with notches every 20 inches that I lay on the log and then mark the log with the nose of the bar. I have a sawbuck too that has legs spaced 20" apart.
 
Tree companies never cut the logs the same size. They are always different sizes !!!!
 
I either use the bar on my saw or after cutting for a bit eye-ball things . . . the bucked pieces are pretty close typically . . . and even if they're not, as long as they're short enough they'll still burn even if they're an inch or two or even three shorter . . . and for that small of a difference stacking is a non-issue. Sometimes I get bucked pieces that are a bit long . . . I just toss those aside to be cut up again.
 
I take the long road b/c I never thought @ chalk. I Use a metal ruler and a metre hand saw. just a stroke or two to mark the bark I guess whatever works for you.
 
fossil said:
I use a marked stick and a little hatchet...walk the log & take a strike or two at each 16" length. Takes a nick out of the bark, goes pretty darned quickly. Works for me. Sometimes I hit the stick. When it gets ragged, I make a new one. Rick


I do the same except I use an axe rather than a hatchet. I always have the axe with me for some trimming. A guy could also use a black marker.
 
Don't wait til the last cut to figure out your logs will be long. You have to do it a cut or two before that.
 
I use the bar also, only for the first few cuts then the eye seems to get trained.
 
I made up a rope with zip ties every 16" for this past weekend.
Had my nephews with me and that worked real nice. It dont work
quiet so good just with 1 person, but Im going to keep tinkering with it.

I too have and do use my saw as a guide also, but after a while I get tired
and start eyeballing the cuts.
 
I use the bar on my saw, which is supposed to be 16 inches but is actually shorter, or eyeball it. I try to look ahead and not leave pieces that are a little too long. Instead, I try to split the difference among the last few pieces, making several 14 inchers instead of two sixteens and a ten, for example. However, I still end up with lots of oddball ends, which go in the center of my round holz hausen stacks. I cut a lot of trees that have lots of crotches, Ys, etc., which further adds to the number of odd pieces. My system results in firewood that is not very uniform, so if you want uniformity don't follow my example. I use my system because I don't want to bother spending too much time measuring.
 
Same here with the notches and Y's. The trees around here are not tall straight trees and most of what I cut is mesquite and oak when I can. The stacks aren't pretty but still seem to burn okay.
 
Back in the fraternity days, we had a frat brother who was so proud of a "log" he put a quarter on it and took a picture.... er, maybe that wasnt the kind of log you were asking about?
 
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