How do you find the holes?

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n6crv

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Aug 5, 2007
332
Hillsdale Co. Michigan
Hello, been some great help so thought I would try for another answer. I clean my chimney from the bottom. So I take the screws out of two connections to be able to slide the pipe apart. Is there a easy way of finding the holes to put the screws back in the same places? Before I just had to keep drilling more holes or if I got close to the same hole using bigger screws. Also another question I have always cleaned my old stainless chimney using a metal brush because of the glaze that I got. I would even use a screw driver do scrape it off of the chimney as far up as I could reach. Now I under stand that I should be using a Poly brush to clean a Stainless chimney. Will it clean anywhere near as good? I hope that with the new Englander and chimney, that I won't have the glaze but want to be ready if needed.
Thanks!
Don
 
N6CRV said:
Hello, been some great help so thought I would try for another answer. I clean my chimney from the bottom. So I take the screws out of two connections to be able to slide the pipe apart. Is there a easy way of finding the holes to put the screws back in the same places? Before I just had to keep drilling more holes or if I got close to the same hole using bigger screws. Also another question I have always cleaned my old stainless chimney using a metal brush because of the glaze that I got. I would even use a screw driver do scrape it off of the chimney as far up as I could reach. Now I under stand that I should be using a Poly brush to clean a Stainless chimney. Will it clean anywhere near as good? I hope that with the new Englander and chimney, that I won't have the glaze but want to be ready if needed.
Thanks!

Don
Make pencil marks on both sections before you take them apart.
 
Hello Mike, have not changed it yes. They got here today THANKS for the great help. Think I'm going to take out the ash "plug" and just replace it with a fire brick. Using a scoop will be easier to get the ashes out. I did burn some news paper about 4 or 5 sheets to warm the flue pipe that I painted. Gee it sure heats up fast. Think it is going to be nice with the new chimney and all. Have a good one.
Don
 
N6CRV said:
Hello Mike, have not changed it yes. They got here today THANKS for the great help. Think I'm going to take out the ash "plug" and just replace it with a fire brick. Using a scoop will be easier to get the ashes out. I did burn some news paper about 4 or 5 sheets to warm the flue pipe that I painted. Gee it sure heats up fast. Think it is going to be nice with the new chimney and all. Have a good one.
Don

hey wait til ya get some wood in it!!! as for the changeover, look in the manual for the brick diagram, remove the bricks and the door (lifts off ) to lighten the unit , then carefully tip the stove backon its back,andremove the pedistal ,you will need a 9/19 wrench oir socket for this, after removing the pedistal, locate the slots in each corner. the legs have carriage bolts which fite in these slots. install the legs, stand the unit up and level with the bolts in the base of each leg, then install the flue, and let her rip. call me if you have questions.

mike ESW
 
The comment about marking the pipes is the best approach, though I tend to use a "Sharpie" pen rather than a pencil - the technique of using lines scribed across the parts is pretty much standard any time you need to line things up in a "keyed" way.

The other thing I'd mention as a caution is that you need to make sure you have an airtight seal on your cleanout door, so if you are going to replace the "ash plug" with a fire brick, you might want to think about how you will gasket the joint... The only place air should be able to get into the flue is either by going through the stove or coming down from the top like Santa Claus...

Gooserider
 
Thanks for the info. That is the way I have been doing the pipes with a scribe mark. Guess just after taking the screws out so much the holes get bigger. I thought about a air leak also but the plug in the Englander 13 in not much more then a casted plug that sticks up a little above the fire bricks. The ash pan is very shallow so don't think it will really be of much use. The plug has a kind of a loop with a hole so it can be removed. With it in it would be hard to use a scoop to get all the ashes out. Not sure but almost think that once the fire brick gets some ashes around it the seal would even be better then the plug. Now I hope they don't want air to get around the plug. Mike might jump in on that one. Still would like some input on the brush, poly or metal. THANKS!
Don
 
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