Horizontal run question

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courtsandan

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 5, 2009
15
S. Central Michigan
I have searched the forums on "horizontal flue" and read what I have found......even after that I am going to ask for advice. I have the basement framed and wired - drywall starts next week. The place I have framed in for the stove is 20 ft from the nearest wall. Why would I do that, you ask. I asked (prior to construction start) a couple pellet stove dealers if it was possible and was told that anything over 14ft horizontal was possible if I used 4 inch flue. after reading the posts and calling more places I fear I am in trouble. My plan is to have a clean out tee on the back, veritcal for 6 foot, horizontal for 20 foot indoors, then through the wall of the house and then up a couple feet. That gives me 2 foot of rise over 20 feet of horizontal run. I found a Lennox T300 used that matches the "look" I want so I called Lennox. The manual says 10 ft horizontal max. Tech support said my solution is possible but not preferred. ash build-up being the primary issue. Watching the video on the forum most of the ash will be in the clean out tee or close to it. Other threads mentioned the blowers can not handle the run. This is a supplemental heat source for my basement, not expected to heat the house. If cleaning the flue once a month is required - I can handle it. Usage will be evenings and weekends. Are there other models with stronger blowers? Tech said 4 inch will not help much - I still plan to use it. Let me have it.........I have to put something in the alcove I have built for the stove - beside a flower pot. Thanks in advance for your honest advice.
 
Tech support suggested a 45 before and after the 20ft run just to help the situation rather than 90's. Not sure how to go up then over at an incline. Do double wall elbows come in other degrees than 45 or 90? adjustable? I assume I have to use 4 inch double wall for pellet stove venting. Really do not want to buy a stove with 30 feet of pipe and find out it will not work. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I suspect much potential for a problem getting a good burn and efficient heating results even when clean. I've seen a lot of problem posts even with more typical up and out vent applications. I never like to rework my own work but it will be easier to change before drywall than after. But then again, likely most people thought Wilbur and Orville were on a wild goose chase. Good luck with whatever you do.
 
I know dirt about this. But it sounds like trouble. Find an exterior wall. Poke a hole . Install a thimble. add some pipe. Hook stove to pipe. Stove will run.

Kinda the best way to do it. If you don't want issue's with the stove. Follow the stoves manual.

Hope we can talk you into the easy way.
jay
 
Thanks for the input. When you say a "good burn" - this is reference to the back pressure created by the long flue? If the fire box/combustion blower has enough back pressure from the flue "network" it burns dirty or nor at all?
 
hawgcooker said:
Thanks for the input. When you say a "good burn" - this is reference to the back pressure created by the long flue? If the fire box/combustion blower has enough back pressure from the flue "network" it burns dirty or nor at all?
The restriction may be such a clean burn cannot be achieved with normal range of pellet feed and combustion blower settings. This being the case an inventor would consider a larger CFM combustion blower but this would be a trial and error prototyping. Perhaps someone out there has tried this.
 
Plenty of people have enough problems with a proper and good installation. If you have to get an inspection, the inspector will go by what's in the installation manual, and so will any insurer if something were to happen. I built my hearth in a bad location in my house, it would have worked there but the piping would have been unsightly, and borderline with too many elbows. I wound up moving it before the install, it was a real pain in the arse, but I am glad I did. Plus, a twenty foot run of piping inside the house would make me nervous with potential leaks. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
I have asked a couple installers about power vents and been told they are not used on pellet stoves. Why not? They are basically flow boosters for flues or in duct work to increase the flow of heat to an area of a building or asisst in venting of a furnace/water heater with a long flue. With these sensitive stoves it would seem a power vent would only help them.
 
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