HELP!!! I need ideas for hearth pad

[michiganwinters]

I want to finish my hearth up asap but Im stuck on what I should use for the top of the hearth. I have a corner hearth that I framed out with 2x6 capped with 3/4" OSB. From there I used a new stone veneer which you can see here: (broken link removed). Looks stunning!! I tried using Tennessee flagstone in irregular shapes, sizes and pattern but it just doesnt look good.........plus Im not a mason so trying to get natural cuts with a chisel and dimond blade isnt so easy. Do you guys have any ideas to what I could use. Im trying to have a natural face overlapping the stone veneer I used but Im having a real hard time finding something........and regular foor tile doesnt give it justice. (((HELP))) Post some pics if you have em too! My final inspection is this Wen.

 

[begreen]

What stove is going on the hearth?

 

[michiganwinters]

New PE Summit..........all black.

 

[nshif]

I dont think thats gonna cut it as far as required R value, Hog where are you?

 

[Gooserider]

I would echo the concerns about the R-value. Also you really shouldn't be putting stone or tile directly onto plywood, you should be using some sort of cement backerboard. I emphatically reccomend Durock over other brands based on manufacturer specs.

What I just used was a "random" mix of sizes and color slate tiles, 1/4" thick in rectangular / square shapes. The slates came in this shape, but I did have to trim some to fit with a cheapo Harbor Freight tile saw ($60) that made it very easy. The result came out looking great, and since all the slate edges were straight, I didn't need to worry about matching the shapes to much.

Gooserider

 

[babalu87]

Tip one
MICORE

Tip two
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/search_results/d0ca3c762d02b1ace451a8674c2196b8/

 

[DriftWood]

You are paying a fee for that inspector to show up. If you are not ready cancel this inspection and reschedule the inspection when you are done, no sense spending the money till you are ready and need the final OK.

I called the inspector over for an ok on my plan first, he is a pro was easy to talk to, then I knew what he wanted, what the stove manual wants . You did read every page in your manual and are following it. Is your stove

The Summit Classic (broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/images/product_summit_classic.jpg) or The Summit (broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/images/product_summit.jpg)

Both call for;
U.S.A.
Non-combustile ember protection must be used. (Check local building codes for acceptable
construction materials.) This protection must be under the stove and must extend 16”to the front
and 8” to the sides of the fuel loading door opening. This protection is also required under the chimney connector and 2” beyond each side.

(broken link removed to http://www.northweststoves.ca/pdf/pac-wood/m-pacific-summit.pdf)

Call your inspector you need to know what he wants you to use.

That said 1/2 inch durock is UL-listed wall shield/floor protectors. Just tile or stone on "what ever" has no UL listing . You may not care but you can bet your inspector and your insurance company will.

(broken link removed to http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/Documents/Prod_Data_and_Submittal_Sheets/DrckCement_Board-Submittal_Sheet_CB399.pdf)

 

[Gooserider]

I'd second what Driftwood says. If he is quoting the PE manuals rightly, then what you should be using is a single layer of 1/2" Durock fastened with screws and thinset to your OSB base (check to make sure it has sufficient stiffness, should be L360 or more for tile, or L720 for stone - there is a calculator for checking it over on the John Bridge - Tile your world website) covered with whatever form of stone or tile fits your fancy.

According to the Durock submittal sheet, you need to use a "Latex fortified" thinset - I used "Flexbond" on my hearth extension, which meets the specs - and seems to work OK

It isn't required by code, but I think it's a good idea to put a layer of sheet metal between the Durock and the subfloor (if using multiple layers of Durock, between two of the layers instead) - I used aluminum roof flashing because it was easy for my setup, 26g or thicker steel sheet would also work. Again, thinset between each layer. I used a 3/16" triangle notch trowel to spread it, (wall trowel) but that was just to keep the total thickness of the material down, I really should have used a 1/4" square notch trowel for best structural strength.

Gooserider

 

[nshif]

If the manual doesnt require an R value then I agree with Goose go with the Duroc you wont have trouble with poped tiles like you will with OSB.

 

[babalu87]

Its 18" to the front for NEW installations

 

[michiganwinters]

Yes, my hearth is PLENTY big. I actually have 23" from the front glass of the stove to the edge of the hearth pad. I didnt want to have an issue with ash falling on to the new carpet when I opened the door. As far as using dura rock and whatnot.........I talked to several reps from the stone shop and they noted that the masons us tar paper then the mesh on top then scratch code of mud then rock with mudded joints. Im not really understanding why you would need durarock?? I dont think the stone or mud is flammable? Im thinking about having a concrete countertop or hearth pad poured.

 

[nshif]

I only used wire mesh on my walls. doesnt seem worh it to use felt then mesh instead of duroc maybe a slight cost savings. but if you have to buy a whole rool of felt (200 Sq ft ) maybe not

 

[michiganwinters]

Actually since I just finished building I had 15lb felt left over from the roof and some mesh left over from a project on a previous house. Im not cheaping out, it was what the stone store recommended for good bonding of 2" flagstone?

 

[nshif]

Well if you have the stuff use it, I had to have an R factor so I used the cement board and it worked just fine. Heres a pic

 

[swestall]

Yesterday evening I was at the local Home Depot and recalled this post. They had a really nice rough cut slate tile there, 8x8's that might work well for you. They also rent a wet saw (and will show you how to use it) which makes the cutting a breeze. The tile was about 3.8 thick but when applied looked much thicker. Take a look.

 

[DriftWood]

Yes, my hearth is PLENTY big. I actually have 23" from the front glass of the stove to the edge of the hearth pad. I didnt want to have an issue with ash falling on to the new carpet when I opened the door.

Good luck! I have burn marks 25 and 36 inches from my stove door. My hearth is 20 inches from the door. Be careful when reloading.

 

[DriftWood]

I talked to several reps from the stone shop and they noted that the masons us tar paper then the mesh on top then scratch code of mud then rock with mudded joints. Im not really understanding why you would need durarock??

You need to call your inspector with this plan question not the sales man. That way you will both be on the same CODE page.

 

[Gooserider]

1. Tar paper is combustible

2. The sales guys were talking about how to go up a vertical surface, you are going on a horizontal one - big difference

3. That I know of, your mesh and paper does not meet any codes - the Durock does...

Gooserider

 

[babalu87]

Well if you have the stuff use it, I had to have an R factor so I used the cement board and it worked just fine. Heres a pic

Thats a GREAT looking install.
Is that real rock or manufactured stone (concrete)
I want to do something with flagstone and still need a 1" space behind the concrete board.
Can that stuff be installed over concrete board that is attached to the wall with spacers?

I built a hearthpad and hung concrete board to reduce clearances and would like to be able to keep the clearances and have something other than painted durock behind the stove.

 

[nshif]

Thanks, Its Owens Corning cultured stone and tiles. The hearth is 11/2" tile on 2- 1/2" layers of cement board on metal studs on another layer of cement board over 3/4" plywood on wood studs. Walls are the cultured stone 21/2" thick on 1/2" cement board and metal diamond lathe on 2x6 studs. For clearance on the Quad I only needed 2" at the corners so spacer panel was not needed.