HELP! Granite Hearth Reaching 220 Degrees -Improperly Installed Quadra Fire Pioneer II?

[Monicarick]

We had our house built with a Quadra Fire Pioneer II, to look like the one in the mnf’s brochure, where the fireplace sits flush to the hearth. Originally we had Eldorado cap stones ‘White Cloud’ used for the hearth but the mason installed it too high and the grate wouldn’t open. This hearth stone did not get too hot but it scorched and looked awful so we upgraded to solid granite, when the mason fixed his mistake.

Now the hearth gets to 220 degrees and is dangerous to touch. The builder looked at installation pictures and realized like we did, the hearth was built with combustible materials and needs to be redone. We believe there are more installation issues as all our white grout has turned tan. We’ve only used the fireplace about 30 times, as we moved in 10/1/24.

FIRST QUESTION: if the hearth is built with cinder blocks instead of 2x4’s, can the design stay the same, with the granite slab located just under the grate, and not get so hot? Will that fix the heat issue? Or do we have to either go with another hearth material or lower the hearth or eliminate it entirely (which is what the builder wants us to do).

SECOND QUESTION: from the installation pictures, do you see anything amiss? These are the only pictures we have . We believe the non combustible front board does not reach the 80” it needs to per the installation manual.

THIRD QUESTION: any ideas as to why the white grout has turned light brown in a matter of 12 weeks?

Thank you SO MUCH for any advice.

 

[begreen]

It's good that you caught this error. The hearth needs at least R=1.03 insulation protection. This could be done with a layer of micore under the slab, but a cement block base would also work. The contractor needs to carefully review page 37 of the installation manual on building the hearth extension. Be sure the metal protective strips are in place before putting the granite slab back in place.

 

[stoveliker]

I do think that even with insulation under the granite, the granite would get as hot as now - possibly even hotter if it can't shed the heat down...

The grout is a question for a mason, I'd say.

 

[begreen]

Yes, the hearth will still get hot. That's not going to change, but the micore layer or cement block foundation will make it much safer.

 

[30WCF]

What is the second smaller pipe. Fresh air intake?

 

[begreen]

What is the second smaller pipe. Fresh air intake?

The left pipe is for air cooling the SL300 chimney pipe. It usually would go out the side of the chase. It must terminiate at least 3 ft below the chimney top. The right side pipe looks like it's for the OAK. This too must terminate at least 3 ft below the chimney top.

 

[30WCF]

The left pipe is for air cooling the SL300 chimney pipe. It usually would go out the side of the chase. It must terminiate at least 3 ft below the chimney top. The right side pipe looks like it's for the OAK. This too must terminate at least 3 ft below the chimney top.

Is that specific to this stove/type of stove? I thought the OAKs had to stay level or below the stove connection.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I agree the granite will continue to get warm. I wonder if this can be mitigated though with a pancake fan or 2 mounted mounted in an air space below it. It could act just like a regular fireplace blower and move air along the bottom of the slab to remove heat. A snap disc epoxied to it could make the on/off really easy.

 

[begreen]

Is that specific to this stove/type of stove? I thought the OAKs had to stay level or below the stove connection.

Keeping it low is recommended, even in this fireplace's installation manual. However, several fireplaces permit it to be higher, with some caveats.