Hello all, first time stove buyer!

[saabracer23]

Hello, just wanted to say hi and hope to get some advise. I live in Salem Oregon and pretty much my whole life my father has had a wood stove to heat the home. I have been married for almost 7 years now and my wife and I have been apartment dwellers until now. We are in a house now, it is 840 square feet total. I would guess there is no insulation in the walls, but the siding is cinder block and all of the windows are vinyl. The front door and back French doors are drafty I would say. The rears had about a 3/4" gap at the bottom which I had to fix. The heating is NG radiant floor heathing. The previous person told me the average winter bill was a bit over $300 a month.

The house does have a fireplace that I plan on putting a wood stove in. I will seal off the flu area allowing the vent pipe to go through so that I don't lose any heat and it'll allow the smoke to exit before it cools. I would like to keep my budget around $600 if I could. My fireplace opening is kinda small so I know I'll be limited. I was thinking I could remove the feet of whatever I buy and place it on bricks, the only flooring underneath is concrete as the house was built on a slab.

So here is what I have found so far:

Found but missed out on a reall nice Jotul, it was small. Sold very quickly at $450 :-(

Right know there is a Lopi Liberty on CL for $500, it looks to be in very good condition. I'm worried it may be too big for my 840 square foot home. I like owning a quality product.

Anything else right now just defaults to home depot or lowes. They only have one instock right now, a decent sized one with a free blower. Could care less about the blower. It's rated for 1800 square feet. Price is $750 but I'll get discounts. They said they'll be getting more in about 3-4 weeks.

I have 1 full cord of fir in the garage along with about 1/4 cord of oak. All I can handle right now. Any suggestions would be great! Will I be ok removing the feet from the wood stove? Oh and insert is not an option as I plan on taking the stove if I ever move and a stove can be used anywhere!

Thanks
Dan

 

[BrowningBAR]

Hello, just wanted to say hi and hope to get some advise. I live in Salem Oregon and pretty much my whole life my father has had a wood stove to heat the home. I have been married for almost 7 years now and my wife and I have been apartment dwellers until now. We are in a house now, it is 840 square feet total. I would guess there is no insulation in the walls, but the siding is cinder block and all of the windows are vinyl. The front door and back French doors are drafty I would say. The rears had about a 3/4" gap at the bottom which I had to fix. The heating is NG radiant floor heathing. The previous person told me the average winter bill was a bit over $300 a month.

The house does have a fireplace that I plan on putting a wood stove in. I will seal off the flu area allowing the vent pipe to go through so that I don't lose any heat and it'll allow the smoke to exit before it cools. I would like to keep my budget around $600 if I could. My fireplace opening is kinda small so I know I'll be limited. I was thinking I could remove the feet of whatever I buy and place it on bricks, the only flooring underneath is concrete as the house was built on a slab.

So here is what I have found so far:

Found but missed out on a reall nice Jotul, it was small. Sold very quickly at $450 :-(

Right know there is a Lopi Liberty on CL for $500, it looks to be in very good condition. I'm worried it may be too big for my 840 square foot home. I like owning a quality product.

Anything else right now just defaults to home depot or lowes. They only have one instock right now, a decent sized one with a free blower. Could care less about the blower. It's rated for 1800 square feet. Price is $750 but I'll get discounts. They said they'll be getting more in about 3-4 weeks.

I have 1 full cord of fir in the garage along with about 1/4 cord of oak. All I can handle right now. Any suggestions would be great! Will I be ok removing the feet from the wood stove? Oh and insert is not an option as I plan on taking the stove if I ever move and a stove can be used anywhere!

Thanks
Dan

You can search your surrounding areas more easily with a site like http://www.searchtempest.com that searches CraigsList ads with in a certain radius of your zip code.

Also, with a drafty home you will need to over-size the stove. By how much depends upon how drafty your home is. The Liberty is quite a large stove for 850 sq ft. Price is right. It should definitely heat your home, drafty or not.

 

[DexterDay]

Lopi Liberty for $500 is a deal. But dont forget that you must vent the stove also. A Liner can run run upwards to the Top of you budget ($500-$1,200), thats not even a stove yet. I am not sure of the size of your chimney, but most should be lined/insulated. It will save you many problems down the road. Here are a few questions that will better help us understand what type of ride your in for.

1. Whats the size of your Fireplace/Dimensions?

2. Is it Masonry or a Pre-Fab? Plays a Big part.

3. What size is your Chimney/Flue? (6x6 Tile? 6x12 Tile? 8" Steel?)

 

[woodchip]

A warm welcome to the forum.

Plenty of good advice round here, I've learned loads

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum saabracer23.

Good luck on finding a stove in that price range. Don't be afraid to go bigger than recommended with the stove as that is much better than being too small or having to run a small stove really hot all the time. Also, with the small stove, you will have to reload quite often whereas a larger stove will serve you better for overnight.

I would be very concerned with your wood supply. 1 1/4 cord is not much wood for a winter. Also, how long since that oak was split? Oak is a tough one that needs lots of time to dry right. Burn it too early and you can have many problems including creosote problems and you don't want chimney fires. If you plan on burning this winter, do try to find more wood ASAP. Wood simply needs time to dry properly before it is burned. And don't listen to the old wood burners who used to go cut and burn right away. That won't work in today's stoves and was a very poor plan for Grandpa too.

 

[Dix]

Check out these

http://www.overstockstoves.com/index.html

And a major plus one Dennis's post on getting the firewood together.

 

[RoseRedHoofbeats]

+1 on the overstockstoves! Couldn't be happier with mine. The model I have might not be enough stove since you say it's drafty, but it has super low clearances. Shove some towels around the doorjams. =P

~Rose

 

[FyreBug]

So your choice is a stove or an insert. Once you get the info of what kind of fireplace dimensions etc... we can help. You can get a high efficiency insert for about $800 to $900 on Northern Tools. That's about the least expensive I saw for a brand new one.

Also you can check this Thread where a PO needs to sell his insert cheap. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/78352/

 

[saabracer23]

Thanks for all the help guys. As far as the drafty home, it's an ongoing battle. I have all of the windows covered so now just the doors. Ive almost got them sealed.

Thanks for the search and overstock stove link, I'll have some looking to do.

My opening is 32-1/4" wide, 26" tall, and 25" deep. As far as the flue, it's the metal thing that opens, it's 32" by 6". My chimney opening at the roof is 15"x 6-1/2". I don't believe it's a prebuilt,it's original to the house which was built in the late 20's or early 30's. It's all brick and mortar, how would I know for sure? If I could get away with not running a pipe all the way up the chimney I would like to. I thought I read that if you sealed off the flue from the opening there wouldn't be a problem. Either way the budget for the stove is around six, any extras I'll pay for I guess. I'll see if I can go for that liberty. I'll give them a call.

As far as the wood supply goes, its all I can hold for now, until I can build a shed sometime. If I'm running low all it takes is a call to a guy I know and in two or three days I'll have a cord of dry wood at my doorstep. All I'll need is a non rainy day for delivery, but good luck in Oregon. The oak I got from my dad, I would say it's been split for 4 years, maybe 3.

Thanks
Dan

 

[DexterDay]

You have a Masonry Fireplace. If its all brick and mortar.

3 things.

1.) with a 15" x 6.5" Tile chimney, I think you will have to use a Liner. I dont own an insert, but I have read almost every Thread on this Forum. And that is a large opening, that will not draft well at all.

2.) With a 26" hieght on your fireplace. You will more than likely need a Rear vent only stove. If you go the Freestanding route.

3.) You will also need a hearth extension if you have get a freestanding.

Cheap liner can be had for $600 shipped. A memeber just installed an Equinox and got his liner for under $600 if I remember correct.

 

[DexterDay]

Does it have to be up the Fireplace??? Another member has Thread about Supervent being so cheap... It may cost about the same.. $500-$700 with the Through the wall/Ceiling kit. But if you used Single wall inside and only needed 2 sections of Class A it could be pretty cheap. Also search Craiglist. Lots of Chimney sections go on sale.

 

[saabracer23]

You have a Masonry Fireplace. If its all brick and mortar.

3 things.

1.) with a 15" x 6.5" Tile chimney, I think you will have to use a Liner. I dont own an insert, but I have read almost every Thread on this Forum. And that is a large opening, that will not draft well at all.

2.) With a 26" hieght on your fireplace. You will more than likely need a Rear vent only stove. If you go the Freestanding route.

3.) You will also need a hearth extension if you have get a freestanding.

Cheap liner can be had for $600 shipped. A memeber just installed an Equinox and got his liner for under $600 if I remember correct.

Ok, an insert is not an option as I want this to have the ability to be used anywhere if I end up leaving. Hmmm well I may have to do a liner, that's poopy! I'll check CL for a liner. Could I do a top vent if I take the legs off of the stove? That was the original plan. My plan was to place the liner up in the chimney, slide the stove in and drop the liner onto the vent. As far as a hearth extension, out in front of the fireplace there is 20" of tile that extends out, on top of concrete. Will that be ok?

Dan

 

[DexterDay]

Pics. Pics help a lot.

 

[saabracer23]

I'll get pics posted, I also have another local option. It's a Jotul for $120?
It a Jotul good? It's one of the taller slender ones with elk and deer on the side.

Dan

 

[fossil]

No, it's not OK to take the legs off of a freestanding woodstove. That's not the way they're designed, UL listed, tested and certified. Many have air controls or ash pans beneath the firebox that would be rendered inoperable (Lopi Liberty included). Rick

 

[saabracer23]

Hey, another Oregonian! Hello. I wasn't planning on taking the legs off and setting it down on the bottom of the stove, just shortning them a little bit to make it fit. Here are some pics of my fire place.

here is a link to that Jotul, let me know what you think

(broken link removed to http://salem.craigslist.org/hsh/2567845480.html)

it doesn't say it in the add but you can tell what it is.

Thanks,
Dan

P.S. don't mind the audio wires, they'll be moved.

 

[RoseRedHoofbeats]

Don't worry too too much about your wood this first year. Practically nobody starts off with great wood their first year, because every newbie (raises hand) gets their stove around this time of year and then looks around for something to burn. I would buy as much wood as you can, play around the stove, and figure on not burning 24/7. That way, NEXT year you'll have a load of very nicely seasoned wood. Just clean your chimney very well!

Altering the stove in general is v. bad idea. The stoves are tested and designed and then tested some more under their intended operation, installation, and form. Sure, you can (and a lot of people do) kludge stuff together and manage not to set their house on fire, but it's not a great idea. It would also make you VERY liable if anything did happen as far as insurance goes. I would also imagine it would impact how it heats and draws in air- my stove for example has the air intake on the bottom. If I set it directly on the ground I'd have to leave the door open to get enough air and it'd essentially be a very expensive, very small fireplace.

You'll get the most out of your stove if you have a liner- it will draft better that way. The smaller the space that the warm smoke and various air and gasses have to go through, the greater the velocity, which means it draws the lighter, warm air up better, which creates a vacuum as the heavier, cold air rushes in, pushing the warm up and out the chimney. If you run a waterhose with your finger over it, the water that shoots around it goes faster than if you didn't have your finger there. Same principle. Roughly. There's a specific formula for it that I can't remember, but that's the basic idea.

As for the CL ad, ask for more pictures- all sides of the stove, the door, the inside, etc. If it's really a Jotul than $120 is a positive steal and even if the door were missing and the damper was rusted shut you could probably get it fixed for less than a new one would cost.

Anyway, that's all I'm going to pretend to know anything about. Welcome to the forums!

~Rose

 

[karl]

I don't want to be a nay sayer, but September is not the time of year to 'get ready' to heat with wood and $600.00 is not a realistic budget. September isn't all that bad. You have to start sometime and you can always muddle through the first year. Most of us did.

$600.00 is a two month pay back. That's way too much to expect. A two year payback on something for a house is considered very good. That would be $3600.00 and would get you about any setup you want. I realize money is tight but you really need to find a balance between buying junk or installing it on the cheap and getting something good. Ask yourself how long you plan on living there.

In 2007 I bought a PE Summit Insert and a stainless steel liner for $2550. With buying wood my payback finished up sometime last heating season. Probably early that season. I now upwards of 20 years of heating my house for $300.00 a year or so instead of $300.00 a month. I also have a beautiful stove that's easy to use and quite effective.

As for what to get. I would recommend an insert. They are designed to go in a fireplace opening. Stoves are not although many people in here have great luck with them in fireplaces. A blower is pretty much a must when you have something setting in a fireplace opening. Also $300.00 a month for less than a 1000 square feet means that place is super drafty. I'm sure over the years you will improve on that. Therefore, I would consider a catalytic insert. They will burn lower than a non catalytic. So you can buy a big stove now and burn it on high and heat the place and once you get the insulation worked out. You can burn it on low and get crazy long burn times.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Thanks for all the help guys. As far as the drafty home, it's an ongoing battle. I have all of the windows covered so now just the doors. Ive almost got them sealed.

Thanks for the search and overstock stove link, I'll have some looking to do.

My opening is 32-1/4" wide, 26" tall, and 25" deep. As far as the flue, it's the metal thing that opens, it's 32" by 6". My chimney opening at the roof is 15"x 6-1/2". I don't believe it's a prebuilt,it's original to the house which was built in the late 20's or early 30's. It's all brick and mortar, how would I know for sure? If I could get away with not running a pipe all the way up the chimney I would like to. I thought I read that if you sealed off the flue from the opening there wouldn't be a problem. Either way the budget for the stove is around six, any extras I'll pay for I guess. I'll see if I can go for that liberty. I'll give them a call.

As far as the wood supply goes, its all I can hold for now, until I can build a shed sometime. If I'm running low all it takes is a call to a guy I know and in two or three days I'll have a cord of dry wood at my doorstep. All I'll need is a non rainy day for delivery, but good luck in Oregon. The oak I got from my dad, I would say it's been split for 4 years, maybe 3.

Thanks
Dan

Dan that is great on the 4 year old oak. That should be some excellent wood. However, I don't understand that you can't get more wood until you get a shed. Also the statement about non rainy days for wood delivery. A little rain won't hurt the wood at all. Wood is not a sponge. Many folks stack all their wood outdoors and don't even cover it. Most are wise to stack the wood outdoors to get it dry before moving it into a shed.

You also need to be very aware on how that wood you get from that fellow is handled. Wood doesn't dry until it is split and most sellers split just before delivery and many both cut and split before delivery. That is a formula for terrible fires and lots of creosote. You'll also find that most folks tend to think that a tree that has been cut down and laid for a couple of years has to be dry. Not so! Even dead standing you have to be careful with because the bottom part of the tree is usually full of moisture. The top of the dead tree may be dry but not the bottom.

Good luck.

 

[DexterDay]

Agreed on the Wood. I will leave mine outside for a year or 2. Then move it into the little Shed. It holds a little over 3 Cord. Wood will be fine outside. Nice to cover the year you use it, so you dont have to worry about Snow coming in the house and sitting on your splits.

There is no top vent that you could use. Also looking into liners now, will help you save a buck when you do go to buy one,

Do your homework now and it will pay dividends down the road. I would also look into Class A and going out and up the side of the house, or straight up through the house. May be cheaper to do it this way.

Finding a used Rear vent and running a liner could cost more. Northern Tool has a new Insert for $799 or $899, plus a liner $550 (find a cheap one shipped) Plus a few other Misc parts, your looking at $1,500-$1,700. which is not terrible. We spent just over $4,000 on our Quadrafire pellet stove w/3 tons of pellets 3 years ago. We spent about $4,000/yr on Propane ($338 per month/on the budget, which means in July, I was paying $338) . Have used ZERO since. So we almost paid for everything in the 1st year,. By the end of the 2nd season. We were making money. Like karl stated earlier, Dont try to skimp. The savings will multiply over the years. Look down different avenues. If you had a larger fireplace or an alcove, a freestanding would work, but an insert w/ liner is the best choice. IMHO.