Heatilator Novis - Intermittent Operation

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speedy

Member
Jun 29, 2019
23
Maryland
Hello all. I would appreciate any help the experts here may be able to provide.

I have a Heatilator Novus GNDC36L propane fireplace. Last year it started to have the main flames go out while the pilot stayed lit. After a few seconds the burner would re-ignite. It would do this several times.

I had a company look into it and the tech said it needed a new thermocouple/thermopile assembly, so I paid him to replace it. It still did the same thing afterward, so I hired a different company to fix it. The new technician said the new thermocouple/thermopile wasn’t installed correctly and it needed another new one. Fine. I paid for another one to be installed. This one has a bigger pilot light flame than either the original or the first one replaced.

It still did the same thing, so this winter I had the same company #2 return to see why. A different tech from the 2nd company spent over an hour here, called Heatilator for advice, and said he “thinks” I need a new burner assembly. This will cost over $1000 and they can’t even tell me what the new burner assembly is – if it is just the physical burner or if it also contains valves, etc. Also, one reason he thinks it needs a new burner is because it “feels hot” under the burner where the valves are and there are two “knockouts” on the top of the burner and he thinks only the one “knockout” should have been removed when it was installed. He thinks the second opening is letting too much heat under the burner. However, a neighbor has this same Heatilator unit and both knockouts are removed on his burner.

I’m not confident in spending this money on a new burner as I’m not confident in the diagnosis.

Any ideas?
 
Hello all. I would appreciate any help the experts here may be able to provide.

I have a Heatilator Novus GNDC36L propane fireplace. Last year it started to have the main flames go out while the pilot stayed lit. After a few seconds the burner would re-ignite. It would do this several times.

I had a company look into it and the tech said it needed a new thermocouple/thermopile assembly, so I paid him to replace it. It still did the same thing afterward, so I hired a different company to fix it. The new technician said the new thermocouple/thermopile wasn’t installed correctly and it needed another new one. Fine. I paid for another one to be installed. This one has a bigger pilot light flame than either the original or the first one replaced.

It still did the same thing, so this winter I had the same company #2 return to see why. A different tech from the 2nd company spent over an hour here, called Heatilator for advice, and said he “thinks” I need a new burner assembly. This will cost over $1000 and they can’t even tell me what the new burner assembly is – if it is just the physical burner or if it also contains valves, etc. Also, one reason he thinks it needs a new burner is because it “feels hot” under the burner where the valves are and there are two “knockouts” on the top of the burner and he thinks only the one “knockout” should have been removed when it was installed. He thinks the second opening is letting too much heat under the burner. However, a neighbor has this same Heatilator unit and both knockouts are removed on his burner.

I’m not confident in spending this money on a new burner as I’m not confident in the diagnosis.

Any ideas?
Check the low voltage wall switch. A faulty wall switch will cause the problem that you describe.
 
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Thanks for the reply, Lennox65! I know the tech told the Heatilator guy while he had him on the phone that he checked the wall switch, but I'm not sure how he did that.

What's the best way for me to check the wall switch? I have a multimeter. Is it just a simple toggle switch just like is used for a 120V light switch? If so, seems like it is a no-brainer for me to go to Home Depot and buy one for a dollar and just replace it with a new one.
 
Thanks for the reply, Lennox65! I know the tech told the Heatilator guy while he had him on the phone that he checked the wall switch, but I'm not sure how he did that.

What's the best way for me to check the wall switch? I have a multimeter. Is it just a simple toggle switch just like is used for a 120V light switch? If so, seems like it is a no-brainer for me to go to Home Depot and buy one for a dollar and just replace it with a new one.
The best way to check it is to disconnect the two low voltage wires from the switch and put them together and see if the fireplace runs continuously like that. If it does, the switch is your problem and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't fix it you will need to start working back to the valve, checking the wire, connections etc.

You can test the switch with a meter but I never bother with that.
 
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The best way to check it is to disconnect the two low voltage wires from the switch and put them together and see if the fireplace runs continuously like that. If it does, the switch is your problem and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't fix it you will need to start working back to the valve, checking the wire, connections etc.

You can test the switch with a meter but I never bother with that.
Thank you!

If it is the switch, can I just use a regular 120V light switch to replace it?
 
I took out the switch and connected the wires directly and it burned continuously for 2 hours without going out!

Now, it's colder outside (and slightly colder inside) that it has been all year but otherwise the only difference is removing the switch. I'm gonna replace the switch this weekend and see if it continues to work normally.

Thanks again, Lennox65, for your help.
 
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I replaced the switch. We've burned it several times since, for over 6 hours combined, with no further problems. This is such a weight off my mind. I almost spent another $1000 dollars with the HVAC company for another ineffective "cure".

Lennox65, if you were here, I'd buy you your favorite beverage and toast you.
 
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Oh my. I fix these professionally and I follow behind other companies that can't follow through and could tell you stories.
 
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