hearthstone heritage,blower kit or not

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Hollis

New Member
Feb 24, 2011
7
central ny
First year with the hearthstone
1800 sq ft house, pretty well insulated but im not getting enough heat ,i use a fan blowing on the glass and it works but it gets COLD in central ny.
I am thinking of getting a factory blower kit is this redundant or a good investment (300$ )?
my wood is well seasoned oak, ash,cherry and, maple (about pineapple sized and 16 inches long) and to keep the house above
64 or so I'm getting up every 2 to 3 hours. i stack as much as i can fit and try to balance heat vs burn time but 3 hours is the good heat limit
i personally dont mind waking up to 55 to 59 degrees but at 50 our parrot's life is at risk (therefore mine as well )
So these are my 2 questions (1) blower kit or not? (2)get used to 3 hour sleep nights or start up the oil furnace
I would appreate any help. thank you Hollis
 
I would invest in a blower. My brother has a mansfield and without the blower in the dead of winter it doesnt heat his place for beans, and its only roughly 1300 SF 1 story. I invested in a blower when i bought my PE Super 27. I skiped the ash pan and went for the blower, best thing i ever did.
 
I too use a fan blowing at about a 45 degree+/- angle to the front of the stove (ie. the glass and the cast). The fan is about 4 feet from the corner of the stove. It is on a rheostat, so I can vary the fan speed.

It works very well and quickly sets up a hot air current which gets - eventually - to all corners of the house. I don't always run it, but when I do I usually run it at the lowest speed. The fan will bring the house temp up 2 or 3 degrees in an hour - and that's in the rooms farthest from the stove!

I had the factory blower kit on another stove. I wasn't impressed. Besides being quite noisy, it took a very long time to notice a difference in the house temp.
Just my 2 cents worth!
 
Hi Hollis, and welcome to hearth.com. This is a terrific place for questions, support, and camraderie, esp. if you take yours a bit on the goofy side.

This is my first year with a Heritage as well. 2000sf, pretty well insulated. I do not use a fan blowing on the glass, I get enough heat, and it gets pretty cold in central AK as well. I keep the house at about 70F when I'm awake, and usually awaken to about 65-68 when it's zero or above outside (in the morning. after I've had a good night's sleep. like this is supposed to work). This stove kept this house warm even during a recent extended cold snap (-20 to -30F). My wood is well-seasoned aspen and cottonwood, with the occasional stick of spruce thrown in. Reading about people burning wood that around here is used for fine furniture still seems a little unreal--birch is as good as it gets here, and I don't have any. Hoping next year I will.

I fill my stove at night, and get up to a warm house. The only thing that gets me up at night is my dog; when I'm up waiting for her to come back, sometimes I go down and check the fire while she's outside, and sometimes I just watch the secondaries dance. (I'm afraid to go back to bed and miss the dog scratching on the door. She could die out there. So I do something that keeps me awake until she comes back.)

I fill my stove in the morning, leave for work, and come home in the evening to a warm house.

Today was my first day back at work after a three-day storm kept me home-bound, and we had a power failure during the storm. Keeping the house warm was not one of my worries--thank goodness I had the stove, as I've said 100 times this winter. My boiler failed spectacularly in January--high drama, smoke and steam and green goo all over the garage--still not replaced it, so I haven't any choice but to get good at this.

Longest burn I had producing useable heat was an 11-1/2 hour burn at -20F, gone all day and came home to a 65F house. My temps upstairs and downstairs usually differ by 1-2 degrees. Eight hours is a piece of cake. So this is what the stove is capable of; given that your house is a mite smaller, in a warmer climate with more sunlight, and your wood is vastly superior to mine, my thought is that you should be getting the same or better results from your stove--it's just a matter of tweaking a few things. You can't keep getting up in the middle of the night--this is a stove, not a sick child. It's supposed to be taking care of you.

Unless you have three-hundredses to burn, I'd encourage you to learn more about operating it with what you have. I have had the dubious advantage of having to get good at this or have the house freeze up; you have a shivering parrot; we are both motivated learners. If I can be of service sharing what I have learned to get to this point, please let me know. Some of the things to consider are layout, siting, construction, and materials of house, stovepipe location and design, draft--for starters. If this is the sort of thing that amuses you, than yours is the sort of problem that can provide us with plenty of entertainment, and hopefully you with a solution.

This would then be my advice: learn more, tweak, and see if you can't up the performance of your stove before you go out and buy an accessory that keeps you electricity-dependent for heat. If you have a power failure, you're back where you started with a cold house and a cold bird and no furnace to fall back on.

ETA: Was just downstairs checking to see if the coals had burned down sufficiently to lay my night fire. To my annoyance, my son was running a fan pointed at his xbox (trying to waylay the `red eye of death' by keeping his unit cool) and the overblow was hitting my stovepipe. That's when I did the exaggerated headslap a la `I coulda-woulda-shouda . . . '--it irritates me when he does that because it cools off the stove. So my question for you: do you *always* have the fan blowing on the glass? What happens if you don't?
 
You're gonna need another hundred for the rear heat shield if you're gonna install the blower...
For $400 beans you can get a LOT of box fans, Super Quiet doorway fans or ceiling fans.
They will distribute the heat as well as the blower & they will be MUCH less noisy.
Just my $.02...
 
I've been toying w/ the same question. I'm heating a poorly insulated old house and when it's even remotely cool the only good we get from the unit is the ambiance of the fire. There is a significant difference when we place a fan blowing at the stove. I discussed the blower with my installer and he said it's an option but they rarely sell them because of cost vs benefit compared to a $20 fan. So for now I'll stick w/ the fan. Mine is installed sitting in a fireplace so I aim the fan at a 45 degree angle into the fireplace behind the stove. It blows warm air out the other side and really heats up the room and sometimes the adjacent rooms. It never keeps upstairs bedrooms even remotely warm.

My house in anything from ideal but even I have no issues with reload times. During the day we'll reload every 3-4 hours on average and at night the house may drop down into the mid 60s (which is OK by me).
 
Thanks for the replies. When I got this stove it came with a heat shield,
it is centrally located and the exhaust pipe is double walled.installed early 2010.
Upstairs I boxed in the chimney leaving 18in x 4 ft opening(soon to finish)
to reclaim some of the heat before it is lost.
A large fan is 6 ft away and a smaller fan is in the top right corner of a
doorway leading to the tv room.
I will put on 2 or 3 logs for burn time, and do chores
this should take 1.5 hours and when i return the stove will be hungry and i will put 2 more logs
this will burn for 2 more hours and its ground hog day once again. i dont think its possible to have a flame
after 4 hours and heat the house. as i have no thermometer im only estimating the heat of the stove,
but the choke is 2/3's closed.
thanks. Hollis.
 
gdk84 said:
I would invest in a blower. My brother has a mansfield and without the blower in the dead of winter it doesnt heat his place for beans, and its only roughly 1300 SF 1 story. I invested in a blower when i bought my PE Super 27. I skiped the ash pan and went for the blower, best thing i ever did.


Sounds like your brother either has wet wood or is missing a wall or two on his house.
 
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Hollis said:
First year with the hearthstone
1800 sq ft house, pretty well insulated but im not getting enough heat ,i use a fan blowing on the glass and it works but it gets COLD in central ny.
I am thinking of getting a factory blower kit is this redundant or a good investment (300$ )?
my wood is well seasoned oak, ash,cherry and, maple (about pineapple sized and 16 inches long) and to keep the house above
64 or so I'm getting up every 2 to 3 hours. i stack as much as i can fit and try to balance heat vs burn time but 3 hours is the good heat limit
i personally dont mind waking up to 55 to 59 degrees but at 50 our parrot's life is at risk (therefore mine as well )
So these are my 2 questions (1) blower kit or not? (2)get used to 3 hour sleep nights or start up the oil furnace
I would appreate any help. thank you Hollis


How hot are you getting the stove? What is the stove top temp?
 
I never had a customer be thrilled the the fan kit on a Heritage, or any soapstone stove. Ive seen them work and they do help a little, but without a true convection system it aint so great.
 
+1 on BrowningBar

I'm thinking the right questions aren't being asked. Is the stove coming up to temps? Are you losing a lot of heat out the chimney? Or not getting the heat in the first place?

Keep the info coming . . .
 
ryanm527 - If your Mansfield sitting fully inside a fireplace you will need a fan to get heat out of it. This is a radiant stove. You're heating the cavity and surrounding material with it so you need a way to get the heat out.

Hollis - If your Heritage is centrally located and you don't need the heat shield to meet clearance requirements, you should remove it. You're blocking radiant heat from from a very large surface area on your stove. As others have suggested, report to us what your stovetop temperature is. You should be able to get to 450 or 500.
 
johnstra said:
ryanm527 - If your Mansfield sitting fully inside a fireplace you will need a fan to get heat out of it. This is a radiant stove. You're heating the cavity and surrounding material with it so you need a way to get the heat out.

Hollis - If your Heritage is centrally located and you don't need the heat shield to meet clearance requirements, you should remove it. You're blocking radiant heat from from a very large surface area on your stove. As others have suggested, report to us what your stovetop temperature is. You should be able to get to 450 or 500.


With good wood you should easily be able to get it over 500°.
 
Do you have a damper in the stovepipe? Have you ever tested your draft? It may be excessive.
 
Franks said:
I never had a customer be thrilled the the fan kit on a Heritage, or any soapstone stove. Ive seen them work and they do help a little, but without a true convection system it aint so great.

That is basically what my installer told me. He said (at least on these types of stoves) they aren't that effective at moving a lot of air. I figure if he doesn't want to make a $400 sale there is probably a good reason. Looking back, in my setup I wonder if a convection would have been better. Regardless, I like the Mansfield. I find myself looking over at the fire most of the night instead of whatever is on tv.
 
OK
So i got a thermometer(rutland) and stuck it in the oven and it tested accurate.
I put the thermometer on the stove, the damper is wide open, and the logs are flaming pretty
respectable.( the stove has been in use for at least 24 hours)After 45 mins the thermometer reads 250.
Thats it. I have 3 dry logs burning beautifully
i could fit maybe 1 more in but if left as is this would burn (with a flame) for 2 hours total ( all hardwoods) then
just pretty little red embers.
The stove pipe goes up 40 inches(approx) does a 30 degree angle for 20 inches than another 30 degree angle
to rite itself, then goes thru the ceiling to the second floor. I have a two story house each floor has approx 7.5 ft
ceilings with a 4 or 5 ft attic. The stove is 12 or 13 inches from the cement board wall so i have a heat shield.
Should i con-cider a damper in the flue? why are my burn time vs stove heat so much different than all you happy campers?
Thanks again .Hollis
 
Hollis said:
OK
So i got a thermometer(rutland) and stuck it in the oven and it tested accurate.
I put the thermometer on the stove, the damper is wide open, and the logs are flaming pretty
respectable.( the stove has been in use for at least 24 hours)After 45 mins the thermometer reads 250.
Thats it. I have 3 dry logs burning beautifully
i could fit maybe 1 more in but if left as is this would burn (with a flame) for 2 hours total ( all hardwoods) then
just pretty little red embers.
The stove pipe goes up 40 inches(approx) does a 30 degree angle for 20 inches than another 30 degree angle
to rite itself, then goes thru the ceiling to the second floor. I have a two story house each floor has approx 7.5 ft
ceilings with a 4 or 5 ft attic. The stove is 12 or 13 inches from the cement board wall so i have a heat shield.
Should i con-cider a damper in the flue? why are my burn time vs stove heat so much different than all you happy campers?
Thanks again .Hollis


When the air is "wide open" you lose a lot of heat. Once it is burning start closing the air in stages.

Second of all, if you can only fit 3 or 4 splits in there, you need to put in smaller splits.
 
This may have been covered already...but if you can only fit 3 logs, maybe they arent split small enough? Also, when you say "dry" do you mean no water on the wood, or cut split and seasoned for 2 years properly?
 
This wood was split 2 years ago and stored in a garage. each piece is about as big as your knee to a knee and a half thick
a piece bigger than a knee would be split in half some are smaller some not.
 
Hollis said:
This wood was split 2 years ago and stored in a garage. each piece is about as big as your knee to a knee and a half thick

Split them down so you can fit 7+ splits in there. Once you have a good fire going cut the air down in stages. You should be able to achieve 550+ temps if you have good wood. With good wood I can regularly get 600+ temps.
 
Hollis said:
do you use a damper in your stove pipe?


I do. I only use it on occasions and it is only used once I have locked in a temp.
 
Hollis said:
maybe if i hook the stove pipe to the back instead of on top it could make the difference


Or, you can try smaller splits and cutting down the air supply in stages. If I left my air wide open I would not achieve high temps.
 
i have an eco fan on top that spins and moves air along with its established convection current and a fan at the other end of the room at the bottom of the stairwell aimed at the stove. my wife hates the fan on the floor and says it makes her cold and im sure the pets don't like it either so its rarely on. I'm convinced it helps pull more air from upstairs towards the stove where it all starts. we both like the fact the stove doesn't need electricity and is silent, well ,with a minimum amount of noise any way. im going to look for a smaller fan and one with a slow amount of air movement and try to replace the medium sized one on the floor. this should get the spouses approval. the wood is definately a major factor as mentioned and the amount of air going in the stove. wide open is great to get things rolling but wont get tems up. 1/4 open or fully shut is where i get the best results and longest burn. im not in the 500 club , but have been real close. next year ill hi it easily with some different woods other than oak thats drying as i type. ive heated 2 seasons so far and still am getting to know this stove.it has lots of potential and was chosen to get away from having a blower just incase we have a power outage. so i say no to the blower . you will figure it out , it takes time but is time well spent. pete
 
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