Hearthstone Heritage 8022 Airflow

[hamsey]

After 3 years of problem free burning I am having a serious issue with my stove. Best way to describe it is the fire gets snuffed out as soon I close the side or front door. Happens with bio bricks also so it's not a wood issue. Talked to Hearthstone and the tech thinks my draft is too strong. Suggested changing the door gaskets. Did the dollar bill test but he does not think that is an accurate way of checking the gasket. Talked to my sweep and he suggested blocking off half of the outside air intake with some tape, did that and the problem gets worst to the point that I cannot get a reload fire going. Removed the tape to get some air to the fire but it seems that the stove is not getting any air. Just snuffs out even after leaving the door open for 25 minutes with wood going great plenty of flames wood all checked no hissing or sizzling clean glass (happens with blocks also). Wife is having the same problem. So I am at a loss. Going to check the OAK and make sure there is no blockage. Not sure what else to check and no one answering the phone at Hearthstone.

Anyone know the airflow on the Heritage so I can check if there is a blockage in the stove? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[Highbeam]

Too strong of draft has nothing to do with a fire snuffing when you close the door. Your problem is some sort of blockage between the firebox and the air inlet. I ran a 2006 model heritage for 30 cords over about 7 years.

Do you have an outside air kit connected to the stove? Or is the stove just setting on the hearth only connected to the chimney?

 

[hamsey]

Outside air kit. Checked the intake vent on the outside of the house for a blockage when taping it off. It was clean. I removed the tape when I discovered it made it worst. Will check the pipe from the stove to the intake vent when I get home tonight.

Chimney was swept middle of October. Nothing but powder. Baffle (non OEM) was replaced when chimney was done and it had developed a crack from the front to back. Ordered a new baffle (OEM) and waiting for it to come in. Don't think the baffle has anything to do the this issue. I do remember having this problem towards the end of the burning season last year. Nowhere near as bad as it is now which seems to be getting worst. I post after inspecting the OAK.

 

[webby3650]

The baffle was replaced after the chimney was swept? I would pull the pipe up and make sure the flue collar isn’t full of creosote/ash/birds. It’s been a bad year for bird nests.

 

[webby3650]

Did you remove the entire secondary air manifold when you replaced the baffle?

 

[hamsey]

I did not replace the baffle. My sweep did when he did the chimney. Stove is getting plenty of outside air. The snuffing if more noticeable on the left side of the stove. Same side as the OAK, front door latch and side door. Took a good look at the gasket on the side door and it appears there is 3 or 4 inch section of gasket missing. Not sure why but when I slide a screwdriver along it there is definitely a metallic sound. Need to get some gasket tomorrow. Still not sure if that is the problem but needs to be replaced.

Will get a better look at the top of the stove when I remove the baffle


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[webby3650]

All of these issues you are looking into, and have been mentioned by hearthstone would only make the fire burn more aggressively not snuff it out. Can you see the chimney cap from the ground?

 

[webby3650]

If the baffle assembly is removed, the upright air channel in the back of the stove falls over. If that happens any creosote and ash from either the floor or that was above the baffle when it was dropped, will fill the secondary air passage. It could be clogged there. It’s a terrible design!

 

[Highbeam]

Just unhook the oak pipe from the stove. That will limit your area of concern to between the oak inlet and the air wash.

 

[hamsey]

Secondary air manifold was definitely not removed when he replaced the baffle. I'm guessing what Hearthstone is calling the "secondary air plenum" is what you are calling the "secondary air manifold". Will have to take a look and see if it is easily removed. Kinda makes sense seeing how we cannot get the lights going anymore.

One way that I am able to get secondaries some times not all the time is damper the air, open the side door for 5-10 minutes and then closing the door. Not how it's supposed to be done but it does work sometimes. Need to get to work so I'll take what I can get.

Could the manifold (plenum) get clogged with fly ash? I have burned plenty of bio bricks (pallet/year) for the first three years waiting for my wood to be seasoned properly. Had to clear the ash every few days because of how much ash those bricks produce.

I'm not familiar with the design but can the manifold be cleaned without removing it?

 

[webby3650]

It wouldn’t get clogged up unless it had been pulled apart.

 

[hamsey]

Shut the stove down Sunday. Got the manifold down but I could not get it out of the stove. Took a look at it and it does not appear full of creosote. Looks clean and rusty. Same with the rear exhaust pipe. There is a tapered tube at the back of the firebox that I believe is the fresh air that feeds the manifold. Does the manifold get fresh air? I do not know how the airflow is supposed to work but when I put my hand down where it rest and I can feel fresh air.

Put a lit match in front of the doghouse and the flame flickered a bit. Did not get blown out. Not sure how much air is supposed to be going through it. Going to get a little compressor and blow out the secondary air pipes. Best I can do until I figure out how to remove the manifold from the firebox.

Almost seems like it reverted back to a smoke dragon. No secondaries and smoldering with plenty of smoke coming from the chimney. Maybe a draft issue? Somehow went from too much draft to none! I did have the sweep add a cap to the furnace flue but this issue had been going on before that so I do not think it is related.

Other thing I noticed is that the stove does not get as hot as it use to. Before it would run 400-500* now it struggles to get to 400*. Usually around 350*

Going to do the door gaskets tomorrow.

Any other suggestions? Really at a loss!

 

[webby3650]

The upright channel in the rear of the stove feeds the manifold air. The manifold will not be filled with anything, where the channel sits on the floor of the stove is where stuff can fall in and plug it up. Unless the baffle had been removed previously that wouldn’t be the case. Stuff can only fall in there if the channel is removed.

 

[hamsey]

I usually replace the baffle every year when I get the chimney swept. Twice a season when I tried the non OEM baffle. Those just crack and crumble. There was some ash where the channel sits on the floor. I vacuumed that area and did feel air coming from it. Didn't change anything, Going to check the secondary tube holes for blockage and blow them out.

 

[Highbeam]

The baffle gets replaced without removing the secondary manifold or riser. I don’t think anything is wrong with the stove. Replacing leaky gaskets will just slow down the burn.

Did you verify that the chimney screen is clean? Those things plug quickly.

 

[webby3650]

I usually replace the baffle every year when I get the chimney swept. Twice a season when I tried the non OEM baffle. Those just crack and crumble. There was some ash where the channel sits on the floor. I vacuumed that area and did feel air coming from it. Didn't change anything, Going to check the secondary tube holes for blockage and blow them out.

Every year? I’ve never heard of such a thing!

 

[hamsey]

I'll take a look at the cap also. Yes, every year! Gets all pitted. Sometimes cracked. Don't want to have to replace it in the middle of the season. Preventive maintenance. OCD.

 

[hamsey]

Cap is dirty but not seeing any blockage.

Replaced the side door gasket. No change other than it is harder to shut the door.

This wood I am burning is bigger than what I used to burn. Maybe this has something to do it with.

Just at a complete loss.

 

[Highbeam]

If your cap is clear then we’re back to poor fuel quality. Wet wood, you claimed at the beginning that your fuel is dry but it’s a cheap experiment to buy a load of kiln dried lumber or firewood and give it a shot. Wet wood needs more air and smaller splits well spaced to burn.

Hearthstones are easy breathers. Verify that the intake control is fully open and slide it back and forth to verify that it’s still properly hooked up.

 

[hamsey]

Going to pick up some bio bricks instead of the gas station stuff. Burned that before and it sizzled. Need to make sure it is dry. I already did this once this year but not absolutely sure I had problems so I will pay better attention this time. Need to wait until the weekend to do so.

I have been reading up on others having this issue and came across a couple of posts about the wood being no bigger than 4x4. I cut mine bigger 5x5 6x6 to get longer burn times than the 3-4 hours that I normally got. Some pieces are even bigger so I need to go back and re split and check MC.

Still want to install a chimney draft monitor similar to this: https://www.hearth.com/talk/posts/1836129/. Just need to figure out the parts.

 

[hamsey]

One thing I forgot to mention is when I had the manifold off and shook it I was getting what looked looked like black sand coming out of a hole in the back of the tube that the baffle connect to. Guessing it's creosote. It was coming out at a pretty good pace.

 

[hamsey]

Saga continues. Last night I split a 3" round MC measured 17.2. Put in the overnight load with the front door open and it ran normal. This mornings load same wood as last night this time with the side door open and it struggles to stay lit when I close the side door. Eventually recovered with opening and closing the side door. It does off gas with the flames on top of the wood but no secondaries. Last night secondaries and did not have to keep opening and closing the door.

Reason for using the side door versus the front door is I read about issues with the front door not being fixable when the hinge wear out so I am trying to minimize its use.

Bought some bricks to try out over the weekend to definitely rule out the wood being the problem.

 

[hamsey]

Update in case others might have issues. Just got done cleaning the stove and discovered what I thought was a crack in one of the rear stones. Looking at it closer it is the seam between stones. Right side of stove you can barely make out the seam. Left side very visible. My guess is that air is being sucked in from the gap on the left side of the stove where the fire gets snuffed out.

Going to be replacing glass and gaskets after the season guess stone repair is added to the list.

Not a wood issue after all. Never would have guessed it!


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[SpaceBus]

If you are getting too much air, the stove would burn much hotter and faster. Have you looked up the chimney?

 

[hamsey]

The answer to everything is 42


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