Have the Jotul Rockland in the garage, starting installation project today

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

mattring

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 18, 2009
6
Southeastern WI
Well we finally got it home and I've added a new project to my list. As we have a split stone natural fireplace we opted to not purchase the Jotul surround which wouldn't be able to fit flush with the fireplace face. I'm planning to fabricate a surround out of 22g steel to fill the opening between the insert and the existing opening and high temp. caulk around. Our hearth is raised 4.5 inches above the fireplace floor and I had planned to use a couple 4.25" firebricks to make up the difference. The insert has leveler bolts located at the rear and I was wondering if placing bricks beneath the levelers and having the front edge of the stove resting on the hearth would provide enough support or if I should raise the entire fireplace floor? I will be cleaning the chimney and removing the damper this morning and contemplating the floor issue any advise or opinions appreciated. Also I'll be lining the 12"X12"X15' chimney with 6" SS Flex and capping off the top. Would there be any benefit to sealing off the damper around the liner? I know it will make the connection a little more difficult and not sure if would be worth the trouble. I've attached some pics of the existing fireplace. Many more to follow! Thanks Much
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Have the Jotul Rockland in the garage, starting installation project today
    IMG_fireplace0001.jpg
    114.7 KB · Views: 337
Do a search on block off plates and you should be able to find at least a days worth of reading. I for one am convinced that it is the one thing you can do to make the biggest difference in the heat output of your stove. I think it is well worth the effort.
 
This is a heavy unit. It could be a real PITA if the rear leveler foot gets hung up on a brick. To make the installation (and later servicing) easier, consider having a sheet of stiff metal on the bricks. That will allow the unit to slide in (and out) nicely.
 
What do you folks think about the height issue. Haven't broke the unit out of the crate yet but I'm assuming the leveler bolts won't let me make up the full 4.5". Can I use a longer bolt or do you think it would be better to raise the floor.


Btw... Just finished cleaning chimney now on to repairing a couple cracks in the crown then running the liner down. Thinking about running it all the way to the floor and trimming off once the unit is opened up and sitting in the living room so I can get exact measurements. Is the flex liner hard to cut? Or anything else I should consider? I'd like to finish the aerial work today as the weather is still beautiful here (54 degrees) but that won't last long.
 
I like the idea of using a steel sheet on top of the bricks. If I go this route do you think I can use a standard concrete block or should I stick with the firebrick, huge cost difference involved here.
 
Concrete is not combustible. It should work fine and give good support. I also have a sheet of metal on hand to cover the hearth during installation. It lets the stove slide in easier without marring the hearth.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.