Harman Exception F200

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Flyer54

New Member
Aug 26, 2024
9
Pennsylvania
My Harman Exception F200 kept overfiring this past year. Quite scary. For some reason something changed from the previous year when it worked perfectly. I replaced all the gaskets and confirmed good and tight seals. I replaced the afterburner. I am wondering if it is an issue with the draft control but can't seem to access it to see if something is not connected. What am I missing? Can someone help me?
 
More details are needed, how tall is your chimney? Did you have wet wood previously and dry wood now? Explain your fire starting procedure.
 
Thanks for your reply. The chimnery flu is about 20 feet. The wood is very dry, being kept in a warehouse for years before burning. Starting proceedure is, starting the fire with kindling, adding wood, and then waiting for stove to get up to 350-400. At that temperature closing the damper, wait for afterburner to ignite, and finally closing the draft to the appropriate level in order to maintain a burning temperature of about 600. I have been doing this routine since 2011 and had no problems until this past Fall of 2023 when I just could not keep the temperature down without pretty closing down the draft control.
 
Sounds like there might be an air leak. Or, the bypass may not be fully closing. This might be due to warpage of the damper. Just spitballing here for possible areas to check. When was the afterburner replaced?
 
Not sure what the combustion pack is. If it is the afterburner, it was replaced last year. I replaced all the gaskets, the afterburner, checked the seals on the damper door and the damper frame. All seem to be tight.
 
What do you classify as overfiring?
Where do you measure the temperature?
 
Not sure what the combustion pack is. If it is the afterburner, it was replaced last year. I replaced all the gaskets, the afterburner, checked the seals on the damper door and the damper frame. All seem to be tight.
Yes, the afterburner. VC calls it by a different name, I changed my posting after recalling this. It sounds like the issue may be related to the rebuild if the problems started afterward. Have you pulled the afterburner hood to make sure that nothing has broken down in the afterburner package?
 
Yes, the afterburner. VC calls it by a different name, I changed my posting after recalling this. It sounds like the issue may be related to the rebuild if the problems started afterward. Have you pulled the afterburner hood to make sure that nothing has broken down in the afterburner package?
Thanks for clarifying. Yes, I did pull the afterburner hood and nothing appears to be broken, cracked. The glass window in the afterburer hood was replaced a couple of years ago and appears to be in good order.
 
Sounds like there might be an air leak. Or, the bypass may not be fully closing. This might be due to warpage of the damper. Just spitballing here for possible areas to check. When was the afterburner replaced?
Yes, I get the spitballing. I appreciate it Well I put in a new afterburner last year when I was having this issue. The weldment/hood was replaced 3 years ago. I can't find any warpage in the damper frame or damper lid itself. I clean the stove every year and pust the damper frame up tight to the ceiling of the stove wit a small bottle jack, then putting the bolts in. I have done anything and everything I can think that is why I looking to others for some wisdom on the issue.
 
Overfiring is when it climbes to 900 and more. I measure on the front of the stove next to the door with a magnetically attached, circular gauge.
Could it be possible that my draft is not closing adequately? I wanted to check that but there is no way that I can to get at the linkage on the draft control. I took the blower off to see if I can get inside the area with the draft slides but can't seem to get beyond the first link on the draft contral bar.
 
Could it be possible that my draft is not closing adequately? I wanted to check that but there is no way that I can to get at the linkage on the draft control. I took the blower off to see if I can get inside the area with the draft slides but can't seem to get beyond the first link on the draft contral bar.
Yes, if the flue system did not change, it is likely that it gets too much air. If there are no leaks from gaskets or cracks, then the air inlet(s) could not close properly.
 
No, unfortunately not.
 
Harmans are made back in PA. bholler probably has serviced more here than anyone and may have some insight. It's uncommon for an air control to fail, but given the remote linkage, it's possible that it's not closing completely.
 
That is what I thought. Thanks for your klnd help!
Did you check the gaskets with a dollar bill? Check all around the stove for cracks? Check the glass gasket?
 
Flyer54, were the replacement gaskets all OEM, factory replacements or were some 3d party replacements? A non-OEM door gasket can leak badly even when making good contact if it is the wrong density or construction.