Greenwood 100 Newbie

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danatt

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 20, 2008
7
CT Shoreline
Hi there. Happy Holidays everyone.

I recently installed a Greenwood 100 and have been running it for a few weeks. I’ve been reading this forum a bit, and it seems like every discussion about GW’s inevitably requires a description of the system. So here it is, upfront:

Location:
- Detached garage, ~ 35’ from the house (1924 Four-Square, ~ 2300 sq.ft.)
GW loop:
- 1” PEX, total round-trip distance ~ 220’
- (2x20’ in garage + 2x35’ Flexsul underground + 2x25’ in crawl space + 2x30’ in basement)
System Configuration:
- No heat exchanger – GW loop is tied directly into central heating system plumbing
- Input from GW loop in parallel with return piping from zones in house
- Return to GW loop in parallel with supply piping to zones in house
- Indirect DHW tank (Weil McClain Gold Plus 60, 46 gal capacity) fed from central heating system
- Cast iron radiators in house.
Temperature gauges:
- on GW100
- on supply pipe from GW loop right before combining with central heating system plumbing
- in oil burner (Weil McClain P-WG0-4, 145k BTU/hr)
- on return pipe to GW loop right as it leaves central heating system plumbing

I’m still on the learning curve with this thing. I have a few issues and observations that I’m hoping to get some feedback on here.
1.) Burn time seems way too short. My wife and I find ourselves reloading about every 3 hrs when steadily heating. I think this may because we have been burning primarily Butternut, which is not very dense and therefore has low heat content. In general the logs are large – many sized to be able to just fit through the door. But I’m not sure if the Butternut is the only reason, or if something else isn’t right.
2.) I’m typically losing about 15 degrees in the loop from the GW to the input of the central heating system. The temperature drops about another 25 degrees (give or take 15 degrees, depending on how much the zones are calling for heat) in the system before the water exits to return to the GW. So, during typical burn periods we’ll be at 180 coming out of the GW, 165 coming in to the system, and 140 returning to the GW. This means that the zones are also seeing typically 140 which seems a little low for ideal heating to me. I'm working (a little bit at a time) on insulting the sections of exposed PEX with in the loop with standard foam pipe insulation to try to improve this.
3.) Smoke out of the stack seems minimal. Usually we only see smoke for a few minutes (if at all) after adding new wood. I’ve had a few “over-load” situations. The stack isn’t shy about letting you know when you load too much wood, as it will smoke like crazy. The rest of the time all you see is wavy hot vapors.
4.) It seems like there is a little bit of creosote build-up on the heat exchanger pipes inside the GW. But nothing too crazy. I usually just scrape at it with a tool. I think I need to get a good boiler brush to get at it better. I’m not sure how much might be building up down around the back and on the top side of the pipes. Is there any good information on how necessary it is to clean that, and the best way to do it?

I look forward to any information the more experienced members of this forum might be able to share. Thanks very much, in advance.
 
I'm no expert on anything, let alone plumbing/HVAC. But I did make a couple of observations:

1)If your wife can lift a round of this wood which is big enough to just fit through the door, either
your wife is a retired East German weight lifter
or, more likely, this wood is not quality hardwood
try switching to some oak, hard maple, hickory, and see if that helps the load intervals. 3 hours is NOT right, and obviousy not acceptable,

2)I thought you said you had radiant heat. If so, seems like 140* should be warm enough. Do you have outside reset?

3)1" PEX sounds small. I used CB's ThermaPEX, which I believe is 1 1/2(?) I would definitly recomend insulating everything that is exposed.

4)I don't know enough about plumbing boilers to know better, but I run my GW open, with a 20-Plate HX. Someone else here can help you fine-tune your plumbing.

Welcome aboard!

Jimbo
 
Sounds like it's working... trying some good dry hardwood in it may extend your burn times. The 1 inch does sound small. I hope you don't get jammed up when you start loading good hardwood into it. Don't worry about it, just put the wood to it and if it works, be happy.

Know a dealer that just bought one back and put it in the warehouse... know anybody looking for one, it's had about two cord of wood put through it. I don't think it's going to be full price, used... now I am wishing I'd waited, and not... I like the New Yorker on coal. It heats like nobodies' business with wood in it, but it is slightly undersized for my apartment building, so the burn times are about 4 hours between loading once I get a bed of coals established.

I'd been the dealer, I'd have insisted the solid fuel guy pipe it up with some pipe where it would get some traction and be able to work. Like hooking a team of draft horses to a twitch of logs with a rope and then complaining that they can't pull worth a darn.
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
I'm no expert on anything, let alone plumbing/HVAC. But I did make a couple of observations:

1)If your wife can lift a round of this wood which is big enough to just fit through the door, either
your wife is a retired East German weight lifter
or, more likely, this wood is not quality hardwood
try switching to some oak, hard maple, hickory, and see if that helps the load intervals. 3 hours is NOT right, and obviousy not acceptable,

Actually, she doesn't lift the really big ones. But the latter is definitely true. The Butternut is not quality hardwood.

ISeeDeadBTUs said:
2)I thought you said you had radiant heat. If so, seems like 140* should be warm enough. Do you have outside reset?
Nope. Cast iron radiators. Sorry, but I'm not following - what is "outside reset"?
 
I think I read that you lose about 20% efficeincy with dirty heat exchanger tubes. But mine are always pretty dirty so can't really say. i agree it sounds more like a wood issue.
 
I've heard that too. So what's the best way to clean the heat exchanger tubes inside the GW. And, what about getting at them where they go down in back? Anybody have any good suggestions for that?
 
I've never seen my tubes as clean as after the overheat 'incident'. All the accumlation on the tubes glowed ontill it disintegrated. No amount of scraping was ever able to get them as clean as that!

All from running the GW dry with a load of wood. But, as they say, do NOT try this at home!! :wow:
 
danatt said:
I've heard that too. So what's the best way to clean the heat exchanger tubes inside the GW. And, what about getting at them where they go down in back? Anybody have any good suggestions for that?


Greenwood sells a kit for around 200 bucks. The stuff in that kit is hardly worth the money but in order to clean the tubes in the back you will need it. You have to pull the side panel off to get to them. If/when you do this make absoloutley sure the panel is completely sealed when you re-install or you will risk overheating especially if you use a draft inducer (i found out the hard way). I think you could use a wire brush but the tools in this kit seem to work well for me.
 
Still Smokin’ said:
danatt said:
I've heard that too. So what's the best way to clean the heat exchanger tubes inside the GW. And, what about getting at them where they go down in back? Anybody have any good suggestions for that?


Greenwood sells a kit for around 200 bucks. The stuff in that kit is hardly worth the money but in order to clean the tubes in the back you will need it. You have to pull the side panel off to get to them. If/when you do this make absoloutley sure the panel is completely sealed when you re-install or you will risk overheating especially if you use a draft inducer (i found out the hard way). I think you could use a wire brush but the tools in this kit seem to work well for me.

Any way we can get a picture of the contents of the kit?
 
I will attempt to post pics. within the next day or so. Things are pretty busy with the holidays.
 
tigermaple said:
Here are some picts i found on the internet:

(broken link removed)

This is the kit I have,except mine did not include the nice wire brush. That strip of insulation is a must have, unless you have a lot more patience than I do. Too bad these aren't more like the Seton with the split side panel......
 
henfruit said:
have the side panel cut down and add a filler piece to attach the two side pieces to.

Are you suggesting making an access panel? After reading that bulletin with the intstructions for cleaning the manifold, it seems like an access panel should have been part of the original design.

As far as brushes are concerned, check this out...

(broken link removed to http://www.schaeferbrush.com/_fileCabinet/Flue_Boiler_Long_Handle_Tube_Brushes_Section_2.pdf)

I never realized there could be so many different types of boiler brushes. And, if one of the 200 or so choices there doesn't meet your meets, they will make a custom brush to your specifications. Go figure.
 
OK. I just checked out the Maine Wood Boilers website page on the Seton boiler.
(broken link removed to http://www.mainewoodfurnaces.com/Seton.shtml)

It looks like that furnace is the same exact design as the Greenwood (with the exception of the side panels which we've been discussing, and perhaps other detail features). I'm curious as to the history here. According to the webpage on the Seton, the design is more than 20 years old. My guess is that means it pre-dates the Greenwood? Is the GW a copy of this thing? So how many other units are out there based on this same design?
 
as i far as i know itis the same.fred seton had some sort of a deal with green wood that went sour? seton has made a few changes, as has green wood but they are still basiclly the same stove boiler.there are a couple of others out there adobe and green fire both by the same person. who has a bad reputation because of the quality of his workmenship of the product.
 
It seems to me you hae a big heat loss between GW and house. I have about 60' of 1 " pex and when the zones are satisfied and there is now hot water being used I have return temps that are only6 degrees cooler than the original supply temp.If I have zones calling for heat that number may be 12 to 15 degrees different and possibly 20 degrees if the amtrol hot water maker is warming up the well water. I don't know if you are not getting enough flow, are poorly insulated under ground or what but you are giving away a bunch of heat somewhere.

Merry Christmas everyone!!
Steve
 
Mine is hooked direct like yours. I'm heating quite a bit of space with all hardwood. Big, small and in between, Dry, green and in between.
Don't hesitate to ask for advice or even send a PM.
 
Fred Seton designed his boiler and it has been around for 20+ years. He ahs made some improvements and now the "Next Generation" is being manufactured by Bethel Engineering. Fred used to sell his boiler plans and a set was purchased and GW copied his plans and now make the GW. They got the plans but not the engineering that Fred put into it.
 
danatt said:
OK. I just checked out the Maine Wood Boilers website page on the Seton boiler.
(broken link removed to http://www.mainewoodfurnaces.com/Seton.shtml)

It looks like that furnace is the same exact design as the Greenwood (with the exception of the side panels which we've been discussing, and perhaps other detail features). I'm curious as to the history here. According to the webpage on the Seton, the design is more than 20 years old. My guess is that means it pre-dates the Greenwood? Is the GW a copy of this thing? So how many other units are out there based on this same design?

Adobe Boiler is another copy served up by Phillip Dougherty in Maine. Made as cheaply as the owner possibly could with absolutely no customer service. Adobe website now down for the 3rd or 4th time. STAY AWAY from anything to do with (broken link removed) , (broken link removed) , shop.enterpriseboiler.com , (broken link removed) , (broken link removed) .
 
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