Going from a VC Vigilant to Hearthstone Phoenix

[JohnCusick]

Hi All -
New here and boy am I thankful for a resource like this.
About us: My family & I live in a post & beam structure, approx 1800 Sf in size that was converted to a residence. We have been heating it comfortably with an 1980 vintage Vigilant. The stove served the home for 27 yeards and we just moved in two years ago

Well due to the age of the stove & other circumstances (poorly maintained) we are retiring that stove and we just purchased a used 8 yr old Phoenix.
This stove has a 6" flue outlet and the current configuration that served the Vigilant is 8";
It's exact detail is:
A 20' verticle run from stovetop to flue cap, made up of 8' of single wall pipe up to a ceiling thimble where it changes to a 'Hart & Cooley' Staineless chinmney that runs 4' through an attic and another 6' outside the roof plane.

Questions -
Can I run 6" single wall out of the stove & up to the ceiling thimble and transition it at that point to 8"?
Is there any significant advantage to using Dbl wall pipe below the ceiling given that there are NO clearance constraints.

Thanks

John

 

[Henz]

Your gonna have to get some of the techy gues to answer this..I hope that you bought a big enough stove that will heat that airspace..Going down to a 6" pipe you wont get nearly the draw as the 8" in my opinion...

 

[JohnCusick]

Thanks. I'll sit tight.

 

[struggle]

We went from a vintage 1985 Vigilant to a 2006 Mansfield mide winter last year. The difference is huge between the two as for the Mansfield being way better in all aspects.

Dropping a single wall down inside your existing chimney is possible if that is what you are saying but wether or not it is code compliant others will know better.

Going to a 6" will most likely increase draft. At least it did when we went to a 5.5" liner as as we could not do a 6" into the existing chimney (clay tile 8X8). Our draft is border line to strong even with a dampner in place.

 

[JohnCusick]

Hi- I'm not thinking of using any single wall inside my existing run.
I'd like to now run 6 inch stovepipe from the new stove up to the existing 8 inch ceiling thimble and then transition from 6 to 8 inch.

This is all so I don't have to rip out perfectly good SS chimney that is fastened to both the 2nd fl floor and roof framing, just to replace it with the same in 6"

Nice to hear of your good experience in going from the Vigilant to the Hearthstone.

Thanks

 

[Todd]

6" all the way up would be best, but it may work just fine with the 8". I would give it a try and see before spending the extra money for a new chimney. If it doesn't draft well you could just put a 6" liner down the existing 8" I think?

 

[n6crv]

Hello John, just went thru the same thing here. I did not want to remove all of the 8" triple wall chimney. There was 6" class A chimney pipe for 57.00 for 3' so I removed the 8" and ran the 6" in it's place. So it is like a class A inside a Class A. I have since this picture was taken replace the cap with one made for the 6".
Don'

 

[Gooserider]

Not sure about the 8" chimney, but if the replacement stove has a 6" stack, I believe you'd be within the cross section limits with the 8", so that shouldn't be a big deal. Assuming you can get the right adapter, the 6" double wall will, at least in theory give you a better draft than the single wall, and possibly less creosote, at a cost of somewhat less heat transfer into the room than you would get with 6" single wall.

Gooserider

 

[elkimmeg]

Code wise cross-sectional area ther is no problem going fro 6 to 8" and his chimney is considered within the building? That is, we are talking about a straight up short

there are many ways to run his connector pipe He could use a 6 to 8 fitted in the flue collar and run 8" the rest of the way

Run 6 '' to just below the ceiling box and use a 6 to 8" to make that connection This is a lot better situation than a direct connection in a exterior chimney into an 8/12 clay flue.

pessonally, unless your stove installation manual says there is a connector pipe limit. A straight up shot from the flue collar to the ceiling box being less than 8" i and
pipe clearance issues are not in consideration then why not use single wall 22 or 24 gage smoke pipe?

there are times when the simplest solution is the right one Why complicate it till we know it does not preform up to expectations ,its code compliant

Many here wish they had this god a setup in place.

Side note we are talking about Class A 8" chimney UL103 HT or HT 2100? IF the chimney is just plain UL 103 without the HT designation it cannot be used with a wood stove.

My first question after proof of proper Ul listing would be how old is that chimney.. Since 8" is already in place then why not replace the older stove with a modern 8" flue collar stove?

You know there are still some being manufactured?

 

[JohnCusick]

Hi folks -
To clarify some.
The original installation of the VC Vigilant was done in 1980 using a Hart Cooley chimney above the ceiling line and out through the roof as well as single wall 8" stovepipe below the ceiling and down to the stove. This was all 8" dia for the Vigilant.
Now we've pulled the 8" stovepipe out (as well as the vigilant), the 8" chimney remains.
The remaining label on the chimney says:
Hart & Cooley, Model D, Cat #8DP30, UL Listed 145A. Min clearance to combustibles 2"
The installation was originally done by the Building contractor who errected the post & Beam structure, working for the Architet who's studio it was to be. I ASSUME IT WAS ALL DONE CORRECTLY. It looks right, and has worked flawlessly for 27 years. We cleaned it 2x last heating season and I disassembled it from the cap down to the roof boot - all looked good.
So with this said, I think I'll tru plain old single wall 6" pipe out of the stove and transition it at the ceiling thimble to the 8" chimney components.
I'll just see how the stove works then.

Thanks ALl