Hi all. First post. Just picked up a 1983 year Grandpa Bear glass door model, has larger arched glass. Going to use in garage. Also have a 1976 Grandma bear at our camp. The glass door models have a gasket on the door unlike the solid door models. I was wondering if anyone knows the correct gasket size. The goove appears to be 3/4" wide. The deteriorated gasket in there appears to be at least 1/2" and I see 1/2 and 5/8 at tractor supply so will try one of those but just was just curious if anyone knew the correct size. Thanks.
Gasket size for Grandpa Bear glass door model.
- Thread starter CDBiker220
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
I believe everything readily available now is medium density gasket instead of the more compressible type yours had originally. 5/8 round works, and you can use a thicker cement base if you think need it.
Open doors and only close one on the gasket material. You can see the crush and contact between door and stove front.
With fire established, go around seal area with incense stick or shaken out match to see if smoke is drawn into seal area.
Open doors and only close one on the gasket material. You can see the crush and contact between door and stove front.
With fire established, go around seal area with incense stick or shaken out match to see if smoke is drawn into seal area.
I ended up picking up some 5/8" yesterday and I believe it will work perfect. I got tied up doing some fine tuning on door fitment after removing the old gasket, at first look there was a large gap between the doors and the stove face where they meet in the center (3/8"ish) and a small gap near the hinges (3/16"ish).
I found the flat head screws for the metal glass retainers were contacting the stove face so I counterbored the flat metal retainers so the screw heads were flush or slightly recessed. This allowed me to get close to an 3/16" gap the whole way around both doors (a bit more in the center still), but enough to get good compression on the 5/8" gasket. I'll install gasket tonight.
Also had to heat and bend the inside part of the arm that pulls the door closed, wasn't even contacting the metal "ramp" inside the door, now getting it to pull the door in snuggly. Everything looks like it should work nicely now. Thank you for the feedback that helps confirm what I'm using.
I found the flat head screws for the metal glass retainers were contacting the stove face so I counterbored the flat metal retainers so the screw heads were flush or slightly recessed. This allowed me to get close to an 3/16" gap the whole way around both doors (a bit more in the center still), but enough to get good compression on the 5/8" gasket. I'll install gasket tonight.
Also had to heat and bend the inside part of the arm that pulls the door closed, wasn't even contacting the metal "ramp" inside the door, now getting it to pull the door in snuggly. Everything looks like it should work nicely now. Thank you for the feedback that helps confirm what I'm using.
The latch rod is bent correctly when the handles match when latched. About 10 and 2 o’clock.
Similar threads
